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WELCOME TO PARIS
BIENVENUE PARIS
On ones first or perhaps even second visit to Paris, its hard not to be seduced by the citys most famous sights: the monumental avenues such as the Champs-Elyses, which links the Arc de Triomphe and the Place de la Concorde; the Eiffel Tower; Notre-Dame; Place des Vosges. Ive lived here all my life, and riding my bicycle across any one of the Seines bridges still makes my heart swell.
But what I think of most when I wander my hometown is food: Saint-Germain-des-Prs, to me, means macarons from Pierre Herm and Les Halles roast chicken from the Champeaux brasserie. The Tuileries, bordered on the north by rue de Rivoli, bring to mind Angelina and thus hot chocolate, and the cafs near Porte Dauphine, where I spent my student years, evoke the satisfying croque-madame, the velvety yolk dripping down the crust of the bread. Barbs seduces with couscous; Belleville comforts with Chinese rice soup. From humble stews to sophisticated pastries, vibrant greens to oozy cheeses, the classic to the creative, the familiar to the exoticits all here, waiting for you to hop off at the closest metro station, push open a door, and walk in.
There are so many tasty ways a day can unfold in Paris. Will it begin with a flaky croissant dipped in caf au lait, or a slice of rye and red miso bread from the citys most innovative baker? At lunch, will you close your eyes in bliss at the first forkful of lettuce, dressed in the perfect bistro vinaigrette? Or will you opt for a Kurdish pizza from a sandwich shack at Faubourg-Saint-Denis?
Later in the afternoon, will you stop for black tea with Earl Grey madeleines, or mint tea at the Great Mosque, with orange blossom and date cookies? Next, your Parisian friends may invite you for a predinner drink and surprise you with a classy, timeless cocktail, like a French 75, and the gratined mussels they whipped up like its nothing.
Finally, youll end the day at a favorite bistro for a soul-warming pot-au-feu, unless you try that exciting new restaurant nobody knows about (yet) where youll have the best trout. And maybe some profiteroles, if theres room.
Paris is a multifaceted city, with a multitude of cultures and flavors pulsing through its streets. Ive captured my favorite recipes here, along with the stories that give them life, to create a snapshot of my city todayto bring a little bit of Paris into your home, and to tide you over between visits.
On y va?
Find a full directory of the places mentioned, variations for special diets, menus, behind-the-scenes videos, and other free bonuses at tastingpariscookbook.com.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF
PARISIAN CUISINE
Paris was always destined to become an exceptional city for food and dining.
In Roman times, and until the fourth century, Paris was called Lutetia. Its position on the Seine, and the proximity of two additional rivers, allowed the town to thrive and grow. The islets at the citys heartof which le de la Cit and le Saint-Louis remainmade it easy to cross the river, aiding commerce.
A vast vineyardthe largest in France until the nineteenth centuryenriched the landscape, so Parisians drank local wine and cooked with vinegar. The rich wetlands were ideal for growing produce, and marachers carted in their fresh salads, herbs, and vegetables daily. Further out, a vast expanse of land was devoted to grain, which was milled and then baked into bread. Easy access to woods and pastures kept the city fed with meat, wild or farmed, and dairy products.
Parisians were self-sufficient, reveling in their unique culinary setting. But the city was also an exceptional hub of power and wealth, and the elite, eager to eat delicacies from other French provinces and far beyond, imported themfirst by boat, then through a well-developed road system, and eventually via the railroad. This openness to new and sometimes foreign flavors eventually trickled down to all classes, becoming a notable trait of Parisian cuisine.
Paris is also the birthplace of the restaurant as we know it. In the late eighteenth century, as noble families fled the city in the aftermath of the French Revolution, they left their kitchen staff behind. These highly trained cooks had always practiced their craft in private settings, serving food la franaise: multiple preparations served all at once to form a ridiculously bountiful spread. They cast this outdated model aside and opened novel establishmentsthe first restaurantswhere anyone could come in and compose a meal, dish by dish, off a menu. Around the same time, pastry chefs and