King - Cool couture: construction secrets for runway style

Copyright 2008 Kenneth D. King

All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyrights hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any meansgraphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping of information on storage and retrieval systemswithout the written permission of the publisher.

Due to differing conditions, materials, and skill levels, the publisher and various manufacturers disclaim any liability for unsatisfactory results or injury due to improper use of tools, materials, or information in this publication.

First published in the United States of America by Creative Publishing international, Inc., a member of
Quayside Publishing Group
400 First Avenue North
Suite 300
Minneapolis, MN 55401
1-800-328-3895
www.creativepub.com

ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-389-8
ISBN-10: 1-58923-389-1

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Digital edition: 978-1-61673-366-7

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
King, Kenneth D.
Cool couture : construction secrets for runway style /
Kenneth D. King.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-58923-389-8
1. Machine sewing. 2. Dressmaking. 3. House furnishings.
I. Title.

TT713.K54 2008
646.2--dc22

2008022228

Technical Editor: Carol Spier
Copy Editor: Karen Levy
Proofreader: Jennifer Bright Reich
Book & Cover Design: Kathie Alexander
Page Layout: Kathie Alexander
Photographs: Images on pages ,
by Jack Deutsch Photography;
Images on pages (top) by Glenn Scott Photography

Printed in Singapore

KENNETH D. KING

Cool couture

CONSTRUCTION SECRETS
FOR RUNWAY STYLE

MY BAG OF TRICKS

CHAPTER 1
CHOOSING FABRICS

CHAPTER 2
EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS

CHAPTER 3
EDGE AND SEAM FINISHES

CHAPTER 4
PIPING

CHAPTER 5
POCKETS AND BUTTONHOLES

CHAPTER 6
THE TAILORED SHOULDER

CHAPTER 7
DESIGNER EMBELLISHMENTS

Some of my customers ask me, Why are you writing a book? Aside from the obvious answer (because some nice people will give me money for it), writing gives me a chance to talk to an audience that speaks the same language of sewingan audience that, like me, considers sewing a passion. Besides, nobody at the parties I go to understands my sewing jokes!

For those of you who dont know much about me, I started sewing when I was young and worked in window display before becoming a designer. Display was useful training, because a good display person has to have a working knowledge of a broad range of subjects. This training taught me to bring together information from different disciplines to achieve a desired result.

I have little formal sewing training beyond pattern drafting, which I learned from a French-trained teacher. All my sewing skills are self-taught. In certain respects, this was beneficial, because I was just ignorant enough of the facts to do what I wanted. This lack of formal training led me to find some rather unorthodox solutions to construction problems.

I am one of the fortunate few who is able to make a livelihood from a vocation that is also a passion. Because I am deeply interested in what I doand because I sell to a very demanding marketI need to create superbly finished and well-performing products that also generate a profit. This fact is most important, and I have learned to conceive techniques that will give me the proper finish while also making good use of my time.

There are techniques in this book that are shown in my first book, but there are new ways that Ive learned to approach many of them since it was published, so Ive updated them here. Also included are some new tricks and techniques that Ive discovered in the past several years. Its a pleasure to revisit the past and also to share with all of my readers the experience Ive gained since the first book came out. These techniques have many applications for everyone who sews. With a little practice and some creative thinking, you will be able to make some pieces that will amaze you!

In the sewing literature available today, there is an emphasis on shortcuts and other time-saving procedures. Some of them are dandy, but some produce results that look like you were trying to save time or money! I believe its better to spend a bit more time with a project and achieve something very special, rather than try to save time or money by sewing running shorts and T-shirts. Let the factories that can do that kind of work more cost-effectively make those things. Extra time in todays hectic world is indeed a luxury. When taking time for sewing, make that luxury count!

This book is not project-oriented. Its devoted to techniques. One reason for this is that I regard techniques as tools, or what I refer to as my bag of tricks. All the information on each subject is arranged in a separate section. So, if your interest is sewing with velvet, for example, youll find all my tricks for working with velvet in one place. Although I hope you will just sit down and read through the book, from cover to cover (not taking nourishment or sleep until you finish because you are so fascinated with the information), I know this expectation is not realistic. A very wise woman once told me that its not necessary to carry all you need to know in your head, you only have to know where to get your hands on the information when you need it. Familiarize yourself with the book (and look at the cool pictures!), and then refer to it when you need it.

You will also notice that I often refer to the piece in the text rather than to the garment. These techniques need not be restricted to apparel sewing. You can also apply them to home decor and craft sewing. The same logic and concepts apply, whether youre sewing clothing, home furnishings, or crafts. My hope is that this book will make traveling across the sewing spectrum a more rewarding journey for you.

My wish is for this book to stimulate your sense of creativity and adventure. Dont be afraid to experiment with my techniques. By getting creative, you can invent your own ways of doing things. In sewing there are no absolutes.

I hope to meet you, as I teach and travel, and hear how these techniques directed you to find your own creative solutions to new sewing challenges. Until then, enjoy this book!

The choice of fashion fabric is an entirely personal decision. If a fabric speaks to you, ignore family and friends, and even your own better judgment, and just use it. Here are some words of wisdom on some difficult fabrics.