Jessica Pile - Fashion Embroidery: Embroidery Techniques and Inspiration for Haute-Couture Clothing

Embroidery is open to interpretation. As I have mentioned in throughout this book, there are many variations of traditional techniques. The techniques I have written about are in a style that I have developed for myself; others will have variations on the techniques I have written about, so dont be afraid to try different methods. It is good to feel comfortable with the way you execute your embroidery, and as long as you can you can achieve the same outcome, that is ok.

Throughout my career I have accumulated embroidery knowledge from my working life at Hand & Lock. However, there are many fashion designers and companies out there who are constantly influencing and defining new rules for embroidery in fashion. Hopefully the following will give you an idea as to who to look out for.

HAND & LOCK: Traced back to 1767, Hand & Lock has embroidered for all the notable fashion house such as Christian Dior, Norman Hartnell and Hardy Amies, Burberry, Mary Katrantzou and Givenchy, as well as also serving emerging designers, interior designers, the Royal Forces and the Royal Family, costume designers for theatre, film, and television. It is truly an inspiring and influential company in the embroidery and fashion world.

MASION LESAGE: Based in Paris, Maison Lesage has served not only the couturiers in Paris for almost 100 years but also fashion houses all over the world. Founded by Albert and Marie-Louise Lesage they attracted the attention of Elsa Schiaparelli, who stayed a faithful customer for 44 years. Now owned by Chanel, Maison Lesage still makes embroidery of the highest quality.

JAMES MERRY: James Merry is a hand embroidery artist whose unique ideas have become widely recognised. He has made embroidery cool for the younger generation with his sportswear series, while also working with Bjork to create innovative and eye-catching headdresses. James merry certainly knows how to push the boundaries of embroidery.

MARIE SOPHIE LOCKHART: Based in the USA but originally from Paris, Marie Sophie Lockhart, also know as Lockhart embroidery, is at the cutting edge of contemporary stitching. Marie uses simple hand embroidery on denim to create stylized and incredibly nonchalant pieces for all the big names in the music and fashion world. She considers Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney and Christian Dior as clients and has created garments for Drake, Beyonc and Miley Cyrus.

ITCHY SCRATCHY PATCHY: Itchy Scratchy Patchy was launched in 2015 by Christabel MacGreevy and Edie Campbell with a range of embroidered iron-on patches, inspired by British stereotypes and tabloid culture. The label has since grown to include finished garments, all of which are embroidered, embellished or printed with the same tongue-in-cheek individuality. The starting point was customization the idea of taking control of ones clothes and having fun with them. There is a lightness and eccentricity to the spirit of the clothes.

NGUYEN CONG TRI: Personally, one of my favourite newcomers to the embroidery and fashion scene, Nguyen was first recognized in 2000 when he won 1st prize in the New Idea category at Vietnams Grand Prix. Based in Ho Chi Minh City, he continues to produce pioneering pieces that use a combination of incredibly detailed hand embroidery and beautifully crafted garments (shown right).

References to illustrations are in italics.

3D beading

3D embroidery

anchoring stitches

Balmain

Bayeux Tapestry

beads

3D

hand embroidery identification

placement

selection

tambour beading

Bondaweb

bright check bullion

bullion

Burberry

ceremonial uniforms

Chanel

chips

colour

blending

bullion

planning

silk shading

companies

Cornely machine

corners

pearl purl

satin stitch

split stitch

tambour beading

couching

crochet de Lunville see tambour beading

cross stitch

cutwork

de la Renta, Oscar

design preparation

3D embroidery

goldwork

planning

professional process

tambour beading

Dior, Christian

direction of stitching

Dolce & Gabbana

drape

equipment

essing

felt padding

framing

garments

goldwork

hoop frames

slate frames

tambour beading

types

French knots

gathers

Gaultier, Jean-Paul

glue

Gn, Andrew

goldwork

chips

cutwork

design preparation

essing

history

materials and equipment

padding

passing

pearl purl

placement

plate

Gucci

Hand & Lock

hand embroidery

hemming 3D embroidery

high-street fashion

history of embroidery

hoop frames

influencers

Irish machine

Itchy Scratchy Patchy

Katrantzou, Mary

Khan, Naeem

lasso

leaf stitch

Lindell, Rene

Lockhart, Marie Sophie

long and short stitches

machine embroidery

Macson

Maison Lesage

Marchesa

materials

3D embroidery

design transfer

goldwork

planning

silk shading

tambour beading

unusual

McQueen, Alexander

mellor

Merry, James

metal threads

military embroidery

monogramming

needles

goldwork

silk shading

sizes

tambour hook

Nguyen Cong Tri

Opus Anglicanum

Packham, Jenny

padding

passing

patching

pearl purl

personalization

placement

plate

pleats

Prada

prick and pounce

Ralph & Russo

ready-to-wear

Roland, Pamella

running stitch

Saab, Elie

satin stitch

scissors

seam allowances

sequins

silk shading

slate frames

soft-string padding

split stitch

starting stitching

stem stitch

stitch plan

stitch selection

support fabric

tajima stitch

tambour beading

bead attachment

casting on

chain stitch

corners

designers

history

materials and equipment

preparation

sequin attachment

troubleshooting

threads

anchoring stitches

blending

goldwork

length

selection

silk shading

tambour beading

Valentino

waste-knots

Worth, Charles Frederick

Zari work see tambour beading

Since graduating from Royal Central School of Speech and Drama with a degree in Costume Construction, Jessica has been at embroidery house Hand & Lock, working her way up from Design Assistant to Production Director. She is the youngest Production Director in the history of the company.

Jessica enjoys complex embroidery projects involving multiple techniques and a global army of embroiders. Her favourite projects have included embroidering an M16 assault rifle for the Peace One Day Project; a private commission for artists Gilbert & George; Mary Katrantzou (Autumn/Winter, 2014); and Burberry (Spring/Summer, 2016). She has also worked with a number of other fashion designers, including Louis Vuitton, Mulberry, Victoria Beckham, Aspinal of London and Adidas.

Since becoming a Director at Hand & Lock in 2014, Jessica has expanded the embroidery school with the introduction of classes all year round, introduced the annual Festival of Embroidery and transformed the Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery into a world-class couture competition.