Lonely Planet West Coast Australia
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West Coast Australia
Unfettered and alive, West Coast Australia is 12,500km of truly spectacular coastline. Theres a freedom and optimism here that the rest of Australia cant replicate.
If the vast expanse of Western Australia (WA) was a separate nation, it would be the worlds 10th largest (bigger than Algeria, smaller than Kazakhstan). Most of WAs population clings to the coast yet you can wander along a beach without seeing another footprint, or be one of a few campers stargazing in a national park. The states fertile southwest features white-sand coves, rampant wildflowers and lush forests abuzz with native wildlife. Up north in the big-sky, red-dirt Pilbara and Kimberley, youll encounter ancient gorges and mesmerising waterfalls and no one else for kilometres.
Perth and Fremantle are laid-back, sunny cities in which the tradition of a nightly sundowner (sunset drink) is culturally ingrained. The cafe and restaurant scenes here, from bohemian to white-linen wonderful, make any visit a culinary delight. After dark, small bars simmer with typical WA decadence, while excellent local craft beers flow through pub taps. Further afield, the Margaret River and Great Southern wine regions produce world-class drops, complemented by inventive menus in regional restaurants. Truffles also grow down south, and WAs seafood is consistently sublime.
Time to get active! Block out a chunk of your calendar to hike the epic 1000km Bibbulmun Track or tackle a day walk perhaps a section of the Cape to Cape Track on Cape Naturaliste or a wildflower walk through Stirling Range National Park. Mountain bikers can wheel through the forests of Margaret River or careen along the Munda Biddi Trail (also 1000km). Dive and snorkel in marine parks and around shipwrecks, surf at Margaret River, or kitesurf and windsurf off Lancelins blowy beaches.
WAs native wildlife is ever present: you wont have to venture too far from Perth to see kangaroos, emus, colourful parrots and lesser-known locals such as quokkas, bilbies and potoroos. Each year 30,000 whales cruise the coast-hugging Humpback Hwy, while Bremer Bay near Albany is known for its orcas. Ningaloo Marine Park is home to the worlds largest fish, the whale shark, while dolphins proliferate at Rockingham, Bunbury and Monkey Mia. With a bit of research you can make an ethical choice about how you choose to interact.
By Charles Rawlings-Way, Writer
Theres something fundamentally liberated about West Coast Australia a frontier spirit thats free from the baggage of east-coast history. Western Australians have an extroverted world view, gazing (and travelling) across the Indian Ocean to India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Mauritius, the Maldives, South Africa Perth may be the most isolated city of its size on the planet, but locals are connected to their international neighbours in a way that introspective Melburnians struggle to countenance. Within the city and beyond, this is an ancient land: Aboriginal culture here has a mainstream presence that the rest of Australia is a long way from matching.
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