Copyright 2013 by Michele Bigley
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages.
Interior photographs by the author unless otherwise specified
Maps by Erin Greb Cartography, The Countryman Press
Text and cover design by Bodenweber Design
Composition by PerfecType, Nashville, TN
Published by The Countryman Press, P.O. Box 748, Woodstock, VT 05091
Distributed by W. W. Norton & Company, Inc., 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110
Explorers Guide Northern California
ISBN 978-0-88150-994-6
ISBN 978-1-581-57720-4 (e-book)
DEDICATION.
For Grumpy, who taught me the gifts of experiencing the road with a smile.
You brought love and positivity to everyone you came in contact with.
I hope to continue your legacy.
EXPLORE WITH US!
Welcome to the second edition of Northern California: An Explorers Guide. In these pages, I have highlighted both tourist attractions and locally favored (and by nature, under-the-tourist-radar) destinations. However, understanding that local townsfolk appreciate some level of sacredness to their secret spots, I have chosen to include only tried-and-true (and for the most part safe) adventures. In these pages, you will be privy to heaps of less-traveled waterfall hikes and hidden restaurants (as well as the superstar sights to see), but you probably will have to make friends with some locals to learn about that little-known swimming hole on private propertywhich will surely make for memorable travel tales.
We did not charge innkeepers, restaurants, or outfitters to be included in this book. In addition, Ive included zillions of Web sites throughout these pages, which I know will be a great resource for you; however, the Internet has actually increased the need for opinionated guidebooks like this one. I cant tell you how many inns looked like the queens summer home online, but when I saw the property, there were stains on the sheets and curtains falling off their rods. I have spent the last nine months on the road snooping around to find the best deals and unexplored gems for you. So sit back, grab a cup of coffee, and enjoy reading about the history, humorous tidbits, and wealth of activities, lodging, and restaurants from Big Sur to Yosemite, and all the way to the Oregon border.
WHATS WHERE
In the beginning of this book, youll find a list of special highlights, with important information and advice on everything from gold panning to weather. Think of it as a cheat sheet to what youll find in this amazing and huge region.
PRICES
Please dont hold us (or the listed innkeepers) responsible for the rates listed as of press time in 2012. Changes are inevitable. California has a statewide lodging tax of 10 percent and an average sales tax of 7.5 percent (though each city decides on its own sales tax, with some as high as 8 percent).
SMOKING
California enforces a statewide ban on smoking in restaurants, bars, nightclubs, hotels, and within 10 to 15 feet of these establishments. There is even talk about banning smoking in some public places.
RESTAURANTS
Note the distinction between Dining Out and Eating Out. By nature, the restaurants listed in the Eating Out section are generally inexpensive, except in Napa and San Francisco.
KEY TO SYMBOLS
The kid-friendly crayon symbol appears next to listings with special appeal to young people.
The wheelchair symbol appears next to listings that are partially or fully handicapped accessible.
The dog paw symbol appears next to lodgings that accept pets. In general, you can expect to pay a fee for letting Duke the dog or Luna the cat come along. Make sure to tell the owners upon your reservation that you plan to bring an animal.
The martini glass symbol appears next to restaurants with bars or drinking establishments.
The blue ribbon symbol appears next to lodging and restaurants that give you an exceptional deal for your money.
The wedding ring symbol appears next to facilities that serve as venues for weddings and civil unions.
The Wi-Fi symbol indicates lodgings that offer wireless or data ports. In many cases, the more expensive hotels charge a fee for this while B&Bs and inns do not.
The triangle symbol indicates lodgings that go out of their way to welcome LGBT travelers.
LODGING PRICES
The prices listed range from low-season to high-season rates. On summer weekends and holidays (especially on the coast), prices can double. I have not included tax in the prices.
$ | Under $100 |
$$ | $101200 |
$$$ | $201300 |
$$$$ | Over $300 |
DINING PRICES
The prices listed do not include drinks, tax, or gratuity (which is normally 15 percent of your total bill). Prices are generally for an entre (except for the occasional prix fixe tasting menu). Note that San Francisco requires all businesses to offer health insurance to their workers; many restaurants tack on an extra few bucks to cover this cost, calling it Healthy San Francisco.
$ | Under $10 |
$$ | $1019 |
$$$ | $2029 |
$$$$ | Over $30 |
We would appreciate your comments and corrections about places you visit or know well. Please e-mail Michele at or write Explorers Guide Editor, The Countryman Press, P.O. Box 748, Woodstock, Vermont 05091.
MAPS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
T his book would not be possible without the assistance of The Countryman his book would not be possible without the assistance of The Countryman Press crew: Kermit Hummel, Lisa Sacks, Kate Mueller, and Douglas Yeager.
Here in Northern California, the following people helped direct me toward the best the state has to offer: Thanks to Michele Mandell, John Poimiroo, Dan McGuire, Diana Gil-Osorio, Tami von Isakovics, Jody Franklin, Lucy Steffens, Karen Whitaker, Kelly Chamberlin, Jeanne Sullivan, Jamie Law, Keri Hanson, Lisa Sesto, Trisha Clayton, Aphrodite Caserta, Richard Stenger, Nina Laramore, Eden Umble, Christina Glynn, Koleen Hamblin, Jeanette Chin, Tina Luster, Eleanor Bertino, the Glodow Nead crew, Jennifer Tomaro Evans, Catherine Duyn, Laurie Armstrong, Alicia Vennos, and Pettit Gilwee. There are many more people who offered sage advice on this edition, and if I spaced on including your name, I sincerely apologize. Know that you are appreciated.