New American Knits
Classic Sportswear Patterns
Amy Christoffers
CONTENTS
Introduction
The American Look is simple and practical. The term comes from the style of the 1930s and 1940sthe moment in fashion when American designers stopped looking to Europe for inspiration and created a style that was uniquely their own. The American Look is fresh and modern, even by todays standards: tailored and unfussy but with whimsical details. Think Katharine Hepburn or Lauren Bacall looking relaxed and casual, crisp and tailored, all at the same time.
New American Knits is about applying traditional knitting skills and textile motifs to contemporary wearable knitting. It is nostalgic but not vintage, with textures and colorwork motifs adapted and applied with an eye toward creating a modern wardrobe.
It is my hope that this collection reflects how we dress every day: contemporary sportswear, the simple-but-sophisticated modern uniform. These pieces have clean lines that make for soothing knitting. They feature both seamless and semiseamless construction and simple stitches such as garter, stockinette, and waffle, punctuated with lace and pops of colorwork. These pieces are engaging to knit but not complicated, emphasizing the use of traditional motifs, techniques, and skills to produce a result that is satisfying in both form and function.
Ive named each of the pieces after an American artist that I find particularly inspiring. I hope you are intrigued enough to investigate them!
Georgia Sweater
This classic raglan sweater, named for painter Georgia OKeefe, is given bohemian drama and interest with an oversize focal flower. The crochet slip-stitch embroidery, inspired by the hippie style of my Vermont childhood, is beautiful but optional; you can work as much or as little of it as you like. The sweater is a blank canvas for creative expression.
Finished Size
About 36 (3712, 4034, 44, 4714, 5114)" (91.5 [95.5, 103.5, 112, 120, 130] cm) bust circumference.
Pullover shown measures 36" (91.5 cm).
Yarn
Sportweight (#2 fine).
Shown here: Fibre Company Savannah (50% wool, 20% cotton, 15% soya, 15% linen; 160 yd [146 m]/50 g): Cabernet (MC), 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9) skeins; Persimmon (CC), 1 skein.
Needles
BodySize U.S. 6 (4 mm): 16" (40 cm) and 24" (60 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
RibbingSize U.S. 4 (3.5 mm): 16" (40 cm) and 24" (60 cm) cir and set of 4 or 5 dpn.
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions
Stitch markers (m); stitch holders or waste yarn; tapestry needle; size US 7/4.5 mm crochet hook for embroidery; tailors chalk (optional).
Gauge
20 sts and 28 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in St st worked in rnds on larger needles.
Stitch Guide
22 Rib (multiple of 4 sts)
Rnd 1: *K1, p2, k1; rep from *.
Rep Rnd 1 for patt.
Note: Working the slipped stitch crochet is easier with a little practice. Experiment with different hook sizes on the swatch until youre confident to proceed on the completed sweater.
Sleeve
With MC and smaller needle, CO 40 (40, 44, 44, 48, 52) sts. Divide sts evenly over 3 or 4 dpn. Place marker (pm) for beg of rnd and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.
Work in 22 rib (see ) until piece measures 212" (6.5 cm) from beg.
Change to larger dpn.
Work even in St st (knit all sts, every rnd) until piece measures 412" (11.5 cm) from beg.
Shape Sleeve
Inc Rnd: K1, M1L (see ), k12 sts incd.
Knit 11 (9, 9, 7, 6, 6) rnds.
Rep the last 12 (10, 10, 10, 7, 7) rnds 7 (9, 9, 11, 12, 13) times56 (60, 64, 68, 74, 80) sts.
Work even in St st until piece measures 19" (48.5 cm) from beg, ending last rnd 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts before m. Place 8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 18) sts onto st holder or waste yarn for underarm, then place rem 48 (50, 52, 54, 58, 62) sts aside for yoke. Break yarn.
Make a second sleeve the same as the first.
Body
With MC and larger cir, CO 176 (184, 200, 216, 232, 252) sts. Pm for beg of rnd and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.
Work in 22 rib until piece measures 212" (6.5 cm) from beg.
Work in St st until piece measures 534" (14.5 cm) from beg.
PM for Side: K88 (92, 100, 108, 116, 126) sts, pm for side, knit to end.
Shape Waist
Dec Rnd: *K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before side m, ssk, k1, sl m; rep from * once more4 sts decd.
Knit 13 rnds.
Rep the last 14 rnds once more168 (176, 192, 208, 224, 244) sts.
Knit 8 rnds.
Inc Rnd: *K1, M1L, knit to 3 sts before side m, M1R, k1, sl m; rep from * once more4 sts incd.
Knit 11 rnds.
Rep the last 12 rnds 2 times180 (188, 204, 220, 236, 256) sts.
Cont working even in St st until piece measures 16" (40.5 cm) from beg, ending last rnd 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts before the beg of rnd m.
Yoke
Joining Rnd: Cont working with cir holding body sts. *Place next 8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 18) sts onto st holder or waste yarn for underarm, removing m, return 48 (50, 52, 54, 58, 62) held sts from one sleeve onto empty end of cir and knit across, pm for raglan, k82 (84, 90, 96, 102, 110) sts to 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts before side m, pm; rep from * once more260 (268, 284, 300, 320, 344) sts. Last m placed is new beg of rnd.
Shape Raglan
Dec Rnd: *K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before next m, ssk, k1, sl m; rep from * 3 more times8 sts decd.
Knit 1 rnd.
Rep the last 2 rnds 3 (4, 5, 18, 19, 22) times228 (228, 236, 148, 160, 160) sts; 40 (40, 40, 16, 18, 16) sts each sleeve, 74 (74, 78, 58, 62, 64) sts each back and front.