Holman - Bias-Cut Dressmaking

Sometimes one sees a bias-cut garment that does not hang properly This indicates either that it has not been cut with the true bias through the centre of the panels or that it has been stitched incorrectly The most obvious examples of the latter are found in mens neckties: if one holds a tie up by one end it should hang straight; if the tie spirals then it has either been stretched when stitched or cut incorrectly. It is essential to experiment with stitching before putting a garment together. Many fabrics will accept the use of an overlocking stitch to make the seams, and this generally works well with bias garments, as overlocking allows the stitch to stretch with the fabric. If an overlocker is not available, or if the fabric frays too much, use a very slight zigzag, which will also give with the fabric. Most stretch stitches on domestic machines are too extreme for this type of work. It is wise to stitch a zip into a bias-cut garment by hand, as the seamstress is less likely to stretch the fabric on to the zipper tape this way.

If a bias-cut garment includes sleeves, it is usual to cut these on the straight. A bias-cut sleeve in a dress that is entirely cut on the bias makes the stitching extremely difficult to control. Any sleeve that fits the original block should work in a bias-cut dress. When inserting a sleeve into this type of garment, it is wise to tape the shoulder and armhole seams to prevent stretch. Metric and imperial measurements have been given with all instructions. It is easier to be more precise when working in millimetres and centimetres than in inches, and to avoid problems imperial measurements have been taken to the nearest in.

Most of the designs for dresses and slips in the book are interchangeable and could serve either purpose. Where it is necessary to use neck and armhole facings, these should be traced off the final pattern and, apart from the cowl necks, cut on the straight grain, as this gives control to the garment I have taught City and Guilds fashion students for many years and have often found that experienced dressmakers are frightened of cutting on the bias. As long as the rules are followed, the results are frequently stunning, and for lingerie and evening wear nothing is more effective or more comfortable than the combination of elegant drape and easy fit achieved by this method.

0-1	Back shoulder to waist
0-2	Half bust including ease: for example, 88 cm + 5 cm ease = 93 cm (34 in + 2 in = 36 in); divide by 2 = 46.5 cm (18 in)
2-3	Equals 0-1 (Square down to 3 and across to 1)
0-4	2 cm (3/4 in)
0-5	One fifth of neck measurement
4-5	Neck curve
4-6	2.5 cm (1 in) down, then rule at right angle across for 25 cm (9 in)
5-7	Shoulder length, measured from 5 to line from 6
7-8	Armhole depth; square across both ways to 9 and 10
9-10	Underarm line; square out both ways from 8
	Half depth 7-8; square out to centre back line
	Half cross-back measurement on line from 11
2-13	One-fifth of neck measurement less 1 cm ( in)
2-14	Equals 2-13 + 1.5 cm (5/8 in)
2-15	Equals 2-13 + 5 mm ( in), taking measurement diagonally from 2. Bust 88 cm + 5 cm ease = 93 cm (34 in + 2 in = 36 in) Waist 68 cm + 2.5 cm ease (26 in + 1 in) Hip 93 cm + 5 cm ease (36 in + 2 in) Cross back 34.4 cm + 2 cm ease (13 in + in) Cross chest 32.4 cm + 2 cm ease (12 in + in) Neck 38 cm + 2 cm ease (15 in + in) Total front dart 7 cm (2in) CF neck to waist 35 cm + 1 cm ease (13 in + in) Front shoulder to waist 45 cm + 1 cm ease (17 in + in) Back shoulder to waist 45 cm + 2 cm ease (17 in + in) CB neck to waist 40 cm + 2 cm ease (15 in + in) Shoulder length 12.25 cm + 1 cm ease (4+ in) Top arm to elbow 30 cm + 2 cm ease (12 in + in) Armhole depth 21 cm + 2 cm ease (8 in + in) Hip depth 20 cm + 1 cm ease (8 in + in) Bodice Draft Back Bodice and Neck 0-1 Back shoulder to waist 0-2 Half bust including ease: for example, 88 cm + 5 cm ease = 93 cm (34 in + 2 in = 36 in); divide by 2 = 46.5 cm (18 in) 2-3 Equals 0-1 (Square down to 3 and across to 1)