FRUITFUL
THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO OUR FIRST AND
FOURTH GENERATIONS OF OUR RED JACKET FARMING FAMILY.
IN LOVING MEMORY OF EMILY NICHOLSON AND JOE NICHOLSON SR.
FOR LEADING US DOWN AN AGRARIAN PATH, WITH COMMITMENT
AND INTEGRITYAND TO OUR CHILDREN
WHO FILL US WITH ENDLESS STRENGTH AND
HOPE FOR THE FUTURE.
Copyright 2014 by Brian Nicholson and Sarah Huck
Photography 2014 by Steve Legato except where noted
Published by Running Press,
A Member of the Perseus Books Group
All rights reserved under the Pan-American and International Copyright Conventions
This book may not be reproduced in whole or in part, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system now known or hereafter invented, without written permission from the publisher.
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2013943524
E-book ISBN 978-0-7624- 5175-3
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Digit on the right indicates the number of this printing
Designed by Frances J. Soo Ping Chow
Edited by Kristen Green Wiewora
Food Stylist: Emma Feigenbaum
Prop Stylist: Mariellen Melker
Typography: Abraham Lincoln, Centaur MT, Janda Stylish Script, Raleway Thin, Samantha, and Univers
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TABLE & CONTENTS
Daniel Humm, Eleven Madison Park
I WANT TO THANK THE MANY PEOPLE WHO CONTRIBUTED TO THIS BEAUTIFUL CULMINATION OF LIVING HISTORY AND CULINARY ART. THE BOOK WOULD NOT HAVE HAPPENED WITHOUT AN IDEA HATCHED LONG AGO BY MY CO-AUTHOR SARAH HUCK AND OUR FRIENDS RICH ROSSMASSLER AND JUSTONE BOSSERT, SO I THANK THE THREE OF YOU IMMENSELY. SARAH, YOU BELIEVED IN, COAXED, STIRRED, AND CAJOLED MY FAMILY TO EXPRESS THE DEEP LOVE OF OUR CRAFT. YOUR TALENT AND PASSION FULFILL THIS BOOK.
Sarah and I both extend a warm and heartfelt thanks to the following: our superb agent, Jenni Ferrari-Adler for having faith in this project and patiently seeing it through the years; our editor, Kristen Green Wiewora and everyone at Running Press for your outstanding professionalism and care in helping us craft something so near to our hearts; talented book designer Frances Soo Ping Chow; photographer Steve Legato and food stylist Emma Feigenbaum for bringing our fruit to life; recipe tester extraordinaire Arielle Cooper; Allon, Daniella, Noa, and Amelia Azulai for their infinite and steadfast wonderfulness.
We would also like to thank all of the remarkable chefs, fellow farmers, and food professionals who generously shared some of their favorite recipes, including Dan Barber, Jeff and Adina Bialas, Daniel Boulud and DBGBs pastry chef Mymi Eberhardt, Melissa Clark, Mary Cleaver, Karen DeMasco, Melissa and Emily Elsen, Sara Kate Gillingham-Ryan, Rune and Giulietta Hilt, Molly Killeen, Agatha Kulaga and Erin Patinkin, Kari and Tyler Morris, Jessica Quon and Sabrina Valle, Chris Ronis, June Russell, Sarah Sanneh, Adam Shepard, Francine Stephens and Andrew Feinberg, Andrew Tarlow and the Marlow & Sons pastry chef Ashley Whitmore, Julie Tarras Wallach, Bill Telepan, Molly Wessel, and Jody Williams. We particularly express our deep gratitude to Chef Daniel Humm, for your eloquent and kind foreword.
Red Jacket would not be a success without the dedicated individuals who work here every daygrowing, packing, juicing, trucking, retailing and administeringto help us make the best-tasting product in the world. Your tireless commitment is an everlasting inspiration: thank you!
Its essential to recognize my family. First, of course, Mom: you are the glue that keeps this whole thing together (you and your jam). You persevered in raising a farm family, with humor and your patented Irish Ways; because of that, we now have a fourth generation waiting in the wings. To my eldest brother JJ, with passion in your heart and no fear, you led us to the streets of New York City and its Greenmarkets. Red Jacket Orchards would be very different without your love of that space. To my sister, Amy May, of equal passion and creativity, you labored in the New York City streets and brought our relationship with the citys culinary scene to a new level. To my better half since the egg split twin brother, Mark, with your love of politics, plow, family, and now sales, taking every step with you keeps me sane and makes the whole thing that much more fun.
To my father, Joe, whose deep passion and endless pursuit of superior flavors informs our every decision. You took the raw potential of a small orchard and willed it into a generational business that is our Red Jacket today. Your vision, contrarian nature, and absolute intolerance of obstacles has lead us to a better placeand created a wonderful ride for all involved.
Finally, to my wife and kids, Kirstin, Emily, Colin, and Anna: You inspire me daily as I watch the beauty of life unfolding around me. Your patience and love empower this journey and fill me with pride.
And most importantly, to our many dedicated customers, its not enough to say thank you. Without your priorities taking shape for better food and a better planet, none of this is possible. As I like to say, You keep eating, well keep growing!
I GREW UP IN A SMALL TOWN IN SWITZERLAND, A TOWN WHERE THE ONLY PLACE TO SHOP FOR PRODUCE, MEAT, AND DAIRY WAS THE LOCAL FARMERS MARKET. I HAVE VIVID CHILDHOOD MEMORIES OF STROLLING THROUGH THE MARKET WITH MY MOTHER ON ALMOST A DAILY BASIS. WED SELECT WHAT LOOKED BEST, ALWAYS CHATTING WITH THE PURVEYORS, WHETHER IT WAS ABOUT THE TOWN GOSSIP OR NEW FRUIT THEY WERE GROWING, AND THEN HAUL HOME OUR FINDS TO BE WASHED, PEELED, AND SHUCKED. THESE EARLY EXPERIENCES AT THE MARKET TAUGHT ME A LOT. THEY TAUGHT ME ABOUT THE DELICIOUS INGREDIENTS AT MY FINGERTIPS AND THE COMMITMENT THAT FARMERS HAVE TO THEIR PRODUCTS. THEY GREATLY INFLUENCED MY PHILOSOPHY AS A CHEF AND MY APPROACH TO FOOD IN GENERAL. AND THOSE EARLY EXPERIENCES ARE WHAT LED ME INTO THIS PROFESSION IN THE FIRST PLACE. WHEN I EVENTUALLY MOVED TO AMERICA I WAS WORRIED I WOULD LOSE SOME OF THIS CONNECTION TO THE FOOD, TO THE FARMERS. I WAS CONCERNED THAT THIS CULTURE WOULDNT EXIST.
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