Joanna Kirby - Pocket Rough Guide Ibiza and Formentera

Only the unacquainted could dismiss Ibiza as little more than a ravers paradise and those who know the island well know it to be one of Spains most cosmopolitan and attractive corners affluent, self-confident, and with a fascinating heritage and a vibrant, home-grown music scene of global reach and importance.

Las Salinas Beach

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Ibiza architecture

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A pivotal part of the Carthaginian empire between 600 and 50 BC, Ibiza was closely linked with the fertility goddess Tanit and the god of dance Bes (from whom the name Ibiza is derived). Its status, however, declined under Roman occupation, and the island spent the next two thousand years as a backwater. Then, in the early 1960s, political opponents of Franco settled here and waves of beatniks discovered the island. Ibizas decidedly bohemian character is rooted in this era, and remains particularly evident in the north of the island, where youll find ethnic bazaars and hippy markets, as well as a large population of alternative types.

The islands natural beauty is captivating. Large swathes of the coastline survive in pristine condition, with sweeping sandy bays and exquisite coves tucked beneath soaring cliffs. Ibizas hilly, thickly wooded interior is peppered with isolated whitewashed villages and terraced fields of almonds, figs and olives. To really experience the scenic beauty and tranquility of the islands countryside, stay at an agroturimo (rural hotel) for a while; many excellent new places have opened in the last few years.

Whats new

Recent years have seen an increase in outdoor, daytime parties challenging the post-midnight clubs of old, with the rising popularity of pool parties and beach clubs sucking up ever more tourist euros. Musically, clubs and venues are broadening their horizons, with grime, rap and UKG getting more playtime, as well as funk and disco, instead of just the usual house and techno. Behind the scenes, dramatic rental increases on both islands mean seasonal workers cant afford a home, potentially leaving many venues without a full complement of staff.

When to visit

Ibiza and Formentera are very warm between June and late September, when cloudless skies are virtually guaranteed. The heat can get intense in July and August, when highs in the 30s are common, but even at this time of year cooling sea breezes usually intervene to prevent things getting too uncomfortable. Winter in the Pitiuses (southern Balearics) is also glorious, with very little rainfall and temperatures normally high enough to enjoy sitting outside in cafs, even in January. As far as crowds go, theres a very clearly defined tourist season on both islands that begins slowly around Easter, peaks in August when the islands get really packed, and slowly winds down from late September and throughout October. Winter is a wonderfully peaceful time for a visit, with late January and early February a particularly beautiful time to come. Nightlife might be thin on the ground, but the skies are still blue and the almond trees and winter wild flowers are in full bloom.

The charismatic capital, Ibiza Town, harbours most of the islands architectural treats, including a spectacular walled enclave, Dalt Vila, and a port area stuffed with hip bars, stylish restaurants and fashionable boutiques. Laying claim to be the worlds clubbing capital, Ibiza is an incredibly hedonistic place, where the nights are celebrated with unique spirit in landmark clubs scattered across the southern half of the island.

Serene, easy-going Formentera, the other main island of the Pitiuses (southern Balearics), is just a short ferry ride south of Ibiza yet offers a complete contrast. Boasting a relaxed, unhurried atmosphere and miles of ravishing sandy beaches lapped by translucent water, it has little or no nightlife and few historical sights apart from some sombre fortress churches and minor archeological ruins. Its the simplicity of life here, a back-to-nature appeal, which is Formenteras real allure.

Experimental Beach

Experimental Beach

Language

Catalan, not Castilian Spanish, is the official language of the islands, and we have therefore used Catalan names throughout the guide.