Julie Wernersbach - The Swimming Holes of Texas

NUMBER FORTY-FOUR

Jack and Doris Smothers Series in Texas History, Life, and Culture

The SWIMMING HOLES OF Texas

JULIE WERNERSBACH & CAROLYN TRACY

Photography by

CAROLYN TRACY

UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS PRESS

AUSTIN

Publication of this work was made possible in part by support from the J. E. Smothers, Sr., Memorial Foundation and the National Endowment for the Humanities.

Copyright 2017 by the University of Texas Press

All rights reserved

First edition, 2017

Requests for permission to reproduce material from this work should be sent to:

Permissions

University of Texas Press

P.O. Box 7819

Austin, TX 78713-7819

http://utpress.utexas.edu/index.php/rp-form

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA

Names: Wernersbach, Julie, author. | Tracy, Carolyn, author, photographer.

Title: The swimming holes of Texas / Julie Wernersbach and Carolyn Tracy ; photography by Carolyn Tracy.

Description: First edition. | Austin : University of Texas Press, 2017.

Identifiers: LCCN 2016037835

ISBN 978-1-4773-1237-7 (pbk. : alk. paper)

ISBN 978-1-4773-1333-6 (library e-book)

ISBN 978-1-4773-1334-3 (nonlibrary e-book)

Subjects: LCSH: TexasGuidebooks. | SwimmingTexasGuidebooks. | Outdoor recreationTexasGuidebooks. | Recreation areasTexasGuidebooks.

Classification: LCC F384.3 .T73 2017 | DDC 917.640464dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016037835

doi:10.7560/312377

To the men of the Civilian Conservation Corps: thank you for the beautiful parks.

Julie W.

To Faraday Arnold and Julia Fetters

Carolyn T.

Contents

Introduction

SWIM THE LONE STAR STATE

Its the middle of July. Bank marquees and car thermometers clock another 104 day. Air conditioners moan. Brooklyn transplants weep. Everyone sweats. Across Texas, drivers gingerly pull seat belts across our laps, careful to avoid meeting skin to scorching metal. We settle Topo Chicos into cup holders, crank as much cold air as our car engines can summon, and point our vehicles toward the only destination that holds relief: one of Texass natural swimming holes.

As quintessential to Texas as Lone Star Beer, barbecue, and Willie Nelsons Fourth of July picnic, swimming holes are vital to surviving the regions endless, sweltering summers. Ordinary concrete pools dont compare to the transcendent calm of clear springwater, old-growth trees, and wide-open skies; they cant offer the sense of adventure that comes from piling friends, family, and picnic essentials in the car for a road trip, short or long.

But how do you choose which of the dozens of possible oases to visit? Pedernales Falls? Blue Hole? Garner State Park? Amistad Reservoir? Boykin Springs? The state of Texas is home to hundreds of lakes, rivers, and spring-fed holes, each one boasting its own unique natural magic. Otherworldly grottoes and waterfalls, hidden canyons, and an endless variety of animal and plant life distinguish each sweet spot from the next one on the map. Where do you begin?

This guide is here to help. The Swimming Holes of Texas is a curated list of over one hundred of the best swim spots across the state. From as far north as Quanah to as far west as Balmorhea, these are top recommended places to jump into natural water and cool off, based on empirical research conducted by two authors armed with towels, sunscreen, and the mission to drive across Texas tracking down every promising piece of water on the map. The guiding criteria were simple: Is this water we want to swim in? Are there reasonable amenities? Do we feel safe and relaxed? And, most important, would we want to come here again?

Preserved, protected, and sources of pride, the swimming holes of Texas and the parks that house them are among the Lone Star States most celebrated pleasures. Keep this guide in your bag or backseat all summer long as inspiration for spontaneous road trips and weekend adventures. With this book in one hand and a bottle of sunblock in the other, youll be ready to dive into everything a Texas summer has to offer.

Planning Your Trip

This guide is organized around six regions: North, East, Central, Austin and surrounding area, South, and West. We define North as the area north of Georgetown, including the DallasFort Worth metroplex and the Panhandle. East includes the Pineywoods and Big Thicket regions. South encompasses locales south of Interstate 10 and east of I-35. West covers anything that lies west of Utopia and south of I-10.

Basic information regarding operating hours, fees, amenities, and park rules is included. For comprehensive and up-to-the-minute information, call ahead to your destination or visit its website.

Fees listed pertain to day use only. Additional fees are typically required for camping, boating, and other activities. Hours listed refer to day-use areas. Office hours vary.

For the purposes of this guide, information focuses on the swim experience at each location. Often, particularly in the case of state parks, these destinations have plenty more to offer, including extensive hiking trails, guided tours, camping, and additional recreational activities. Take time to get to know a place, either by stopping at a visitors center when you arrive or checking its website in advance. May the promise of swimming lure you into unexpected adventures on your trip!

Natural swimming holes are, above all else, ruled by one power: Mother Nature. Water levels and swim experiences will vary depending on weather, annual rainfall, and other environmental factors. Swimming areas within designated parks may be closed because of environmental conditions like drought, flooding, or contamination. Because posted conditions may be unavailable and can rapidly change, careful consideration must be applied when enjoying a swimming hole. Always avoid swimming in stagnant water, drinking untreated water, and fully submerging oneself if there is cause for concern. Texas Parks & Wildlife is diligent about updating the status of its parks and water areas on each state parks web page. The best way to know what to expect at a destination, however, is to call ahead.

Texas is known for its heat and its swimming. Its not known for its abundant shade. Potable water is not always available at a swim spot, especially if its all natural and undeveloped. Bring more water with you than you think youll need. Sunscreen and general sun protection are highly recommended.

Packing list: Sunscreen. Sunhat. Towel. Water shoes (or hiking boots, depending on the terrain). Drinking water. Trash bag.

Pro tip: For the state parks listed in this guide, the searchable Texas Parks & Wildlife website (tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks) provides invaluable information, including printable PDFs of park maps, written driving directions, and GPS coordinates.

Swimmers Etiquette

Clean up after yourself. Pollution from human trash threatens the vitality and beauty of these places we hold so dear. If you carried it in, carry it back out. If your pet left it behind, clean it up before you go. Pet waste is a serious source of water pollution.

Leave every piece of the park behind. Artifacts, animals, stones, and every bit of the environment you visit is protected and must remain where you discovered it. Take a photo, not the object.

Obey all posted park rules. They exist for the preservation and protection of the natural environment and for your safety.