THE CULT RECIPES
OF A NEW YORKER My grandparents emigrated to New York from Russia. I went in the opposite direction and consequently have spent the last 13 years as a New Yorker in Paris. People are always asking me if I miss New York and seem shocked that I chose to leave. The truth is I like being a New Yorker in Paris more than being a New Yorker in New York, where, lets face it, were a dime a dozen. Its kind of like Superman. On earth, hes a superhero
faster than a speeding bullet able to leap tall buildings in a single bound.
But back on Krypton (with its presumably higher gravitational pull), hed just be one Kryptonian among others, a mere pedestrian going about his not-particularly heroic business. Not to suggest that New Yorkers are some sort of super race or that living there is a bore, but being an expat does have its perks. For starters, you get to actually miss and appreciate all those things you once took for granted. And if youre like me, this phenomenon will manifest itself almost exclusively through food. What begins as a minor homesick craving say, for a fresh bialy from Kossars or a piece of cheesecake from Juniors builds into a full-blown culinary obsession. The next thing you know youve spent two weeks trying to make the perfect fill-in-the-blank from your composite food memories, which pretty much explains this book.
Basically, these are the recipes I crave most when I miss New York and, as such, they reflect my own idiosyncratic experience of New York food a mix of Greek diners, Jewish delis, old-school Chinatown, American junk food, American health food and a bunch of other stuff tossed into the melting pot. Put it all together and youve got a one-way ticket to NYC. Enjoy the flight! M.G.
CONTENTS
FILTERED COFFEE Unlimited refills of filtered coffee is a longstanding tradition in New York diners. We call it a bottomless cup, and this is surely one of the reasons why New York is called the city that never sleeps. In recent years, the once-humble cup of filtered coffee has been gaining in prestige as a new wave of coffee afficionados work on preparing it with scientific precision using freshly ground coffee beans.
My friend Thomas Lehoux, one of the founders of the Parisian coffee club Frog Fight and co-owner of Caf Rn, was one of the first to promote this style of coffee in Paris. Here are his instructions for making a perfect cup at home. MAKES 1 CUP Preparation time: 5 minutes WHAT YOU NEED a kettle a dripper (preferably Hario) a coffee pot a filter (preferably Kalita) freshly roasted whole coffee beans a set of scales a coffee grinder Step 1. Boil some water in the kettle. Step 2. Put the dripper on the coffee pot and the filter into the dripper. When the water boils, pour a little into the filter to rinse it out and remove the paper taste. Step 3. Weigh out the coffee. Step 3. Weigh out the coffee.
The general rule is: 60 g (2 oz) coffee to 1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) water. So for 400 ml (14 fl oz) water, I use 25 g (1 oz) coffee. Grind the coffee to filter coffee size you should be able to feel the particles between your fingers. It looks like a powder to the eye. Step 4. Put the coffee in the middle of the filter and add 80 ml (2 fl oz/ cup) water. Wait for 30 seconds (to de-gas the coffee), then slowly add the remaining 320 ml (11 fl oz) water.
It should take about 2 minutes for all the water to filter through to your coffee pot (if this is not the case, grind the coffee more finely and increase the volume of water).
Dont stir the coffee grinds with a spoon, let the water flow through by itself. Step 5. Enjoy your coffee. ICED COFFEE Use the same method, adding ice to the jug after rinsing the filter, and reduce the equivalent weight of the ice from the water.
CHALLAH This braided loaf, traditionally eaten for Shabbat, is New Yorks answer to the French brioche. MAKES 1 LOAF Preparation time: 45 minutes, plus cooling Resting time: 2 hours Cooking time: 25 minutes DRY INGREDIENTS 575 g (1 lb 4 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour 1 teaspoons dried yeast 55 g (2 oz/ cup) caster (superfine) sugar 2 teaspoons fine salt WET INGREDIENTS 145 ml (4 fl oz) lukewarm water 2 eggs 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons olive oil GLAZE 1 tablespoon egg white 1 teaspoon caster (superfine) sugar THE DOUGH Combine the dry ingredients, then beat together the wet ingredients. Carefully combine the two mixtures and knead until the dough is very elastic (510 minutes in a machine, 1020 minutes by hand).
Form a smooth ball of dough, place it in an oiled container and cover with plastic wrap. Let it rise at room temperature for about 1 hours until it has doubled in volume. SHAPING THE DOUGH Divide the dough into six equal portions. Using the palms of your hands, shape each portion into evenly shaped sausages about 30 cm (12 inches) long. On a baking tray thats floured or lined with baking paper, braid the sausages using the illustration as a guide. Sprinkle the braid lightly with flour, then cover loosely with plastic wrap.
Let it rise at room temperature for at least 1 hour until it has doubled in volume. COOKING Preheat the oven to 180C (350F/Gas 4). Combine the egg white and sugar and brush it over the braid. Bake for about 25 minutes until the bread is golden brown. Allow to cool.
GREEN SMOOTHIE In New York, Melvins Juice Box is the place to go for green smoothies.
In Paris, its Bobs Juice Bar and its J.-P., the manager, who makes them. SERVES 2 Preparation time: 5 minutes INGREDIENTS 1 ripe banana, peeled and frozen 250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) mineral water 1 huge handful baby spinach 1 tablespoon fresh herbs (mint or parsley) 100 g (3 oz) frozen mango flesh Place everything in a blender, ending with the mango so you can adjust the quantity to make up 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups), and blend. If your blender isnt powerful enough to handle rock-hard frozen fruit, let the mixture soften for a few minutes before blending.