Buenos Aires Encounter

Buenos Aires runs on nostalgia and cosmopolitan ambition. For every group of trendsetters laughing over cocktails, theres a cluster of old-timers gathered around a radio, a tear rolling down someones cheek as Carlos Gardel sings of the glowing street lamps of his beloved city.

The dichotomy is rooted in Argentinas tumultuous past. The capital city, once a prosperous European-style metropolis teeming with glamorous tango halls and grand cafes, buckled under the strain of a military government and several economic collapses. But Buenos Aires is back on its feet. A talented generation of designers, ftbolistas (soccer players), musicians and restaurateurs have reinvigorated the beleaguered capital, transforming it into one of the most talked-about travel destinations on the planet.

The hype, after all, is warranted the steak really is the best in the world, dance halls fill with tango students every night of the week, the soccer matches are intense and passionate, the wine is affordable and delicious. But Buenos Aires magnetism, as any porteo (BA local) will tell you, extends well beyond such clichs. Architecturally speaking, the city is a fascinating microcosm of styles from colonial to belle epoque to modernist. The Parisian-style cafe circuit, backed by an intriguing literary history, is paradise for bookish types and coffee lovers, and the edgy local fashion scene seduces design-minded travelers.

Gorge yourself on red meat at a rustic parrilla (grill restaurant), nurse a bottle of Malbec at an old-fashioned milonga (social dance) as local tango dancers embrace dramatically on the wooden dance floor, pull an all-nighter at a thumping electronic venues along the Costanera, revel in gaucho culture at a pea (folk music club). Give Buenos Aires some time. Soon youll begin to understand the bittersweet charm the poignant collision of old-fashioned sensibility and contemporary revolution that simultaneously thrills visitors and makes old men shed a tear or two.

Hola from a junior ftbolista (soccer player) and friends above the Caminito, La Boca
TERRY CARTER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Sensuous and melancholy, the tango is quintessentially porteo (BA local). Though the dance form was born in the brothels of Buenos Aires poor immigrant barrios, its humble roots are often hidden beneath champagne and glitter at tourist-oriented tango shows. For a more authentic taste of tango, flee the tour-bus masses and dart through the shadows to a milonga (social dance). Here youll find locals of all ages some in fishnets, others in jeans acting out human drama and seduction on the dance floor.

Start at , a historic downtown cafe with a grand ballroom on the upper level. Antique chandeliers and marble pillars evoke old-world elegance, and the faded velvet and tango orchestras add a certain dusty charm that draws a nightly crowd of experienced local dancers. Classes are held before the milonga for the regulars begins at 11pm.

Once you know the difference between Gardel and Piazzolla, take your dancing shoes over to . Both venues host classes before dimming the lights for a milonga . Too shy to wrap your arms (and legs) around a stranger? Just order a glass of wine and watch the citys skilled tangueros do their thing. But dont stare too long at the handsome stranger across the room an open gaze, according to milonga etiquette, is an invitation to dance.

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Milonga (tango hall) at Centro Region Leonesa, Montserrat
BRIDGET GLEESON

Pay your respects to the citys late and great at the spectacular Cementerio de la Recoleta, a necropolis ornate enough to rival Pre Lachaise in Paris or the above-ground cities of the dead in New Orleans.

Occupying almost 55,000 sq meters in the center of Recoleta, the cemetery was consecrated in 1882 as Buenos Aires first public burial ground. Like the surrounding neighborhood, the graveyard quickly grew exclusive today its crowded with 4800 tombs holding the remains of the citys most famous families. Among the noteworthy names buried here are 19th-century president Domingo Sarmiento, twice-president Hiplito Yrigoyen, boxing legend Luis Angel Firpo (aka the wild bull of the pampas) and, of course, Eva Pern. But dont expect a grandiose monument to the former first lady. Evitas remains are contained in a simple black granite vault in a plot marked by her family name, Duarte.

The appeal of the cemetery goes well beyond the fame of its permanent residents the intriguing site is a maze of narrow passageways lined with crumbling marble statuary and decorative mausoleums in architectural styles from art nouveau to neo-Gothic. Follow a stray cat through the alleys to discover cherubs in stone relief, stained-glass windows edged with cobwebs, marble angels and bittersweet poetry etched into granite.

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BRIDGET GLEESON

In Buenos Aires, ftbol is not just a game. The national pastime inspires near-religious passion in porteos, clearing the city streets and sending spectators into fits of ecstasy and anguish as they huddle around TV screens or brave the explosive stadium crowds. Witnessing a match at La Bombonera, the famed stadium of Club Atltico Boca Juniors, is an unforgettable experience. But dont brave the volatile masses alone unless youre going to the game with a streetwise native, its best to book tickets through a tour operator ().

The citys rival teams symbolize distinct factions of porteo demography. Club Atltico River Plate (known simply as River) hails from the affluent north side, while Boca Juniors proudly represents the blue-collar south. La Bombonera, fittingly enough for Bocas home turf, sits smack in the center of one of the citys roughest barrios. Fifty-five thousand frenzied fans take to the stands on Sunday afternoons for two hours of drama; the stadium hums and vibrates as loyal supporters jump in time to rhythmic drum beats and scream at the officials.

The atmosphere is particularly boisterous (read out of control) when River and Boca face off during the much-anticipated Superclsico match. Choose between