Fodors Puerto Rico

Updated by Christopher Baker, Nicholas Gill, Marlise Kast, Charyn Pfeuffer, Heather Rodino

Sunrise and sunset are both worth waiting for when youre in Puerto Rico. The pinks and yellows that hang in the early-morning sky are just as compelling as the sinewy reds and purples that blend into the twilight. Its easy to compare them, as Puerto Rico is so narrow that you can easily have breakfast in Fajardo, looking eastward over the boats headed to Vieques and Culebra, then settle down for a lobster dinner in Rincn as the sun is sinking into the inky-blue water.

Known as the Island of Enchantment, Puerto Rico conjures a powerful spell. Here, traffic actually leads you to a Road to Paradise, whether youre looking for a pleasurable, sunny escape from the confines of urbanity or a rich supply of stimulation to quench your cultural and entertainment thirst. On the island you have the best of both worlds, natural and urban thrills alike, and although city life is frenetic enough to make you forget youre surrounded by azure waters and warm sand, traveling a few miles inland or down the coast can easily make you forget youre surrounded by development.

Puerto Rico was populated primarily by Tano Indians when Columbus landed in 1493. In 1508 Ponce de Len established a settlement and became the first governor; in 1521 he founded what is known as Old San Juan. For centuries, while Africans worked on the coastal sugarcane fields, the French, Dutch, and English tried unsuccessfully to wrest the island from Spain. In 1898, as a result of the Spanish-American War, Spain ceded the island to the United States. In 1917 Puerto Ricans became U.S. citizens, and in 1952 Puerto Rico became a semiautonomous commonwealth.

Since the 1950s, Puerto Rico has developed exponentially, as witnessed in the urban sprawl, burgeoning traffic, and growing population (estimated at nearly 4 million); yet en la isla (on the island) a strong Latin sense of community and family prevails. Puertorriqueos are fiercely proud of their unique blend of heritages.

Music is another source of Puerto Rican pride. Like wildflowers, velloneras (jukeboxes) pop up almost everywhere, and when one is playing, somebody will be either singing or dancing alongor both. Cars often vibrate with reggaetn, a hard, monotonous beat with lyrics that express social malaise. Salsa, a fusion of West African percussion, jazz, and other Latin beats, is the trademark dance. Although it may look difficult to master, its all achieved by just loosening your hips. You may choose to let your inhibitions go by doing some clubbing a la vida loca made famous by pop star Ricky Martin. Nightlife options are on par with any cosmopolitan cityand then some.

By day you can drink in the culture of the old world; one of the richest visual experiences in Puerto Rico is Old San Juan. Originally built as a fortress by the Spaniards in the early 1500s, the Old City has myriad attractions that include restored 16th-century buildings and 200-year-old houses with balustraded balconies of filigreed wrought iron that overlook narrow cobblestone streets. Spanish traditions are also apparent in the countryside festivals celebrated in honor of small-town patron saints. For quiet relaxation or experiences off the beaten track, visit coffee plantations, colonial towns, or outlying islets where nightlife is virtually nonexistent.

And of course you dont come to a Caribbean island without taking in some of the glorious sunshine and natural wonders. In the coastal areas, the sun mildly toasts your body, and youre immediately healed by soft waves and cool breezes. In the misty mountains, you can wonder at the flickering night flies and the star-studded sky while the coqus (tiny local frogs) sing their legendary sweet lullaby. On a moonless night, watch the warm ocean turn into luminescent aqua-blue speckles on your skin. Then there are the islands many acres of golf courses, numerous tennis courts, rain forests, and dozens of beaches that offer every imaginable water sport.

Happening clubs and discos make San Juan one of the Caribbeans nightlife capitals, rivaling even Miami.

Great restaurants run the gamut from elegant places in San Juan to simple spots serving delicious comida criolla.

Beachesboth developed and wildsuit the needs of surfers, sunbathers, and families.

Nature abounds, from the underground Ro Camuy to El Yunque, the only Caribbean national forest.

Puerto Mosquito: Kayak after dark on the astounding bioluminescent bay on Vieques.

Puerto Rico is 110 mi (177 km) long and 35 mi (56 km) wide. With a population of almost 4 million, its among the biggest Caribbean islands. The first Spanish governor was Juan Ponce de Len in 1508; he founded Old San Juan in 1521. The United States won the island in the Spanish-American war in 1917 and made it a commonwealth in 1952.

Restaurants

Hotels

Restaurants

Hotels

Restaurants

Hotels

Restaurants

Hotels

Beaches

Restaurants

Hotels

Beaches

Because of its size, Puerto Rico supports virtually any activity you might imagine. The west coast is one of the Caribbeans major surfing destinations; the north-central region has one of the worlds largest underground river systems for spelunking ; El Yunque is the only Caribbean entry in the national forest system and a mecca for hikers and mountain bikers.