Wechter Eric B. - Fodors St. Maarten, Anguilla, Saba, Statia & St. Barths

St. Maarten/St. Martin is virtually unique among Caribbean destinations. The 37-square-mi (96-square-km) island is a seamless place (there are no border gates), but it is governed by two nationsthe Netherlands and Franceand has residents from 70-some different countries. A call from the Dutch side to the French is an international call, currencies are different, and the vibe is even different. Only the island of Hispaniola, which encompasses two distinct countries, Haiti and the Dominican Republic, is in even a similar position in the Caribbean.

Happily for Americans, who make up the majority of visitors to St. Maarten/St. Martin, English works in both nations. Dutch St. Maarten might feel particularly comfortable for Americans, the prices are lower (not to mention in U.S. dollars), the big hotels have casinos, and there is more nightlife. Huge cruise ships disgorge masses of shoppers into the Philipsburg shopping area at midmorning, when roads can quickly become overly congested. But once you pass the meandering, unmarked border into the French side, you will find a bit of the ambience of the south of France: quiet countryside, fine cuisine, and in Marigot, a walkable harbor area with outdoor cafs, outdoor markets, and plenty of shopping and cultural activities.

Almost 4,000 years ago, it was salt and not tourism that drove the little islands economy. Arawak Indians, the islands first known inhabitants, prospered until the warring Caribs invaded, adding the peaceful Arawaks to their list of conquests. Columbus spotted the isle on November 11, 1493, and named it after St. Martin (whose feast day is November 11), but it wasnt populated by Europeans until the 17th century, when it was claimed by the Dutch, French, and Spanish. The Dutch and French finally joined forces to claim the island in 1644, and the Treaty of Concordia partitioned the territory in 1648. According to legend the border was drawn along the line where a French man and a Dutch man, running from opposite coasts, met.

Both sides of the island offer a touch of European culture along with a lot of laid-back Caribbean ambience. Water sports abounddiving, snorkeling, sailing, windsurfing, and in early March, the Heineken Regatta. With soft trade winds cooling the subtropical climate, its easy to while away the day relaxing on one of the 37 beaches, strolling Philipsburgs boardwalk, and perusing the shops on Philipsburgs Front Street or the rues (streets) of the very French town of Marigot. Although luck is an important commodity at St. Maartens 13 casinos, chance plays no part in finding a good meal at the excellent eateries or after-dark fun in the subtle to sizzling nightlife. Still, the isles biggest assets are its friendly residents.

Although the island has been heavily developedespecially on the Dutch sidesomehow the winding, unmarked roads escaped improvement. When cruise ships are in port (and there can be as many as seven at once), shopping areas are crowded and traffic moves at a snails pace. We suggest spending the days on the beach or the water, and planning shopping excursions for the early morning or at cocktail hour, after rush hour traffic calms down. Still, these are minor inconveniences compared with the feel of the sand between your toes or the breeze through your hair, gourmet food sating your appetite, or having the ability to crisscross between two nations on one island.

The smallest island in the world to be shared between two different countries, St. Maarten/St. Martin has existed peacefully in its subdivided state for more than 360 years. The Treaty of Concordia, which subdivided the island, was signed in 1648 and was really inspired by the two resident colonies of French and Dutch settlers (not to mention their respective governments) joining forces to repel a common enemy, the Spanish, in 1644. Although the French were promised the side of the island facing Anguilla and the Dutch the south side of the island, the boundary itself wasnt firmly established until 1817 and then after several disputes (16 of them, to be exact).

Visitors to the island will likely not even notice that they have passed from the Dutch to the French side unless they notice that the roads on the French side feel a little smoother. In 2003, the population of St. Martin (and St. Barthlemy) voted to secede from Guadeloupe, the administrative capital of the French West Indies. That detachment became official in February 2007, and St. Martin is now officially known as the Collectivit de Saint-Martin.

Grand Case is the islands gastronomic capital, but good food seeps from almost every island pore.

Phillipsburg is one of the best shopping spots in the Caribbean; with fewer bargains, Marigot is still chock-full of interesting stores.

Thirty-seven picture-perfect beaches are spread out all over the island.

The wide range of water sportsfrom sailing to waterskiing, from snorkeling to deep-sea fishingwill meet almost any need.

There is a wide variety of nightlife: shows, discos, beach bars, and casinos.

St. Maarten/St. Martin is home to approximately 77,000 people from some 70 different countries, but governance of the 37-square-mi (96-square-km) island is split between France and the Netherlands. Its the smallest island in the world divided between two ruling powers. The Dutch capital is Phillipsburg; the French capital is Marigot.

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