GREAT LAKES TRIPS
We know what youre thinking: the Midwest is flat. And boring. Why would anyone want to road-trip through a cornfield?
Now, now, theres no need for that, especially when you have red-cliffed Hwy 61 hugging Lake Superiors shore in Minnesota. And the Great River Rd rising and twisting along the Big Muddy in Illinois. And county roads snaking through cow-dappled hills in southern Wisconsin.
The Great Lakes themselves are huge, like inland seas, offering beaches, islands, dunes, resort towns and lots of lighthouse-dotted scenery. Dairy farms and orchards blanket the region, meaning fresh pie and ice cream await trip-takers, too. The Midwests big cities Chicago, Detroit and Cleveland provide the entertainment. Each rocks in its own special way, with the cultural sights to back up the Stratocasters.
And when the Midwest does flatten out? Theres always a goofball roadside attraction, like the meaty Spam museum or worlds biggest ball of twine, to revive imaginations. So buckle up, why doncha?
Nasty blues, smooth Motown, chest-thumping rock and tender punk make up our Midwest mix.
Highway 61 Revisited, Bob Dylan
Wang Dang Doodle, Koko Taylor
Skyway, Replacements
My City was Gone, Pretenders
Via Chicago, Wilco
ABC, Jackson Five
Fever, Buddy Guy
Seven Nation Army, White Stripes
TRIP 1
48 Hours in Chicago
TIME
2 days
BEST TIME TO GO
May Sep
START
Chicago, IL
END
Chicago, IL
WHY GO The Windy City will blow you away with its cloud-scraping architecture, lakefront beaches and world-class museums. Want to bike by Obamas house? Eat a gourmet hot dog? See a play before it exports to Broadway? Chicagos blend of high culture and earthy pleasures delivers the goods.
First things first: ditch the car. Exploring Chicago by foot and the elevated train system is the hassle-free way to go. In summertime, water taxis ply the river and lakefront, too.
Energize for the day ahead with a rocket-fuel cup of Intelligentsia Coffee. The local chain roasts its own beans, and the baristas know how to percolate them (staff won the US Barista Championship in 2009). Sip by the window and watch the crowds pass by theyre likely headed to Millennium Park, one block east.
Where to start amid the mod designs? Pritzker Pavilion, Frank Gehrys swooping silver band shell, on which the park centers? Crown Fountain, Jaume Plensas splashy water work, where images of locals spout gargoyle-style? Or the Bean (officially Cloud Gate), Anish Kapoors 110-ton, silver-drop sculpture? Thats the one. Join the visitors swarming it to see the skyline reflections. The park also offers free guided tours, free yoga classes (Saturday morning, on the Great Lawn) and free classical and world-music concerts all in summertime, of course, Chicagos snow-free season.
A silvery pedestrian bridge rises from the parks center and arches over to the Art Institute of Chicago. Damn, theres a lot of stuff hanging on the walls. Its the second-largest museum in the country, with masterpieces aplenty, especially Impressionist and Postimpressionist works. Georges Seurats pointillist Un Dimanche Aprs-Midi lle de la Grande Jatte (A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte) is here; so is Grant Woods American Gothic. The Modern Wing puts up Picassos and Mirs by the roomful. Youll be gawking for at least few hours, and needing a repast by the time you leave.
Fortunately, The Gage sits across the street. The gastropub dishes Irish-tinged grub with a fanciful twist, like Guinness-battered fish and chips or fries smothered in curry gravy. The booze rocks, too, including a solid whiskey list and small-batch beers that pair with the food.
By now its hotel check-in time. Architecture buffs can key in at the Hotel Burnham, housed in the landmark 1890s Reliance Building, the precedent for the modern skyscraper. Eco-guests can curb their carbon footprint at LEED-certified Hotel Felix (free parking if youre driving a hybrid).
CHICAGO BY BOAT, BIKE OR HOT DOG
Delve deeper into the city with a tour:
The Chicago Architecture Foundation (www.architecture.org) has boat and walking jaunts to various lofty monuments.
Bike Chicago (www.bikechicago.com) pedals to the South Side past Obamas house and hot spots.
Weird Chicago Tours (www.weirdchicago.com) takes buses to ghost, gangster and red-light sites.
Chicago Food Planet Tours (www.chicagofoodplanet.com) goes by foot to neighborhood pizza, pastry and hot-dog joints.
Walk west a block from Hotel Burnham to see The Picasso, a sculpture created by Mr Abstract himself and ensconced in Daley Plaza. Bird, dog, woman? Picasso couldnt decide either, which is why its officially titled Untitled. Across Washington St is another head-scratcher, this one by Joan Mir called The Sun, the Moon and One Star. More big-name public artworks pop up throughout downtown.
Make your way north on Michigan Ave, aka the Magnificent Mile. Bloomingdales, Saks and other swanky department stores are nothing you havent seen before, but its convenient to have them all in a row. The Tribune Tower raises its Gothic head on Michigan Aves east side soon after you cross the river. Check out chunks of the Taj Mahal, Parthenon and further famous structures embedded in the lower walls. Across the street, the Wrigley Building