Best Pacific Northwest Trips

BEST PACIFIC NORTHWEST TRIPS

If the United States has a proverbial end of the line, its the Pacific Northwest. This is where, amid the volcanoes and rain, people just seem to end up. Like the fur traders and trappers who braved the Oregon Trail in the 1800s, people leave their homes back east and down south to start anew up here. Artists and chefs leave New York and make Portland their home. Vintners head north from California and plant pinot noir, and techies abandon their jobs in Silicon Valley and become cheese makers in the Cascades. As much as the regions old-timers resent it (or talk like they do), people just keep coming and coming. Why? Travel the trips in this chapter and youll know. En route, youll discover hot springs steaming beneath dark forests of Douglas Fir, Portlands vibrant food scene, Seattles water-bound beauty, gorgeous national parks, Oregons epic coastline and some of the countrys finest wine (and beer!). You may, heaven forbid, be tempted to stay.

---

Whenever youre in radio-wave distance of Seattle, tune into KEXP (90.3 FM), which cranks out some of the best indie, old-school country and modern world music in the Pacific Northwest. The rest of the time, just play the following songs over and over again:

Chinese Translation, M Ward

Gone for Good, The Shins

Taking Too Long, The Wipers

Rose Parade, Elliott Smith

The Soldiering Life, The Decemberists

Druganaut, Black Mountain

Keep Your Eyes Ahead, The Helio Sequence

Northwestern Girls, Say Hi

Find Me in the Air, The Builders and the Butchers

Come as You Are, Nirvana

---

TRIP 1

WHY GO A little rain never hurt anybody. All the more reason to stroll through a museum or linger over coffee. The second the sun comes out, youll relish your time outdoors all the more, and the nonstop spectacle of rhododendron and evergreens will make the rain all seem worthwhile.

The heavily caffeinated Seattle coffee drinker isnt just a stereotype: Seattleites drink it all day long and lots of it so they can power through weather-induced energy lags. So start this trip the way locals start their every day: with a latte. Youll find chain coffee shops on every corner, but Zeitgeist Coffee, located in a converted warehouse space in downtown, is a great place to hang out and get caffeinated.

If you need something a little more solid to sustain you, head straight to Salumi. Known for their cured meats and cheeses, this deli owned by Mario Batalis dad serves downright addictive sandwiches that have people lining up out the door. They close at four and are only open Tuesday through Friday, so depending on your timing, this might be your only chance to indulge.

Ready for a little culture? The Seattle Art Museum is the place to get it. The collections span multiple genres, from modern to tribal to classic. Whether its Warhols version of a gun-slinging Elvis, Northwestern totem poles, or flowery stained glass, everyone will find something they wish they owned.

When youre done, pop around the corner and check out the Seattle Public Library, one of the most dazzling modern structures in the city. The building is made almost entirely of diamond-shaped panes of glass, and, on certain days, it manages to feel sunnier indoors than out. Be sure to check out the wow-inducing, 12,000-sq-ft reading room with 40ft glass ceilings.

For dinner, make reservations for Dahlia Lounge. Its an institution, and one of those rare places that locals and tourists seem to agree on. With crimson walls, fabulous desserts, and celebrity chef Tom Douglas, its an easy choice for dinner, but, if nothing else, stop by and get something sweet to go from the Dahlia Bakery next door.

If theres anything else besides coffee that Seattle is known for, its well, you already know, its live music. Check out the local listings to see whats playing. If youre not sure where to start, try Neumos for indie rock, Tractor Tavern for rockabilly, alt country and acoustic, or Chop Suey for an eclectic lineup that includes both live music and local DJs.

By now, youre surely ready for bed. Many travelers on a budget have found the Green Tortoise Hostel located mere steps from Pikes Market to be a cheap, pleasant and convenient place to bunk down for the night. Belltowns Ace Hotel is artsy in a hip, minimalist kind of way, although its more fit for heavy drinkers than light sleepers, since the downstairs bar is always hopping.

---

One of my favorite things to do in Seattle is rent a kayak and go out on Lake Union, especially when the weathers nice. You get great views of Downtown and the Space Needle, and you can row right by Gas Works Park, which has the neat old towers and generators from when it was a power plant.