Michaels - Explorers Guide Hudson Valley & Catskill Mountains

AN EXPLORERS GUIDE

The Hudson Valley & Catskill Mountains

Includes Saratoga Springs & Albany

Joanne Michaels

EIGHTH EDITION

The Countryman Press A division of W. W. Norton & Company Independent Publishers Since 1923

Copyright 1988, 1993, 1996, 1998, 2001 by Joanne Michaels and Mary-Margaret Barile

Copyright 2004, 2007, 2009, 2013 by Joanne Michaels

Eighth Edition

All rights reserved

For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to Permissions, The Countryman Press, 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110

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Explorers Guide Hudson Valley & Catskill Mountains
ISBN 978-1-581-57721-1 (e-book)
ISBN 978-1-581-57151-6 (pbk.)

Cover photo Bear Mountain Bridge, Hardie Truesdale, www.hardietruesdale.com
Interior photographs by the author unless otherwise specified
Maps by Moore Creative Design, The Countryman Press
Cover and interior design by Bodenweber Design
Composition by PerfecType, Nashville, TN

The Countryman Press
www.countrymanpress.com

A division of W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.,
500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110
www.wwnorton.com

To the people in my life who have supported, loved, and believed in me through the years, particularly Renee, Lawrence, Nancy, and Erik.

I have been very fortunate in my family and friends.

No entries for any of the establishments appearing in the Explorers Guide series have been solicited or paid for. I have selected lodging and dining places for mention in this book based on their merits alone. There is no charge to innkeepers or restaurant owners for inclusion. The decision to include a place here has to do with quality alone: The book is the best of the Hudson Valley and Catskill Mountains.

Please do not hold me or the owners of various establishments mentioned responsible for any prices listed as of press time in 2013. Some changes are inevitable. State and local taxes should be added to all prices, as well.

The price rating system is simple and provides general guidelines to travelers. By their nature, restaurants included in the Eating Out group are generally inexpensive. For entres in the Dining Out and Eating Out sections, in general:

$ means most entres are $15 and under

$$ means $1525

$$$ means above $25

For inns and bed & breakfasts (per room before tax):

$ means most rooms run $125 and under

$$ means $125200

$$$ means above $200

All B&Bs, inns, and restaurants are now smoke-free. If this is an issue for you, do inquire when you call. Assume that all establishments do not permit smoking anywhere.

Over the 25 years that this book has been in print, I have received many letters from readers throughout the country. If you would like to share any of your experiences, please contact me at P.O. Box 425, Woodstock, NY 12498, or e-mail .

I t is never possible to thank everyone who helps a book of this kind come to life; for every person I mention, several more were behind the scenes, answering questions, mailing brochures, offering suggestions, and opening their homes to me.

I want to particularly thank the members of the county tourism departments and chambers of commerce throughout the region who assisted me tremendously on my travels: Nancy Lutz of Dutchess County Tourism, Natasha Caputo of Westchester County Tourism, Patty Cullen of Delaware County Chamber of Commerce, Nancy Petramale of Greene County Tourism, Annie Cooper and Ann Marie Schaumann of Columbia County Tourism, Schuyler Bull of the Albany County Convention & Visitors Bureau, and Roberta Byron Lockwood of Sullivan County Tourism. Ann Marie Bellantoni at the Saratoga County Chamber of Commerce and Candace Bergman of the Gideon Putnam Resort were both enormously helpful as well.

The following people, who regularly travel throughout the Hudson Valley and Catskills, gave me excellent recommendations and support: Betsy Bergman, John and Nancy Bruno, Mark Cuddy, Helen Hosking, Nancy Michaels, Babs Moley, Bruce Moor, Gail and Alan Paley, Heather Rolland, and Michael Silfen. I sincerely appreciate their input. Hardie Truesdale did a wonderful job on the cover photograph. I would also like to thank Kermit Hummel and Lisa Sacks for their guidance through the publishing processand willingness to consider new ideas. Justine Rathbun paid enormous attention to details, and Im grateful to her. Tom Haushalter was exceedingly efficient in handling publicity for the book.

Many people gave their opinions and the names of their favorite spots, based on years of growing up and living in their respective towns. They probably didnt realize at the time how helpful they were. These locals got me off the beaten track, and I discovered charming neighborhood restaurants, tranquil back roads, and a swimming spot or hiking area I probably never would have found on my own. So this book, aside from being the best guide to this phenomenal region, is also a gift to all the people of the Hudson Valley and Catskills.

A lthough I am certainly not the first traveler to recognize the scenic wonders of the Hudson Valley and Catskills, I am proud to say that I have remained at the forefront of reminding people that some of the most beautiful sights in the world are, literally, at their back doors. A close friend once commented that by writing about these regional treasures, I am causing them to be overrun with tourists; he suggested I keep these special places to myself, or they will risk being ruined. I cannot deny that there are times when I have the impulse not to include a deserted swimming place I frequent in the summer or an undiscovered eatery on a back road I stopped at one day, but I know that sharing this information is what makes my book the best one available.

For more than 25 years, various editions of this guide have enriched the travels of tens of thousands of people visiting the region. Once in a while readers take the time to write a letter, sharing their experience of a particular inn or historic site. I have never heard anything but praise for the beauty of the Hudson Valley and Catskillseven if, on occasion, a particular restaurant didnt live up to their expectations.

When people think of this area, many imagine mysterious mountains where Rip Van Winkle slept away the years or lush valleys where bobcats roamed or even huge hotels where the entertainment and food never stopped. True, these are part of the regions story, but after traveling hundreds of thousands of miles on back roads and main roads, in snow, fog, sun, and rain, I have come to the conclusion that practically nowhere else in this country can one enjoy the startling beauty, the rich history, and the culture that can be found here.

And because there is so much to see and do, I chose to include only what I consider the bestbe it food, inns, parks, or history. At historic sites or places of interest, I looked for unusual exhibits or special events. When evaluating restaurants, inns, hotels, and B&Bs, I looked for value, distinctiveness, quality, cleanliness, and courtesy. Farm stands, whether large or small, had to show pride in their produce. I traveled the area in all seasons, talked to hundreds of people, and visited every historic and cultural site. In a few cases, if I couldnt experience a place myself, I talked to experts whose judgment I relied on to ensure that you are getting the recommendations of the best people, as well.