Pirolli Bryan - Paris Select

find Roman baths sticking up in the middle of a Gothic mansion, on
the other the glass pyramid at the Louvre and a shiny white UFO by
Zaha Hadid that has just landed at the Institut du Monde Arabe. Two
of the most recent cultural venues occupy both a converted theatre
and a former undertakers, new parks have been created around the
citys edges, and an entire new district is taking root above old railway
sidings around the new Bibliothque Nationale, along the Seine.

If there is one recommended requisite to making the most of the
city, it is curiosity. This is a place where you come to admire the
grand facades and imperious vistas, the world-renowned museums
and glorious churches but must also be everready to peer through
carriage doorways or wander down passageways to discover the hidden
gardens, concealed houses and workshops that make up the private,
intimate Paris behind the bravura. One of the most appealing aspects
of the city is that it is intensely lived in. Part of the fun of wandering
round the streets is discovering the local street market, the favourite
spot for a coffee and the best baker. Residents continue to privilege
what they call the style de vie lifestyle which means that for all the
apparent rush, there is always time to stroll around the food market or
sit at a caf terrace for coffee or an aperitif.

in the mood for...

... gastronomy

Evidence of the Parisians love of food can be seen everywhere from
street markets and busy lunchtime cafs to grand dining establishments.
While the image relayed abroad is often of elitist grand dining involving
squadrons of waiters and silver cloches recently awarded Unesco
heritage status and once-in-a-lifetime meals in the sumptuous
surroundings of Le Meurice () or Pierre
Gagnaire () , the reality is much more varied and depends on your
mood or budget. The mainstay are bistros and brasseries, trad places
such as Bistrot Paul Bert () , or budget
institution Chartier () . However many bistros are renewing the
genre, mixing tradition with modern seasonal dishes at Astier () ,
Mon Vieil Ami () ,
Christian Constants chic diner Les Cocottes ()
with its fusion touches always with an emphasis on quality ingredients
but retaining the informal mood and reasonable prices.

... romance

Paris enjoys an image as one of
the worlds most romantic cities,
yet what makes it romantic is
hard to pin down. Rather, it
all comes down to an endless
collection of the smallest things:
misty early morning views of the
quais of Ile St-Louis () , the
glamour of watching opera or
ballet ensconced in red satin and
velvet in a box at Palais Garnier
() , relaxing in the beautiful,
intimate square that is place des
Vosges () with its red brick
arcades, being lushly immersed
in foliage in the steamy Serres
dAuteuil () hot houses, the
timeless charm of a stroll along
the Canal St-Martin () or
the pathos of the cemetery at
Montmartre () . Then again,
romance might come in the
shape of a grand summer meal
for two under a parasol in the
gardens at Laurent () , or as a
memorable stay in a fine hotel
in a sweeping terrace suite at the
Shangri-La Paris () , where
the Eiffel Tower seems almost
close enough to touch perhaps,
or the indulgence of beams and
luscious fabrics at the Htel du
Petit Moulin () .

in the mood for...

... retail therapy

Paris lives up to its reputation as
a fashion capital with the couture
houses of avenue Montaigne
() and cutting-edge cuts at
Palais-Royal () . Those who
want to keep track of trends
follow groundbreaking concept
store Colette () and its alter
ego Merci () . And while the
grands magasins (pictured, )
offer an awe-inspiring choice, the
charm of Paris shopping lies in
the citys boutiques: say Shine
or Swildens in the Haut-Marais
() , or kitchen emporium E
Dehellerin () , an endearing
relic of the Les Halles market.

... observing Parisians

What could be more Parisian than
watching Parisians? Parisians excel
at it, sitting on caf terraces to see
and be seen. Maybe thats what
caf society is all about: spotting
famous faces at Caf de Flore
and Les Deux Magots () ,
sizing up the fashion brigade
at LAvenue () , inspecting
other peoples purchases at Caf
Charlot () . Catch the diversity
of streetlife at March dAligre
() , children
and charmers in the Jardin du
Luxembourg () , smart families
in Parc Monceau () , and
trendies at Chez Jeannette () .

... a view

Remember that Paris once boasted the tallest building in the world
the Eiffel Tower () and youll realise that there are plenty of
things to climb here: the steep tower of Notre-Dame Cathedral () ,
the gazebo in Parc des Buttes-Chaumont () , the dome of the
Panthon () . Some of the best views are the panoramas afforded
by the citys hills from the top of the steps leading up to the Sacr-
Coeur (pictured, ) , zooming into the city centre from the Parc de
Belleville () , across the Seine from the Domaine de St-Cloud
() . Perfect vantage points are often to be found not too high up but
at roof level: ideal for glimpses of private lives in apartments and secret
roof gardens; try the summer rooftop restaurants at Galeries Lafayette
and Printemps () , or the escalator ride up the Centre Pompidou