Raichlen - Miami spice: the new Florida cuisine

STEVEN RAICHLEN

WORKMAN PUBLISHING NEW YORK

To Barbara, Betsy, and Jake, the reasons I moved to Miami

Copyright 1993 by Steven Raichlen
Illustrations 1993 by Robin Zingone
Idella Parkers Biscuits, , adapted with the permission of Charles Scribners Sons, an imprint of Macmillan Publishing Company from CROSS CREEK COOKERY by Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings. Copyright 1942 by Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, renewed 1970 by Norton Baskin.

All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproducedmechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopyingwithout written permission of the publisher. Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allan & Sons Limited.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.
eISBN: 978-0-76116-439-5

Book illustration: Robin Zingone

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This book began with a romance between a cooking teacher and his student. The year was 1979. Into my class walked that most rare of creatures, a Miamian who was actually born and raised there. Our encounter led to a romance with nightly long distance phone calls (I was living in Cambridge, Massachusetts at the time). The calls led to more than thirty trips to Florida.

Over the next ten years of our long distance courtship and the three years Ive lived in south Florida, Ive watched Miami blossom from a gastronomic backwater to a culinary hot spot. Ive also met hundreds of extraordinary and talented people who have nurtured this book at every step along the way.

The first thanks goes to my wife, Barbara, for waiting all those years for a Yankee to decide to move to the tropicsand for putting up with a steady assault of recipe testing on our kitchen. Daughter Betsy and son Jake cheerfully endured a steady diet of strange tropical fruits and vegetables.

Elida Proenza, who seems more like a family member than a friend, graced this book with-dozens of recipes and food lore from her native Cuba. Michelle Bernstein proved to be a recipe tester extraordinaire. Marc and Kiki Ellenby of the LNB Groves kept me supplied with exotic fruits, while Maricel Presilla generously shared her encyclopedic knowledge of Hispanic history.

Many gifted chefs and restaurateurs contributed their recipes and vision of Floridian cuisine. Mark Militello, formerly of Marks Las Olas (and other Marks restaurants), was an endless source of inspiration and dining pleasure and a good friend to boot. There simply would not be a new Floridian cuisine without the creativity of individuals like Robbin Haas of Chispa, Doug Rodriguez, Allen Susser of Chef Allens, and Norman Van Aken of Normans and other restaurants.

Many farmers and fruit growers shared their horticultural expertise with me, including Pal Brooks, Stephanie Johnson, Keith Mitchell, Reed Olszack, and Bill Schaefer of J.R. Brooks & Son, Inc.; Jim Shine of the Florida Sugar Cane League; Richard Campbell of the Fairchild Tropical Garden; Quentin J. Roe of Wm. G. Roe & Sons, Inc.; Jonathan H. Crane, Ph.D. of the University of Florida; Chris Rollins of the Tropical Fruit and Spice Park; and Bill Lessard of the W.O. Lessard Nursery.

Equally generous with their knowledge were Floridas seafood experts and fisherfolk, including Daniel McLister of Manatee Bay Shellfish, Inc.; Ed Froehlich of Froehlichs Gator Farm; Joey Durante of Mariner Seafoods; Rick Madrigal of Claytons Crab; Clare Vanderbeek of the National Fisheries Institute, and frog and gator hunter, Norman Padget.

Id also like to thank baking guru Maida Heatter, former Miami Herald food editor Felicia Gressette, restaurant critic Lucy Cooper, Jacksonville Union writer Jonathan Rogers, and the Coconut Grove Writers Group for their expertise and support.

Suzanne Rafer graced my manuscript with her skillful and painstaking editing. Further polishing came from copy editor Mardee Regan. Lisa Hollander gave my words a design that says Floridas hot and wisely chose Robin Zingone to create the cover and book illustrations. Id also like to thank Peter Workman, Andrea Glickson, and the whole Workman staff for their enthusiasm and support.

Great drinks to beat the heat. Cool off with Mango Nectar, Rum Runners, and South Beach Sangria. Learn how to drink coffee like a Cuban.

From Yuca Fingers to Gator Bites, Miami snacks make for festive feasting. Tamales and Empanadas reflect Floridas Hispanic heritage, while Conch Fritters and Cod Puffs say try me in any language.

Cooling soups for summertime sipping include Smoked Gazpacho, Mangospacho, and Alligator Pear Soup. Soups like Bahamian Conch Chowder and Cedar Key Crab Bisque are great all year long.

Spice up your salad repertory with Black Bean Salad with Mango and Shrimp; Spinach, Blood Orange, and Macadamia Nut Salad; and Watermelon Salad with Kumquat Vinaigrette. Tips include an easy way to cut up a mango and how to peel fresh hearts of palm.

A bakers dozen of tropical breads, from Boniato Rolls to Pecan Corn Bread. Start your day with Floridian French Toast and Tangerine Butter, and end it with a Media Noche (Cuban midnight sandwich).

Sunshine Aoli, Banana-Molasses Ketchup, and Mango Mint Salsa are just a few of the tropical ways to spice up your meal. Heres a lively collection of Hispanic condiments, including Chimichurri and Mojo.

Tangerine Tuna, Shark en Escabeche, and Macadamia-Crusted Pompano make a great catch from Floridas waters. A gazeteer of tropical fish, from amberjack to wahoo.

Conch, stone crabs, and spiny lobster are a briny triumverate that delight seafood buffs from Key West to Tallahassee. Shrimp and Smokies, Curry Fried Frogs Legs, Sofrito Steamed Mussels, and more.

Feast on Florida fowl: Miami Wings, Bajan Roast Game Hens, Florida Quail With Shiitake Gravy, and Cuban Thanksgiving Turkey. Along the way, tour Little Haiti, meet a great Cuban cook, and master the art of peeling lychees.

Grill fever grips the Sunshine State, where Rum-Soaked Veal Chops with Pineapple Salsa, Nicaraguan Churrasco, and Jamaican Jerk Rack of Lamb vie for attention at backyard barbecues. Ropa Vieja (old clothes) and Vaca Frita (fried cow) are but two of the colorfully named meat dishes that make Florida a meat-lovers haven.

Round out an exotic Floridian main course with Haitian Pickled Slaw, Grilled Corn and Roasted Garlic Flans, Stuffed Chayote, Boniato Gratin, Gallo Pinto, Moros y Cristianos, Plaintain Mash, and Coconut Rice. Read up on bean cuisine and take a tour down Miamis Calle Ocho.

Key Lime Pie, Guava Cheesecake, Coconut Souffl, and Chocolate-Banana Sin Cake are but a few of the Sunshine State sweets that bring a tropical meal to a festive close. Tips on how to peel a pineapple, open a coconut, and tell a monstera deliciosa from a mamey.

Simmering Chicken and Fish Stocks, Coconut Milk, Orange Syrupeverything you need to know to cook Florida-style. Also, how to peel and seed a tomato and extract Annatto Oil. Plus a glossary of Floridian menu terms.

It was bound to happen. The regional food movement sweeping the nation had to arrive in Florida. After decades of dishing up Continental and California fare, Floridians have finally discovered the gastronomic treasures in their own backyard. In the process, weve captivated the taste of a nation that is hungry for fun, vibrant, tropical food that is loaded with flavor and healthy to boot.