Rayma - Make it up: the essential guide to DIY makeup & skin care

2016 Marie Rayma

Published by Running Press,

an imprint of Perseus Books, LLC

A Subsidiary of Hachette Book Group, Inc.

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Printed in China

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Library of Congress Control Number: 2016947728

E-book ISBN 978-0-7624-6117-2

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Digit on the right indicates the number of this printing

Edited by Cindy De La Hoz

Designed by Amanda Richmond

Photography on by Michael Reali

All other photography by Marie Rayma

Typography: Neutra and Sentinel

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Table of Contents

CONTENTS

(v) indicates recipes that are vegan or contain a vegan alternative

FOR MY READERS:

your support, insights, questions, enthusiasm,

and sharing are invaluable. Thank you a thousand times over,

I could not have done this without all of you.

Safe, natural cosmetics should not be expensive or hard to come bytheyre easy to make at home from inexpensive ingredients. With a bit of basic knowledge, some good recipes, and a selection of minerals and plant-based oils, you can ditch the drugstore and the beauty counter and whip up exactly what you need in your own kitchen.

I got my start with homemade natural bath and body products when a close friend wrote her thesis on the migration of chemicals from our body products into our bodies. She shared her findings and I was horrified. There were carcinogenic preservatives in my lotions, irritating synthetic surfactants in my shampoo, and petroleum products in just about everything. Yikes. I considered myself to be a careful personsomebody who read the labels of everything in the grocery store and made almost everything I ate from scratchand yet Id never really thought about what I was putting on my body, only in it.

A bottle of argan oil started my love affair with natural ingredients, and from there I branched out to shea butter, beeswax, cocoa butter, jojoba oil, and essential oils. With each new ingredient I tried a new creationfirst lip balm, then body butter, lotion, and soap. All were easier than Id ever imagined, and I loved having total control over my creations. I was hooked, and I want to get you hooked, too.

Getting into making your own cosmetics is a lot like deciding to try out a new cuisine. You love curry, but your Indian buffet habit is getting a bit out of hand, so when a cookbook with beautiful spices and creamy curries adorning the cover grabs your eye, you decide to start making your own. A few of the ingredients sound familiar, but some of them are totally foreign. Your neigh-borhood grocery store doesnt carry fenugreek or nigella seeds, and their coconut milk seems awfully expensive.

What you need here is the right place to shop and after that youre golden. The same is true with making your own cosmetics. The different butters, oils, and powders sound a bit strange, and your grocery store wont carry a lot of them, but thats okay. You might have a local shop that sells some of the ingredients youll need, but Ive found that local stores are usually substantially more expensive than their online alternatives, and the ingredients often arent as fresh.

So, youre going to want to shop online when making cosmetics. The selection and variety is fantastic, and the prices are as good as it gets. Youll probably have to pay for shipping, but youll still save over shopping locally. All that amazing selection can also be really overwhelming, so Ive made up some super-helpful for you (page 35). Youll probably spend about $150, which is roughly the price of a new tube of mascara, a new eye shadow palette, and some mineral makeup that probably doesnt quite match your skin tone. From those ingredients youll be able to make the equivalent of thousands of dollars of makeup at home!

While you wait for your ingredients to arrive, I recommend a trip to your local thrift or discount store for some equipment. If you already have a well-kitted kitchen, you might not need anything, but if youre interested in doing powdery stuff like mineral makeup, blush, and eye shadow, youll need to get yourself a dedicated DIY coffee grinder. Flexible silicone spatulas (look for sharp-edged jar spatulas) are also wonderful, and youll want a selection of pretty jars to put your concoctions into. Ive made a list of some kitchen things youll want to have on hand ().

Once your ingredients arrive at your doorstep, take some time to revel in your self-made Christmas morning. I usually cant resist plopping myself down on the floor with a pair of scissors to chomp through the layers of bubble wrap to my lovely new glass bottles full of exciting new oils and tubs of fluffy, colorful powders. Its awesome.

And now youre ready to dive in head first! Booyah. If youre a comfortable cook, youll find all of this far easier than youd have ever imagined. Even if youre not, if you can count, stir, and follow directions, youll be more than fine. Lets get started!

Tip: Store your ingredients somewhere cool, dry, and dark to get the longest shelf life out of them. I store my ingredients in my basement, but a closet or cupboard thats not right over a heating vent or oven is also a good choice.

WHAT IS MAKEUP?

In the general sense, makeup is a wide array of substances we apply to our bodies to change, alter, and/or improve our appearance.

Broadly, cosmetics fall into three categories. There are creamy, oil-based things like lipsticks, balms, serums, and eyeliner. There are powdery things, like eye shadow and blush, and there are thinner, emulsified things like lotions and toners that contain both oil and water.

Creamy, oil-based things are mostly made from blends of oils, butters, and waxes, with added colorants, scents, and other ingredients to help with slip (how it feels going on) and adhesion (how long it stays on). Store-bought cosmetics will generally use petroleum-derived oils and waxes blended with plant-based ones. Well be using strictly natural oils, waxes, and buttersingredients like beeswax, shea butter, cocoa butter, coconut oil, and argan oil.