Reinhart - Peter Reinharts Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor

Copyright 2007 by Peter Reinhart
Photography 2007 by Ron Manville
Photographs by Hazen Hunter

All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Reinhart, Peter.

Peter Reinharts whole grain breads : new techniques, extraordinary flavor / Peter Reinhart; photography by Ron Manville.

p. cm.

Includes index.

1. Bread. 2. Cookery (Cereals) I. Title.

TX769.R41875 2007

641.815dc22 2007106660

eISBN: 978-1-60774-130-5

Cover design by Nancy Austin
The is used with permission from the
Wheat Foods Council.

v3.1

This book is dedicated to my wife, Susan, who understood how hard this book would be to write, who got me through it, gave me time, space, and patience, and kept me sane. And to our oldest cat, Lily, who considered herself executive editor of all late night typing sessions, keeping me company and occasionally deleting passages with her head as it rested on the keyboard.

First of all, there are nearly 350 recipe testers that must be thanked again and again. The passion, perseverance, and dedication of these home bakers is the secret ingredient of this book. I will list them all at the end of this section, but want to acknowledge you all, as a group, right up-front.

In addition, there are many people and companies who lent their expertise and ingredients to my research. Thank you to Susan Miller, Jeffrey Hamelman, and the King Arthur Flour Company, as well as Paula LaBine and Tim Huff of General Mills. Both companies contributed many pounds of white wheat flour for testing as well as technical consulting from Jeffrey and Tim. Bill Weekly, who was the technical baker at SAF Yeast for nearly two decades and who has been one of my main go-to consultants for years, was, yet again, there for me when I needed him. A number of cereal chemists from the American Institute of Baking were also very helpful, explaining to me the challenges of whole grain baking in laymans language. Thank you to the Wheat Council for providing the wheat kernel graphic. Jeff and Janet Ganoung, of Great Harvest Breads of Charlotte, who not only wrote an excellent essay on the nutritional benefits of whole grains but also supplied me with freshly milled wheat and whole wheat kernels. Monica Spiller, Jennifer Lapidus, Debra Wink, and Emily Buehler also contributed extensive bread science essays, background stories, and research but we just ran out of pages to include them here (see the for how to access their excellent and important essays).

The Bread Bakers Guild of America is the single greatest source of collective artisan and craft baking knowledge in America and without its generous members, like Dave Miller, Michel Suas, Craig Ponsford, Didier Rosada, Abe Faber, Ciril Hitz, Richard Miscovitch, Mitch Stamm, Gina Piccolina, and many others, I would know far less than I do and would never have been able to connect the dots of my bread journey.

Johnson and Wales University in Charlotte, North Carolina, under the leadership of President Arthur Gallagher and Culinary Deans Karl Guggenmos, Peter Lehmuller, and Wanda Copper, has been exceedingly generous and accommodating, allowing me both time and space to complete this book and to test the formulas. My campus bread baking colleagues, Chefs Harry Peemoeller, Jeff Alexander, and Sadruddin Abdullah provided ongoing support and ideation. A special thanks to Chef Joseph Benedetto, who spent many hours working up the nutritional analysis on his trusty ESHA program. And to Laura Benoit for her sharp proofread.

Thanks also to Steve Bardwell and Gail Lunsford of Wake Robin Farm Breads in Marshall, North Carolina, for organizing the annual Asheville Bread Festival, a source of inspiration and key breakthroughs in the writing of this book.

Thanks to Jan Byers and folks at the Westeye Group in Charlotte for letting us use their Wolf/Sub Zero kitchen showroom for many of our photo sessions.

A very special thank you to photographer Ron Manville for his tremendous dedication, investment, and commitment to this project, and for his willingness to go beyond the call of duty to intuit and create the kind of photos for this book that Ive been dreaming about for years.

Thank you to my classmates and the faculty at Queen Universitys creative writing MFA program for workshopping the opening chapter of this book and helping me become a better writer.

Thanks also to my agent, Angela Miller, my legal advisor, Ted Grabowski, and to my chiropractor, Dr. Ralph Burris, who kept me functional when my back wanted to quit (and almost did).

Finally, enormous thanks to the wonderfully patient and collaborative creative team at Ten Speed Press who offered the full resources of their publishing house to evoke the full potential of this book: Owner Phil Wood; Publisher Lorena Jones; Editorial Director Aaron Wehner; my tireless editor, Meghan Keeffe; Art Director Nancy Austin; and Publicist Lisa Regul. Thank you also to Jasmine Star, Mike Ashby, and Ken DellaPenta for excellent copyediting, proofreading, and indexing, respectively.

Again, thank you to the following recipe testers around the world, many of whom who helped identify problems with early prototypes and bring about the breakthroughs that are presented in this book. I hope to meet each of you and thank you personally: Peter Achleitner, Kirsi Allison-Ampe, Alice Ammons, D.J. Anderson, Burleigh Angle, Annie Angle, Raj B. Apte, Pedro Arellano, Michael Arnoldi, Deb Arsenault, Christine Ashburn, James Bairey, Stefan Baumann, Deborah Bede, Gilles Belin, Ina Bellmann, Barbara Bendix, Carla Benedict, Jim Bennett, Irene Bensinger, Barb Blackmore, Mary Blender, Gea Blok, Carla Bone, Jane Borden, Malcolm Boshier, Craig Broderson, Carlton Brooks, Bonni Brown, Diane Brown, Doris Bruntel, Ruth Brutz, Ian Buchanon, Steve Buckner, Sylvia Burgos, Dawn Burstyn, Lucy Burton, Amanda Butter field, Michele Caplan, Bryan Carmenati, Mary Cassidy, Karen Chen, Dana Chiu, Ken Chomic, David Chow, Donna Clancy, Julie Clawson, Jim Clayton, Allen Cohn, Carol Beth Coleman, Sylvia Conard, Kevin Contzen, Margaret Cope, Ann Cornelius, Diane Cotton, Keith Craig, Lori Crews, Bill and Leisel Cruise, Ray DEsposito, Christine Dalrymple, Lisa Danchak-Martin, Carolyn Dandalides, Jon Davis, Matt Deatherage, Cindy DeCesare, Andre de Graaf, G. Owen Delaney, Robert C. Dempsey, Arthur Denys, Kathy Destadio, Nancy DeVries, Darci DeWulf, John DeYoung, Aranka Dol, Pat Doucette, John Dougherty, Lisa Downing, Pauline Dysko, Barbara Edwards, Karina Egloff, Tony Ernst, Adila Esbhani, Arlene Etzold, Jeff McBride, Jill Farrimond, Pat Fields, Natalie Fine, Laura Fischer, Carol Fisher, Steven Flanagan, Floyd Foess, Dennis Foley, Jason Fout, Cindy Frederick, Paul Friedman, Eric Fung, Kathleen Gahan, Mario Garcia-Rios, Claire Garner, Wil Gatliff, Brian J. Geiger, Lee Geyer, Marti Giacopelli, Angelina Glas-Kanis, Dave Glaze, Lonni Goldman, Rosalynn Gorski, Halina Gostkowski, Darryl Gould, Diana Gray, Kathy Green, Melissa Greene, Barbara Grimes, Jeff Grimm, Cynthia Grob, Phil Gross, Jon Grube, Jammie Gundersen, Dan Haggarty, Rich Halbert, Mike Haney, Cindy Hannah, Matt Hansen, John Hart, Tammy Hart, Becky Hart, John Hartley, Karen Hawkins, Gordon Hayes, Kevin Hayes, Maxwell Heathcott, Suzette Heiman, Barb Hein, Dulcey Heller, Dougal Hendry, Sue Hermosillo, Sara Herpolsheimer, Trent Hill, Brenda Hock, Petra Holzapfel, Nilgun Hoodbhoy, Robert Huffman, Bob Hunter, Aaron Hyman, Connie Hyman, Jennifer Iverson, Erik Jacobs, Carol Jamison, Huiling Johnson, Joanne Johnson, Norma Johnson, Paul Johnston, Steven Benford, Michael Jubinsky, Rhonda Kaya, Kate Kelly, Cynthia Kepler, Gretchen Kern, Jen Kettering, John Kino, Soep Kipje, Dan Klinger, Tim Knight, Daina Kojelis, Katie Kondo, Bob Koontz, Alex Kowalczul, Sandy Krause, Steve Krause, Merry Gay Lape, Carol Lauffer, Kathi Lazzarini, Dorothea C. Lerman, Benjamin Licciardi, Karen Lichti, Barb Lindsay, Wan Yan Ling, Jay Lofstead, Rachael Lohr, Sandi Long, Carla Low, Floyd Mann, Tom Marino, Joy Martin, Lisa Martin, Amber Matthews, Sheila Mayer, Jeff McBride, Donna McFerren, Noelani McGadden, Lori McKiernan, Jackie Messina, Leslie Meyer, Marti Mikels, Jeff Miller, Lou Mitchell, Leigh Monichon, Mark Montgomery, Robin Mordfin, Roxanne Morgan, Francine Morin, Can Necaf, Erin Nesmith, Adam Newey, Eve Ng, Phann Ngauv, Karen Noll, Kim Ode, Ed Okie, Evan Oulashin, Fran Padilla, Jennifer Park, Greg Parks, Lynne Paschetag, Thomas Passin, Helene Payette, Joan Pelletier, Larry Peters, Carol Peters, Brandon Pettit, Suzanne Pickett, Stephen Pitman, Kathi Plomin, Josie Plungas, Maureen Potter, Martin Pozzo, Ruth Provance, Diane Purkiss, Linda Rawson, Gary Redmond, Nancy Reeve, Cathy Reichel, Hesz Rivera, Pat Robb, Susan Robeck, Emma Robertson, Chuck Robinove, Debbie Rogers, Elaine Rosenfield, Rebecca Ross, Frederick Ross, Teresa Rouzer, Caroline Rumsey, JoAnn Rupert, Eric Rusch, Harold Russ, Georgia Sabourin, Madelyn Salyer, LaDonna Saria, JoAnne Sawyer, Saudra Scarce, Lynda Schemansky, Pauline Schettini, Lynn Schick, Jane Schiraldi, Barbara Schmitt, Nancy Schol, Joe Schreiber, Robert Schroeder, Susan Schwarting, Daniel F. Schwarz, Joan Scruggs, Gail Sears, Jennifer Seiger, Phillip Seitz, Maria Enid Serrano, Kent Servant, Susanne Shavelson, Tom Shavlik, Laura Shaw, Steve Shelton, Beth Sheresh, Reed Sheridan, Jeanne Shi, Lauren Shive, Daniel Siegel, Philip Silverman, Renee Slazinski, Amy Smereck, Samantha Smith, Tami Smith, Jill Smith-Mott, Ben Sostrin, Susan Sperry, Alexander Spurgeon, Mary J. Stackhouse, Mike Stancliff, Pete Stawasz, Miriam Stengel, Camille Stephens, Carol Stevens, Lorraine Fina Stevenski, Pam Stowe, Richard Stringfellow, Mark Strobel, Amy Stromberg, Jessica Su, Matthew Swift, Susan Tarman, Hilary Tatem, Linda taylor, Debby Taylor, Adam Tenner, Susan Tenney, Keng Ngee Teoh, Eric Thompsson, Jessica Tomasi, Bill Trapp, Sue Trimble, Geraldine Tulane, Katy Valentine, Renee Van Hoy, Rita van Hulst, Nancy Wajda, Kyle Warendorf, Sue Waudby, Al Wegener, Stephen Weinberg, Beth Weiss, Jessica Weissman, Bill Welch, Evie Werthmann, Ulrike Westphal, Kathy Wetherell, Stanley Wheeler, Gary White, David Widaski, Russ Wiecking, Petra van der Wielen, Murray Wilcox, Chris Wilson-Grady, Debra Wink, Sharon Wong, Alan Woods, Jude Woods, David Wright, John Wright, Sharon Wright, Shawn Wright, Lucille Yackowski, Joy Zbinden, Dick and Maggie Zieg, John Zingheim, and Lindsey Zucker.