Richmond - Korea Travel Guide

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Split by a fearsome border, the Korean Peninsula offers the traveller a dazzling range of experiences, beguiling landscapes and 5000 years of culture and history.

Cityscape, Gangnam, Seoul ()
FLICKR RENAN4 / GETTY IMAGES

The blue and red circle at the heart of the South Korean flag neatly symbolises not only the divided Korean Peninsula, but also the fluid mix of ancient and modern aspects of the country officially called the Republic of Korea (ROK), where the vast majority of visitors to this part of the world will spend their time. South Korea is a dream destination for the traveller, an engaging, welcoming place where the benefits of a fully industrialised, high-tech nation are balanced alongside a reverence for tradition and the ways of old Asia.

Academics still quibble over whether the Land of the Morning Calm (a term coined by travel writer Percival Lowell in 1885) is an accurate translation of the old Chinese characters by which all of Korea was once known. Dive into Seoul, the powerhouse of Asias third-largest economy, and calm is the last thing youll feel. This round-the-clock city is constantly on the move, its work hard, play hard population the epitome of the nations indefatigable, can-do spirit. Founded on centuries of tradition that manifest in the daily pageantry of the changing of the guard at meticulously reconstructed palaces, or in the chants of a shaman on a hillside, Seoul is nonetheless a contemporary urban marvel. You can hardly turn a corner without stumbling across a tourist information booth, a subway station or a taxi that will smooth the way to your next discovery in this multifaceted metropolis.

South Koreas compact size and superb transport infrastructure mean that tranquillity is achievable within an hour of the urban sprawl. Hike to the peaks of craggy mountains enclosed by densely forested national parks. Get further off the beaten path than you thought possible by sailing to remote islands, where farming and fishing folk welcome you into their homes and simple seafood cafes. Sample the serenity of a Buddhist temple retreat where the honk of traffic is replaced by the rhythmic pre-dawn chants of shaven-headed monks. If all this sounds a little too peaceful for your travel tastes, rest assured the ROK also knows how to rock. A countrywide itinerary of lively festivals and events means theres almost always a celebration of some sort to attend, and friendly Koreans are happy to share their culture with visitors, regardless of language barriers. If nothing else, your tastebuds will be tingling at the discovery of one of Asias least known, but most delicious, cuisines.

Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seoul ()
EURASIA PRESS / PHOTONONSTOP / CORBIS

The Palace of Illustrious Virtue () was built in the early 15th century as a secondary palace to Gyeongbukgung; these days this Unesco World Heritagelisted property exceeds Gyeongbukgung in beauty and grace partly because so many of its buildings were actually lived in by members of royal family well into the 20th century. The most charming section is the Huwon, a secret garden that is a royal horticultural idyll. Book well ahead to snag one of the limited tickets to view this special palace on the moonlight tours held during full-moon nights in the warm months.

SJ. KIM / GETTY IMAGES

Hiking around Jeju-do

The frequently dramatic volcanic landscape of Jeju-do, the largest of South Koreas many islands, is best seen on foot. Climbing to the summit of Hallasan () is a network of 26 half- to one-day hiking routes that meander around the islands coast, part of the hinterland and three other islands. Spending a day following all or part of a trail is a wonderful way to soak up Jejus unique charms and beautiful surroundings.

Hallasan National Park
TOPIC PHOTO AGENCY / CORBIS

Boryeong Mud Festival

Every July, thousands of people converge upon the unsuspecting (but fully welcoming) town of Boryeong and proceed to jump into gigantic vats of mud. Welcome to the Boryeong Mud Festival (see boxed text, ). The official line is that the local mud has restorative properties but one look around and its clear that no one really cares for much except having a slippery sloshin messy good time. Mud aside, this foreigner-friendly and very high-profile festival also features concerts, raves and fireworks. A tip: dont wear anything you want to keep!

AFP / GETTY IMAGES

Suwons Hwaseong Fortress

Built as an act of filial devotion and heavily damaged during the early-20th-century colonisation period and then the Korean War, the restoration of this Unesco World Heritage Site () began in the 1970s and is now almost finished. A detailed 1801 record of its construction has allowed the 5.52km-long wall and the Hwaseong Haenggung (a palace for the king to stay in during his visits to Suwon) to be rebuilt with great historical accuracy. A walk around the wall takes you through four grand gates.

Fortress observation tower
THOMAS ARTHUR / GETTY IMAGES

Cheong-gye-cheon

A raised highway was demolished and the dug up ground revealed this long-buried stream (). The effort has transformed Seouls centre, creating a riverside park and walking course that provides a calm respite from the surrounding commercial hubbub. Public art is dotted along the banks of the stream and many events are held here, including a spectacular lantern festival in November, when thousands of giant glowing paper and paint sculptures are floated in the water. Theres also a good museum where you can learn about the history of the Cheon-gye-cheon.