To Steve, Cynthia, Ron, and Patrick,
and our summers in the mountains
More and more, sharing a meal with friends and family has changed from an everyday occurrence to a less common affair. So when you do gather with loved ones, the event should be savored.
Any meal is just that more convivial when it takes place outside with the warm summer sun shining down on everyone involved. The self-appointed cook is happily ensconced at the grill, the kids are running around the yard letting off steam, and other folks are relaxing with a tall glass of iced tea.
Equinox dates do not a season make. At our house, summer is not just designated by dates, but by the food we eat from Memorial Day to Labor Day. During the course of the summer, the days are marked by when I first enjoy foods that I can only have in June, July, and August. The first buttered ear of corn, a beautifully juicy peach, basil with its distinctive spicy scent, a ripe homegrown tomato, a crunchy fried soft-shell crab, and more are all celebrated through my summertime cooking. I also have a mental checklist of particular summertime disheslobster rolls, grilled hamburgers and hot dogs with homemade condiments, fresh berry or peach piesthat I am sure to prepare before autumn chills the air.
Although my town is in a very densely populated suburban area, it is blessed with nearby farmland and a plethora of farmers markets and farm stands. My menus are decided by what is in season locally and at the peak of its flavor. During the summer, Ill sometimes zero in on the expected tomatoes, herbs, summer squash, eggplants, berries, stone fruits, cucumbers, and the like. But just as often, Ill find myself face-to-face with something that I havent cooked with in years, like gooseberries or currants. Ive used them all in this book. Ive also given some shopping tips on how to choose and prepare some of these fruits and vegetables.
Summer Gatherings offers recipes to cook for and with loved ones for both everyday meals and special occasions. Whether it is a holiday cookout, a kick-back brunch with weekend guests, or a weeknight supper, food has to get on the table. While it has always been my goal to provide tasty recipes with the most flavor for the least effort, summer is a particularly relaxed time when people dont want to spend a lot of time in a hot kitchen. These recipes are purposely casual in execution. Stripped to their essentials, they are uncomplicated by extraneous sauces or fussy garnishes. There are a couple of recipes for large gatherings that may take a bit more time (and can be prepared well ahead of serving), but in general, youll average fifteen to thirty minutes of actual hands-on labor to make these dishes. Make-ahead and storage instructions are provided. Some cooks consider themselves nonbakers, but I guarantee you that the baked goods in this book can be made by novices with professional-tasting results.
It is a well-known tenet of cooking that your food will only be as good as your ingredients. The great news about summer cooking is that, with proper shopping, the produce is so delicious that you are already halfway there in creating a terrific meal. As I developed recipes for this book, time and again I was struck by the flavors of local, seasonal produce. Sure, you can buy peaches in February, but what are they going to taste like? Cooks are becoming increasingly aware of how the fuel used to transport produce around the world is impacting our environment, and of the efficiency of cooking with local ingredients. While this is not a book about sustainable agriculture, it is hoped that you will find cooking with food from your regions farms so flavorful that you will look for ways to buy local as much as possible.
So whether you are putting together a menu for a Fathers Day backyard barbecue, a Fourth of July clambake, a graduation buffet, or a quick weeknight dinner, Summer Gatherings will help you create easy dishes that rejoice in the seasons bounty.
Apricots with Goat Cheese and Hazelnuts
Grilled Pizza with Corn, Monterey Jack, and Cilantro
White Peach Bellini Freezes
Heirloom Tomato and Cheese Tart
Quick Sweet and Sour Pickles
Fried Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms
Eggplant and Red Pepper Dip
Frozen Watermelon-Mint Daiquiris
Iced Tea-Ade
Apricots with Goat Cheese and Hazelnuts
Makes 18 pieces
My friend, cookbook author Linda Eckhardt, brought these to a cookout, and they disappeared. The combination of sweet apricot, tart goat cheese, and crunchy nuts is irresistible. If you wish, substitute pistachios (they dont need to be skinned) for the hazelnuts.
cup hazelnuts
9 ripe apricots
4 ounces rindless goat cheese, at room temperature
- Position an oven rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350F. Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet. Bake, stirring occasionally, until the hazelnut skins are cracked, about 12 minutes. Transfer the nuts to a clean kitchen towel and let cool until easy to handle. Using the towel as an aid, rub the skins off the hazelnuts (but do not worry about removing every trace of skin!). Cool completely. Coarsely chop the hazelnuts and place them in a shallow bowl.
- Cut the apricots in half lengthwise and remove the pits. If desired, cut large apricots in half again. Spread the cut sides with the goat cheese. Press the goat-cheese side of each apricot into the hazelnuts to evenly coat the cheese. (The apricots can be prepared up to 4 hours ahead, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.) Arrange the apricots on a platter and serve.
Apricots
Apricots herald the arrival of early summer. It was just recently that my long aversion to these yellow-orange fruits was finally broken. When I was growing up, our backyard in California was shaded by a large, prolific apricot tree. No matter how sweet the fruit, nor how beautiful the tree was in bloom, I hated apricots. One of my household chores was cutting the lawn, and the many sticky orbs that dropped from the tree got in the way of my job. Now that a few years have passed, I have finally let go of my prejudice.
The best apricots have a honeylike sweetness. And they are good for you, high in fiber, beta carotene, and vitamin A. Apricots should be chosen as for peaches. Look for fragrant fruit that barely yields to the touch, and let them ripen, if necessary, at room temperature. Their skins are thin, and you rarely have to peel them for cooking. Almost all commercial apricots are grown in California, but because early picking makes for less tasty fruit, it is best to search out a local source where the fruit may be tree-ripened. I can buy Red Jacket apricots in New York State, and they are treasures.
Grilled Pizza with Corn, Monterey Jack, and Cilantro
Makes one 12-inch pizza, 4 appetizer servings
Grilled pizza was developed by George Germon and Johanne Killeen at Al Forno Restaurant in Providence about twenty years ago. At first, no dish seemed stranger, and now it is a national institution. This is a cross-cultural pizza with Mexican flavors, but it is a happy marriage. While you could make a couple of pizzas to serve as a main course, I find it more efficient to make a single pizza as an appetizer, accompanied by ice-cold beers or margaritas.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, crushed through a press
All-purpose flour, for the dough and pan
One 15-ounce package pizza dough, at room temperature
11/3 cups (about 5 ounces) shredded Monterey Jack, divided
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