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Duncan Welgemoed - Africola: Slow food fast words cult chef

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Book:
Africola: Slow food fast words cult chef
Author:
Duncan Welgemoed / James Brown
Publisher:
Murdoch Books
Genre:
Books / Home and family
Year:
2020
Rating:
4 / 5
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Africola: Slow food fast words cult chef: summary, description and annotation

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The number of tourists travelling to South Africa in the last decade has steadily risen year upon year, with 16 million visiting in 2019 alone. People are drawn to the country by the culture, landscape and more often than not, the impressive cuisine which reflects nourishment, survival and love.Wanting to acknowledge his heritage, and frustrated by the tunnel-vision of Michelin star cooking, Duncan has created Africola to encompass the rich and varied flavours of his childhood with a fearless, daring approach.The food which Duncan cooks is all about using sustainably sourced, low-impact-on-the-earth ingredients (carefully sourced meats, fish, vegetables, grains, pulses, seaweed, algae, shellfish) to create dishes that open another box in your palate and in your mind. There is a slew of intensely flavourful, veg-forward dishes, a culinary encyclopaedia of ferments, condiments and pickles along with a solid pastry section and a bunch of ridiculous cocktails.With a soundtrack to accompany the cooking, Africola is nothing short of unique, with bold recipes and raw enthusiasm to inspire every chef from amateur to professional.

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South African by birth Duncan was head chef at The Goose at Britwell Salome - photo 1

South African by birth Duncan was head chef at The Goose at Britwell Salome - photo 2

South African by birth, Duncan was head chef at The Goose at Britwell Salome, Watlington, Oxford when it was awarded a Michelin star in 2005 and has also worked at Le Manoir aux QuatSaisons. In early 2010, he arrived in South Australia and opened Africola in 2014. Over the years, Duncan has become Adelaides (un)official spirit animal - mythical beast, troublemaker, conversation starter. His latest restaurant, Africola, tells a story close to his heart. It has since been awarded 4.5/5 Australians by The Australians food editor John Lethlean, featured in countless magazines, newspapers and TV shows around the world and frequented by rockstars and celebrities alike. Business partner, James Brown, runs a design agency and has designed the interiors of Africola and many iconic venues including Hong Kongs Happy Paradise, Balis Motel Mexicola (the most instagrammed hotel in the world) and Melbournes Hotel Jesus.

Together, they are a formidable creative force.

Duncans approach to food is fearless take-no-prisoners bold and exciting - photo 3

Duncans approach to food is fearless, take-no-prisoners, bold and exciting, inspired by his South African heritage. If his multi-awarded, South Australian-based restaurant Africola was a type of music, it would be a full-on mash-up of Kwaito meets Euro pop meets black metal. His food is cooked on fire, in embers or ashes, in ovens, or cast iron pots from whole smoked pig South African/Australian style, to homemade biltong, hot smoked mackerel and horseradish, whole roasted cauliflower with tahini sauce, and the worlds greatest roast potato recipe for complete idiots. Duncans words arent pretty, and hes refreshingly honest about the highs and lows of his industry and the people within it, delivering home truths for cooks and chefs alike. These recipes include an amazing array of meats, as well as seafood and a slew of intensely flavourful, veg-forward dishes.

There is also a culinary encyclopaedia of ferments, condiments and pickles adding richness and complexity to any dish along with a solid pastry section and a bunch of ridiculous cocktails. Come party with us #youbuygold #africolasoundsystem #afropunkoz

Ah Africola That special place where Africa meets Adelaide art meets - photo 4

Ah, Africola! That special place where Africa meets Adelaide, art meets science, and wretched excess is never enough. Is it a thought or is it a feeling? It is a rainbow nation at peace with itself and the world. And handy with the peri-peri, to boot. PAT NOURSE, WRITER AND FOOD CRITIC The food of Africola is like no other. I was knocked out by the sheer zinging freshness of it, the shots of pure flavour that leave your taste buds rejoicing and a huge smile on your face.

Its a dazzling celebration of food, a stunning blend of ancient and modern. Duncan conjures up food with attitude, borne out of a deep understanding and love for his craft. Hes a taste wizard! BILL BAILEY, COMEDIAN, BLACK BOOKS Duncan is the best thing Ive ever had in my mouth. LYDIA LUNCH, SINGER, POET, ACTRESS Africola and Duncan Welgemoed represent a visceral, intrepid and fearless approach to cooking. They lead and dont check the rear-view mirror to see whos following. The flavours, textures and colours are amped up to punk rock levels.

Africolas informal approach to presentation makes one feel at home, but its a home from another dimension. I never miss an opportunity to dine there. BRIAN RITCHIE, VIOLENT FEMMES Africola and Duncan Welgemoed are inseparable. Even if hes not there, hes there. Thats why the place is unique. Between his ears in that big, boofy head is a big boofy brain.

Between his shoulders roughly is a big boofy heart. And between his legs is the soul of a chef who just loves to cook for people. Its a meal deal combo thats hard to refuse. JOHN LETHLEAN, CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC, THE AUSTRALIAN Ive still never seen him cook:( MATTY MATHESON, FROM DEAD SET ON LIFE AND AUTHOR OF MATTY MATHESON: A COOKBOOK As a person, Duncan is absolutely forgettable. Hes kind of like the bus driver of chefs. But his food! Good lord is it average.

In a glorious way. MAYNARD JAMES KEENAN, TOOL, A PERFECT CIRCLE, PUSCIFER, CADUCEUS Duncan is not a chef, he is a kitchen dungeon master. To experience his food is not merely to eat its to hang on with white knuckles during an uncontrollable, untraceable tornado blast that leaves the subject whimpering in a submissive and blissful state. His aesthetic feels like culinary S&M. And my goodness, I surrender. So should you, if you know whats fucking good for you ...

MIKE PATTON, FAITH NO MORE, MR BUNGLE

I MARCO PIERRE WHITE Foreword I WAS JUST A BOY WATCHING THE SHOW UNRAVEL - photo 5

I MARCO
PIERRE WHITE Foreword I WAS JUST A BOY WATCHING THE SHOW UNRAVEL

Let me take you back to the late 1970s The world of gastronomy was very small - photo 8

Let me take you back to the late 1970s The world of gastronomy was very small - photo 9

Let me take you back to the late 1970s. The world of gastronomy was very small in Britain and there were only a few great restaurants Le Gavroche, Box Tree, The Connaught and Mirabelle. In those days I was just an apprentice working at Le Gavroche. Alongside me was an exceptional individual called Duncan; I cant pronounce his surname, so I wont attempt to try. When I met Duncan he was a premier commis on the fish section. He was under the guidance of a man called Roland Lahore.

Lahore was, without question, the toughest of all teachers. He had done his training with three-star Michelin Le Troisgros in Roanne. Lahore was no ordinary fish chef; he was an artist, and Duncan had it brutal under him. Duncan worked tirelessly just to survive service. But what was amazing was watching his talent grow. In the end, Lahore was promoted to sous chef and Duncan was promoted to chef poissonnier, overseeing the fish section at the age of 20.

Watching him work the pans was like Chopin playing the piano; initially alarming, soothing on a revisit, and with a sexuality nobody could quite figure out. Alongside him sur le boeuf was Paul Bocuse, and together the two controlled the kitchen. Both geniuses in their own right, and me, I was just a boy watching the show unravel. The competitiveness between Bocuse and Duncan was extraordinary. While both of them delivered what Albert Roux required, Michel Roux was in the background baking and making his little French cakes. Within 6 months Duncan had taken over the meat section as Bocuse had returned to Lyon.

Tiring of producing sublime dishes 6 days per week for more than a year, it was finally time for him to leave. He had taken a job at the famous Maxims in Paris, under the guidance of Pierre Koffmann. After another 6 months he called me from Maxims and asked if I wanted a job. I took the job on the meat section working directly under Duncan. We were producing dishes such as Noisettes of lamb and Potage Billy By and, I must be honest, I have never in my life learned so much in such a short time. The team as it stood was Alain Chapel on the fish, Keith Floyd on veg, Roger Verg on garnish, Duncan on meat, Raymond Blanc in the pastry and, let us not forget, the late great Anthony Bourdain on the pass.

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