Encyclopedia of Classic & Vintage Stitches: 245 Illustrated Embroidery Stitches for Cross Stitch, Crewel, Beadwork, Needlelace, Stumpwork, and More

THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF

STITCHES

THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF

STITCHES

Edited by Karen Hemingway

UK Terms List

For the convenience of the UK reader, below is a list of US terms used in this book and their UK equivalents.

A Note About Colors

For the projects in this book, general colors are given along with brand-specific color numbers. These numbers are suggested colors only; the generic color names preceding them are a guide for what to look for if you are using a different brand or cant find the specific suggested color, not the actual name associated with the color number given. Use what works for you!

Tempting as it may be to start stitching straightaway, it is well worth preparing and mounting the background fabric properly before you get down to work: time invested at the outset will always result in a professional finish. Almost all embroidery will benefit from being worked within a frame: the even tension prevents puckered fabric and distorted stitches, and you will quickly get used to sewing in this way. Protect your work in progress by pinning a clean handkerchief over the embroidery, then store the frame in a cotton pillowcase or wrap a larger piece with sheeting.

Lucinda Ganderton

When cutting out the background, add on a margin of at least 3 in (8 cm) all around the design area to allow for mounting. If necessary, wash and press linen or cotton, to prevent any later color run or shrinkage. Some cloth, and most canvas, will fray along the cut edges, so hem or zigzag loosely woven fabrics and bind canvas with masking tape.

Always mark the center of the fabric. Lightly press it in half length-and widthwise, then work a line of contrasting running stitch along each crease, following the weave carefully. This will assist accurate placement of the design and help establish a good tension when the fabric is mounted.

Silks, satin and lawns will need to be reinforced with a second layer of fabric to support the weight of the stitches. Cut a piece of muslin 3 in (8 cm) larger all around and baste the finer fabric centrally onto the backing, diagonally from corner to corner, across the center lines and around the edge. Where the embroidery is a small part of a larger piece for, say, a garment, trim away the surplus muslin, so that it only backs the embroidery.

Lightweight wooden hoops are portable and ideal for small-scale work. To mount the cloth, loosen the screw and separate the two rings. The inner ring may be wrapped with bias or seam binding to protect the fabric and prevent it from slipping. Place the fabric over the inner ring and slip the outer ring in place. Stretch gently until it is taut like a drum, check that the guidelines are straight, then tighten the screw.

Needlepoint and larger embroidery projects are worked on a scroll or slate frame. Hand-sew the top and bottom of the fabric to the webbing on the two roller bars. Adjust the bars to tighten the fabric, then secure the nuts. Lace the edges to the side bars with thick thread to keep the horizontal tension. For a long piece of work, the fabric will need to be rolled upwards as each section is completed and the sides re-laced.