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Wendy D. Johnson - Toe-Up Socks for Every Body: Adventurous Lace, Cables, and Colorwork from Wendy Knits

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    Toe-Up Socks for Every Body: Adventurous Lace, Cables, and Colorwork from Wendy Knits
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Acknowledgments

First and foremost Id like to thank Potter Craft, my publisher. Potter Craft has the reputation for creating stunning, high-quality books, and I am delighted to see my work presented so beautifully.

Thanks also to my editor Rebecca Behan, who has time and time again impressed me with her clarity of thought, attention to detail, and commitment to quality. Rebecca made working through the often tedious but necessary revisions and rewrites almost a pleasure!

I had a mighty band of knitters test these patterns and knit the samples for photography. The WendyKnits knitting brigade consisted of Aimee M. Abernathy, Timmie Ballard, Frances Clement, Erika Connell, Alice Coppa, Brigitte Depocas, Marti Dolezal, Janice Fischer, Sarah Oldenburg Garcia, Dominique Hallett, Sharon Hart, Lindsey-Brooke Hessa, Hariamrit Khalsa, Opal Kiehm, Johanne Lndin, Laura Linneman, Roseann Mauroni, Isobel Thomas, and Ada van Iwaarden.

Thank you one and all!

I owe a special thank-you to Aimee M. Abernathy not only for her willingness and ability to take on extra knitting at the last minute and knock out perfect socks at blazing speed, but for her commitment to quality, her sense of humor, and her concern for my sanity. Thank you, Aimee. Im proud to call you my friend.

Thank you to Judy Becker for granting me permission to document her fabulous Judys Magic Cast-On technique in this book.

Thank you to Ian Ories for taking the photographs used to create the illustrations of the techniques demonstrated in this book. This is a tedious chore at best, and Ian has perfected the process, making the photo sessions as painless as possible.

Thank you to Sheri Berger at The Loopy Ewe, who understands exactly how serious it is when I telephone her and whimper sock yarn emergency! Not only does she drop everything to express ship sock yarn to me, but she includes chocolate in the package.

And, as in the past, I have depended on my dear friend and knitter extraordinaire Lindsey-Brooke Hessa to take on the duties of technical editor. And as she always has, she rose to the challenge and did a stellar job of proofing, critiquing, and checking my patterns. I always know my work is in good hands when I turn it over to L-B. A technical editor who is so familiar with your work that she knows exactly where to look for your screw-ups and is a good enough friend to be completely honest with you without fear of offending is a rare and wonderful thing. Thank you again, L-B! I couldnt have done it without you.

appendix techniques for toe-up socks This section includes techniques you - photo 1

appendix
techniques for toe-up socks

This section includes techniques you need to know to knit socks from the toe up. If you are a veteran toe-up knitter, you might find this section useful as a refresher course. If you are new to the toe-up way of sock knitting, everything you need to know to get started is right here.

The different needle techniques you can use to knit socks in the round are demonstrated here. If you are not new to knitting socks, you probably already have a preferred technique, but if you were taught one way and are interested in trying something different, have a look. Ive also included instructions for four great cast-ons, which can be used interchangeably for any of my patterns. You can try a couple of different cast-ons to find the one that suits you best. The three different heels that I use in my patterns are also shown. In many cases, it is possible to switch out one heel technique for another in the sock patterns if you have a strong preference for one over another. Really, the only restrictions on switching out heels in these patterns are in the colorwork socks (discussed in greater detail ), so feel free to experiment. Ive also included two easy bind-offs that are nicely stretchy and perfect for finishing off the cuffs of your socks.

NEEDLE TECHNIQUES

There are three ways to knit socks in the round: on double-pointed needles, on two circular needles, or on one circular needle employing what is called the Magic Loop technique.

KNITTING A SOCK ON DOUBLE-POINTED NEEDLES When I knit socks on double-pointed needles, I prefer needles no shorter than 5" (12.75 cm) and no longer than 7" (17.75 cm). Any shorter and I wont have room for all the stitches on the needles, unless I am making childrens socks. Any longer, and I spend too much valuable knitting time pushing my stitches to the business end of the needle. I also find that long double-points stab me in the palm of the hand when Im knitting small circumference projects.

To knit socks on a set of five double-pointed needles, you divide your stitches over four of the needles and use the fifth needle to knit the stitches off one needle to another.

After creating your toe, divide your stitches over four of the five needles. (a)

Pick up your work so that the start of your round is on the first needle in - photo 2

Pick up your work so that the start of your round is on the first needle in your left hand and the end of the round is on the last needle in your right hand.

Using the fifth double-pointed needle (the one that you did not put any stitches on), work the first stitch on the left needle as desired. Pull the yarn tight to avoid a hole. (b) Continue to work the stitches on the left needle. When all of the stitches have been worked off the left needle, that one will become the free needle.

Now use the newly free needle to work the stitches on the next needle Continue - photo 3

Now use the newly free needle to work the stitches on the next needle. Continue working until you come to the end of the round.

KNITTING A SOCK ON TWO CIRCULAR NEEDLES

To knit a sock on two circulars, I like to use needles that are 16" (40 cm) to 24" (60 cm) in length. Any longer and I find that the dangling end of the needle not in use gets in my way. Some people like to use needles of two different lengths (for example, one 16" [40cm] needle and one 24" [60cm] needle) so they can easily tell them apart and more quickly grab the correct needle to knit.

Begin by dividing your toe stitches over the two needles: instep stitches on one needle, and sole/heel stitches on the other. (c)

With your work facing you slide the stitches to the right-hand point of the - photo 4

With your work facing you, slide the stitches to the right-hand point of the needle. Start knitting by working these with the needle point that is on the other end of that same circular needle. (d)

Knit until you have worked all of the stitches on the first circular needle - photo 5

Knit until you have worked all of the stitches on the first circular needle. Slide the worked stitches down onto the needles cable and turn the work so the other needle is in front.

Now work the stitches on the second needle. Slide the stitches to the right-hand point of the needle so that the first stitch is at the working end of the needle. Knit the first stitch firmly to tighten up any gap between the two needles.

KNITTING A SOCK ON ONE LONG CIRCULAR NEEDLE (THE MAGIC LOOP TECHNIQUE)
To use the Magic Loop technique, you want a relatively long circular needleat least 32" (80 cm) long. I find this technique easiest when working with a needle that is at least 40" (100 cm) long. The longer needle allows for plenty of room to manipulate the cable as needed.

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