Wendy D. Johnson - Belle Epoque Thigh Highs and Kneesocks: E-Pattern from Toe-Up Socks for Every Body

These thigh-highs are reminiscent of stockings worn by dancers performing in the cabarets in the Paris of the Belle poque. They are topped with an eyelet lace band, through which you can thread a pretty ribbon or an elastic cord, helping to keep the stockings firmly in place. For those who dont have the knitting time or the lifestyle for a pair of racy thigh-highs, Ive included an option to knit them as kneesocks with a ribbed cuff. You could also adapt the lace cuff of the thigh-highs to the kneesocks, if desired.

Because of the nature of thigh-highs (and gravity), the yarn you choose is extremely important. Here, a blend of merino wool, nylon, and elastic is stretchy enough to accommodate a wide range of foot and leg sizes and elastic enough to hug the leg closely.

SIZE

Thigh-Highs

S (M), 6 (7)" (17 [19.5]cm) circumference at foot, 9" (23cm) long foot, 16 (19)" (40.5 [48.5]cm) circumference at thigh, 27 (30)" (68.5 [76]cm) tall (unstretched)

Kneesocks

S (M), 6 (7)" (17 [19.5]cm) circumference at foot, 9" (23cm) long foot, 10 (11)" (26.5 [29]cm) circumference just below the knee, 13 (14)" (33 [35.5]cm) tall (unstretched)

YARN

Thigh-Highs (Kneesocks)

Knit One, Crochet Too Soxx Appeal super fine (96% superwash merino wool, 3% nylon, 1% elastic; 1 oz/50g, 208 yd/190m): 8 (4) skeins in Berry

NEEDLES 2 US size 0 (2mm) circular needles (or 1 long circular needle), or size needed to attain gauge

GAUGE 8 stitches and 14 rows = 1" (2.5cm) in stockinette stitch (unstretched)

NOTE The knitted fabric for this design will stretch a lot due to the elasticity of the yarn used as well as the stretchiness of the lace design. Make sure you choose a size that is smaller than your actual leg measurements to allow the sock to stretch and hug the leg.

Using a Turkish Cast-On, a Figure-Eight Cast-On, or Judys Magic Cast-On, cast on a total of 26 (30) stitches13 (15) stitches on each needle. Knit across the stitches on each needle once. On the next round, increase 4 stitches as follows:

Needle 1: K1, M1, knit until the last stitch, M1, k1.

Needle 2: K1, M1, knit until the last stitch, M1, k1.

Then knit a round without increasing.

Repeat these 2 rounds until you have a total of 58 (66) stitches29 (33) stitches on each needle.

On Needle 1, work the first row of the 4-stitch Lace chart 7 (8) times, k1. Knit across Needle 2. Continue in this manner, working as many repeats of the 4-row pattern as necessary until approximately 3" (7.5cm) shy of the total length of the foot.

Round 1: Work across Needle 1 in the lace pattern. Needle 2 (sole stitches): K1, M1, knit across to the last stitch, M1, k1.

Round 2: Work across Needle 1 in the lace pattern. Needle 2 (sole stitches): Knit all stitches. Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have 49 (55) stitches on Needle 2. Work across Needle 1 in pattern.

You will now work back and forth on the stitches on Needle 2 and will not knit the stitches on Needle 1 while turning the heel. Turn the heel as follows:

Row 1: (RS) K33 (37), kf&b, k1, w&t.

Row 2: P20 (22), pf&b, p1, w&t.

Row 3: K18 (20), kf&b, k1, w&t.

Row 4: P16 (18), pf&b, p1, w&t.

Row 5: K14 (16), kf&b, k1, w&t.

Row 6: P12 (14), pf&b, p1, w&t.

Row 7: K10 (12), kf&b, k1, w&t.

Row 8: P8 (10), pf&b, p1, w&t.

Needle 2 now holds 57 (63) stitches, having just completed a wrong-side row. On the right side, knit to the end of Needle 2, knitting each wrap together with the stitch it wraps. Work across the instep stitches on Needle 1 in the chart pattern.

Work back and forth on the heel stitches on Needle 2:

Row 1 (RS): K42 (47) (knitting each wrap together with the stitch it wraps), ssk, turn.

Row 2: Sl1, p27 (31), p2tog, turn.

Row 3: [Sl1, k1] 14 (16) times, ssk, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until all side stitches have been worked; end having worked Row 2. Turn your work and knit across, decreasing 2 stitches evenly on this row. Needle 2 now holds 27 (31) stitches.

Begin working in the round again. Work the stitches on Needle 1 in the chart pattern as established earlier. Starting with the same row you worked on Needle 1, work the Lace chart over Needle 2, starting with the second stitch on the chart work stitches 24, and then work the 4-stitch lace pattern 6 (7) more times27 (31) stitches total. Work on the pattern as set until you have completed a row 4 of the chart. Work the leg (instructions for thigh-highs are first; those for kneesocks are in brackets):

On Needle 2, place a marker after stitch 11 and after stitch 16 so that the 5 center stitches on Needle 2 have a marker on each side of them.

Work 15 rounds in pattern.

On the next round, increase 1 stitch on each side inside the markers by creating yarn overs, following the Increase chart. Continue to increase 2 stitches in this manner every eighth round until you finish Round 26 of the Increase chart.

Move the markers so that they are on either side of the center 5 stitches again, and repeat the chart. Note that you will continue to work the 4 stitches of the Lace chart and 1 knit stitch (total of 5 stitches) in the center as set, as you knit the entire leg.

Continue to work the leg, making the increases every 8 rounds as set, until you have a total of 132 [88] stitches around.

Work without increasing until the sock measures 25" (63.5cm) [11" (28cm)] or until it measures 2" (5cm) less than the desired finished length (measured from the bottom of the heel).

On Needle 2, place a marker before and after stitch 16 so that the center stitch on Needle 2 has a marker on each side of it.

Work 3 rounds in pattern.

On the next round, increase 1 stitch on each side inside the markers by creating yarn overs, following the Increase chart. Continue to increase 2 stitches in this manner every eighth round until you finish Round 26 of the Increase chart.

Move the markers so that they are on either side of the center stitch again, and repeat the chart.

Continue to work the leg, making the increases every 8 rounds as set, and incorporating extra repeats of the Lace chart pattern into the increases when you are able to do so, until you have a total of 156 [96] stitches around.

Work without increasing until the sock measures 28" (71cm) [12" (30.5cm)] or until it measures 2" (5cm) less than the desired finished length (measured from the bottom of the heel).

Work the Top chart. Work the 12-stitch lace pattern 11 (13) times around the stocking. Work Rounds 123; then work Rounds 17 again. Bind off with a picot edge as follows:

Cast on 2 stitches using the cable method. Bind off 4 stitches, and slip the remaining stitch on the right needle back to the left needle as if to purl. Repeat until all stitches are cast off.

Cut a length of ribbon or elastic 30" (76cm) long, thread through the top eyelets, and tie in a bow.

Note: To work a cable cast-on, insert the tip of the right-hand needle between the first 2 stitches on the left-hand needle. From this position, wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle as if to knit, and bring it through, between the 2 existing stitches. Transfer the newly created stitch onto the left-hand needle.