Lonely Planet - Lonely Planet Montréal & Québec City
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Montral & Qubec City
Witness a French-infused city thats in love with festivals, the arts, good food, living well and enjoying life to the hilt.
Blessed with one of the most exciting food scenes in North America, Montral brims with temples dedicated to Kamouraska lamb, Arctic char and, of course, poutine (fries smothered in cheese curds and gravy). Youll find irresistible patisseries, English pubs, 80-plus-year-old Jewish delis and magnificent food markets. There are hipster bars with tiny bowling alleys, vegetarian options galore and innumerable cafes in which to while away a lazy afternoon. And there are late-night eateries where you can linger over wondrous combinations of food and drink that youll find nowhere else on earth.
Toronto may be Canadas economic capital, but Montral remains the countrys cultural juggernaut. The city, standard bearer of an entire linguistic-cultural identity francophone Canada simply lives for public celebration of the arts. There are some 250 theater and dance companies, more than 90 festivals and a fascinating medley of neighborhoods where artists, writers and musicians have helped cement the citys reputation as a great arts center. The Festival International de Jazz de Montral is the headline event, followed by parties dedicated to world cinema, comedy and gay pride.
Montral is a slice of old Europe in a pie of contemporary design. A days wander might take in the photogenic 18th-century facades of Old Montral before a cycling tour of the lovely Canal de Lachine, or a wander through the glittering shops and restaurants of downtown before ending at the inviting terraced cafes of Plateau Mont-Royal. The architectural sweep of the city takes in a wealth of heritage churches such as the breathtaking Basilique Notre-Dame, as well as 20th-century icons like the Stade Olympique and Habitat 67. Montrals hotels and museums additionally push the edges of contemporary interior design.
The Qubcois love their summers and autumnal colors, but it is the winter that defines much of their lives, which slow down and become more insular in the grip of those long, dark months. With that said, the passion for life that animates Canadian francophones does not truly dim in the cold, but is rather celebrated around cozy fireplaces, in friendly pubs, at steaming sugar shacks, and, of course, on the slopes of local mountains via skis, snowboards and toboggans.
By Phillip Tang, Writer
The Frenchness of Montral is no whisper. Im always taken by the grungy francophone beat mixed into its music and film festivals. I love their thoughtful European appreciation of everything from theater and comedy, to pastries and bagels. I could linger hours in cafes and terraces in the wings of golden buildings, or stroll the entire city seeking street murals. Locals have enlightened me to Montrals winter pleasures its coziness, outdoor thrills and apple ice cider. And this city thats mastered winter also knows how to go nuts in summer.
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The old city is where Montral began and where its heart still lies. Stroll the old-world cobblestoned streets and grand plazas, and learn about local history in the museums. The neighborhood also has fine churches, 19th-century (and earlier) buildings juxtaposed with contemporary constructions, excellent shops and boutiques, numerous art galleries and cafes for your inner bohemian, and some of Montrals finest dining and lodging options. Old Montral is like traveling in time without leaving the best of modernity behind.
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