Lonely Planet - Montreal & Quebec City Guide

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Why I Love Montral

By Timothy N Hornyak, Author

I was born and raised in Montral, but after living in Tokyo Im always astonished at the breadth of culture in my hometown. Despite its modest size, Montral packs a mighty foodie punch with its myriad restaurants and devotion to good food. I could spend hours wandering through the March Jean-Talon and then devouring its offerings at restaurants like Kitchen Galerie, or simply spending a warm summer evening drinking on a rooftop patio in Old Montral. But if I were exiled to a desert island, I would insist on bringing as many bagels from St-Viateur Bagel as possible.

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The old city is where Montral began and where its heart lies still. Stroll the old-world cobblestone streets and grand plazas, and learn about local history in the museums. The neighborhood also has fine churches, 19th-century (and earlier) buildings juxtaposed with contemporary constructions, excellent shops and boutiques, numerous art galleries and cafes for your inner bohemian, and some of Montrals finest dining and accommodations options. Old Montral is like traveling in time without leaving the best of modernity behind.

Old Montral

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This recently expanded gem in the heart of Montral is one of the best museums in the country. And entry to its permanent collection spanning everything from the Old Masters to contemporary artists is free. The new Bourgie Pavilion is in a gorgeous 19th-century church adjacent to the original neoclassical building, while the modern Desmarais Pavilion across the street reflects its engagement with contemporary art. Temporary exhibitions range from Chinese terracotta warriors to pop artist Tom Wesselmann.

Downtown

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Montrealers are justly proud of their passion for cultivating and appreciating good music. What else would you expect from a city that has turned out everything from Leonard Cohen to Arcade Fire? Thats part of the reason why thousands gather downtown every summer for the sizzling sounds of the Festival International de Jazz de Montral, the citys main party. Free outdoor shows, star performers and a wide variety of genres make it one of the best reasons to visit.

Music & the Arts

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The pride of Montral and one of the most beautiful churches on the continent, the Basilique Notre-Dame is a 19th- century Gothic Revival masterpiece with spectacular craftsmanship. Originally it was a humble building dating from 1683; it was rebuilt in 1829. Everything from the great bell (12 tons) in the western tower to the 1891 organ with its 7000 pipes and the stained-glass windows depicting the citys history speaks of the strong faith of the congregations of yesteryear.