Lonely Planet - Seoul City Guide

Dive into this dynamic mash-up of night markets and K-Pop, temples and majestic palaces, skyscrapers and pulsing neon.

Seoul is evolving from a hardened concrete-and-steel economic powerhouse into a softer-edged 21st-century urban ideal of parks, culture and design. Following on from the disinterring and landscaping of the central Cheong-gye stream and upgrading of the Han River parks comes the sprucing up of hiking trails on Namsan, a mountain escape in the citys midst. The Unesco City of Design also offers several contemporary architectural marvels, including the Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park and the giant glass wave of the new City Hall.

Gaze down on this sprawling metropolis of 10.5 million people from atop any of Seouls four guardian mountains and youll sense the powerful pungsu-jiri (feng shui) that has long nurtured and protected the city. Having endured the catastrophe of the Korean War barely 60 years ago, the Miracle on the Han has its eye clearly on the future, while history clings tenaciously to many of its corners. Youll encounter fascinating fragments of the past in World Heritagelisted sites such as Jongmyo shrine, as well as in the alleys winding between the graceful hanok (traditional wooden homes) that cluster in Bukchon.

Whatever you want, at any time of day or night, Seoul can provide. An early morning temple visit can lead to a palace tour followed by teahouse sipping in Bukchon and gallery hopping in Insa-dong. Soju (a vodka-like drink) and snacks in a street tent bar will fuel you for shopping at the buzzing Dongdaemun or Namdaemun night markets, partying in Hongdae or Itaewon, or playing online games at a PC bang or watching the latest Korean blockbuster at a DVD bang . Follow this with steaming, soaking and snoozing in a jjimjil-bang (sauna and spa). By the time you look at your watch, it will be dawn again.

Public transport is brilliant, so theres no excuse for not stretching your travel horizons beyond the Fortress Walls. Most visitors are inexorably drawn to the fearsome modern-day barrier: the Demilitarised Zone, or DMZ, splitting South from North Korea. Day trips here are a must, and nearby is the charming arts and culture village of Heyri. To the west, Incheon is a fascinating port where the modern world came flooding into Korea at the end of the 19th century, while south is Suwon, home also to impressive World Heritagelisted fortifications.

CIENKWEE / DREAMSTIME.COM

Why I Love Seoul

By Simon Richmond, Author

Seoul is heaven for passionate foodies. Whether tucking into the snacks of commoners or the cuisine of kings, you just cant lose. A hanjeongsik ( multicourse banquet) is a feast as much for the eyes as the tummy, as are the creations of chefs crafting neo-Korean dishes. Equally satisfying is scoffing down piping-hot, crispy hotteok (pancakes with sweet or savoury fillings) on a street corner, or delicious, fresh and fiery crab soup in Noryangjin Fish Market. And dont get me started on the wonderful universe of teas served in charming teahouses: this is where the soul of Seoul lies.

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Seouls Top 10

Cheong-gye-cheon ()

A raised highway was demolished and the ground dug up to daylight this long-buried stream. It transformed Seouls centre, creating a riverside park and walking course thats a calm respite from the surrounding commercial hubbub. Public art is dotted along the banks and many events are held here, including a spectacular lantern festival in November, when thousands of glowing paper-and-paint sculptures are floated in the water. Theres a museum where you can learn about the history of the Cheong-gye-cheon.

Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu

SIMON RICHMOND / GETTY IMAGES

Bukchon Hanok Village ()

In a city at the cutting edge of 21st- century technology, where apartment living is the norm, this neighbourhood stands as a testament to an age of craftsmanship when Seoulites lived in one-storey wooden hanok , complete with graceful tiled roofs and internal courtyard gardens. Get lost wandering the labyrinthine streets, squished between two major palaces and rising up the foothills of Bukaksan. Take in the views and pause to pop into a cafe, art gallery, craft shop or small private museum along the way.

Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu

RICHARD NEBESKY / GETTY IMAGES

Changdeokgung ()

The Palace of Illustrious Virtue was built in the early 15th century as a secondary palace to Gyeongbokgung. These days this Unesco World Heritagelisted property exceeds it in beauty and grace partly because so many of its buildings were actually lived in by royal-family members well into the 20th century. The most charming section is the Huwon, a secret garden that is a royal horticultural idyll. Book well ahead to snag one of the limited tickets to view this special palace on the moonlight tours held during full-moon nights in the warm months.

Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu