Madrid Lonely Planet - Madrid City Guide

No city on earth is more alive than Madrid, a beguiling place whose sheer energy carries a simple message: this city really knows how to live.

Rising above the humble claims of its local cuisine, Madrid has evolved into one of the richest culinary capitals of Europe. This is a city that has wholeheartedly embraced all the creativity and innovation of Spains gastronomic revolution. But this acceptance of the new is wedded to a passion for the enduring traditions of Spanish cooking (its no coincidence that the worlds oldest restaurant is found here), for the conviviality of the eating experience and for showcasing the infinite variety of food from every Spanish region. From tapas in sleek temples to all thats new to sit-down meals beneath centuries-old vaulted ceilings, eating in Madrid is a genuine pleasure.

Madrid nights are the stuff of legend. The city may have more bars than any other city on earth, a collection of storied cocktail bars and nightclubs that combine a hint of glamour with non-stop marcha (action). But that only goes someway to explaining the appeal of after-dark Madrid. Step out into the night-time streets of many Madrid neighbourhoods and youll find yourself swept along on a tide of people, accompanied by a happy crowd intent on dancing until dawn.

Madrid may not have the architectural cachet of Paris, the monumental history of Rome, or Barcelonas reputation for Modernista masterpieces. And no, there is no equivalent of the Eiffel Tower, Colosseum or La Sagrada Famlia that you can point to and say this is Madrid. Madrid has nothing to be envious of when it comes to architecture. Instead, the broad sweep of architectural history provides a glorious backdrop to city life, from medieval mansions and royal palaces to the unimagined angles of Spanish contemporary architecture, from the sober brickwork and slate spires of Madrid baroque to the extravagant confections of the belle poque. Put simply, this is one beautiful city.

DIEGO LEZAMA / GETTY IMAGES

Spains premier collection of Spanish and European art belongs among the elite of world art museums. Goya and Velzquez are the stars of the show in this beautiful museum that occupies pride of place along the citys grand boulevard, the Paseo del Prado. But the Prados catalogue has such astonishing depth and breadth, from Rubens and Rembrandt to Botticelli and Bosch, that youll require more than one visit to take it all in.

El Retiro & the Art Museums

HEMIS / ALAMY

Madrid is distinguished by some extraordinarily beautiful plazas, but Plaza Mayor is easily the king. The plazas constituent elements are easy to list: uneven cobblestones, perfectly proportioned porticoes, slate spires and facades in deep ochre offset by marvellous frescoes of mythic figures and wrought-iron balconies. But this stately square is the heartbeat of a city, the scene of so many grand events in Madrids historical story and where the modern city most agreeably throngs with life.

Plaza Mayor & Royal Madrid

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Statue of Philip III

One of the most important gastronomic streets in Spain, La Latinas Calle de la Cava Baja is lined with tapas bars. Some have elevated these tiny morsels into art forms, while others serve up specialties in traditional clay pots. Such is Madrids love affair with tapas and the whole culture of enjoying them that even this long and graceful thoroughfare cannot contain the neighbourhoods tapas offerings. Nearby youll find Madrids best tortilla de patatas (potato and onion omelette), an egg-and- jamn (ham) dish beloved by the king

La Latina & Lavapis

SANDRA RACCANELLO/SIME/4CORNERS

The alter ego to Madrids tableau of sound and movement, the Parque del Buen Retiro is one of our favourite corners of the city. Beautiful by any standards with eye-catching architectural monuments and abundant statues among the trees, El Retiro is where madrileos (people from Madrid) come to stroll in great numbers on weekends. As such its one of the most accessible slices of local culture, at once filled with life and an escape from Madrids frenetic pace.

El Retiro & the Art Museums

JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IMAGES

In a city where world-class art galleries are everywhere, it takes something special for one painting to tower above the rest. But such is the strange and disturbing splendour of Picassos Guernica that its claim to being Madrids most extraordinary artwork is unrivalled. After decades of wandering the globe, it looks very much at home in the Centro de Arte Reina Sofa, alongside works by Salvador Dal and Joan Mir.