Lonely Planet - Japan Travel Guide

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Japan is a world apart a cultural Galpagos where a unique civilisation blossomed, and thrives today in delicious contrasts of traditional and modern. The Japanese spirit is strong, warm and incredibly welcoming.

Since 11 March 2011, one cannot talk about or consider visiting Japan without the devastating earthquake and tsunami that struck northeast Japan coming up. Yet, rather than focus on the immediate horrors and lingering fears of the tragedy, one should focus on the beauty and accessibility of Japan today. One should note how the Japanese people, resilient and steadfast, behaved after the waters receded: they gathered calmly in evacuation shelters, set off bravely on rescue missions, began the task of rebuilding.

Every image from those first weeks reflects some of the cultures highest virtues: the ability to gambaru (do their best) and to gaman (bear suffering without complaint). They also capture the famous Japanese thoroughness and civility. This spirit will allow the Japanese people to rebuild northern Japan faster than anyone expects. And it is this very same spirit that makes travelling in Japan such a joy.

Do not avoid Japan because of fear. The March 2011 disaster was of once-in-a- lifetime proportions, and even at the height of the crisis most of Japan was perfectly safe for travel. At the time of writing, only a small area of Fukushima Prefecture was off limits.

Japan is wide open for travel. If you have been considering your first visit to Japan or returning to re-experience the unique magic of the country, the perfect time to go and to celebrate Japan and its people is now.

Japan hits the travel sweet spot. Its unique enough to give you regular doses of Wow! without any downside. Indeed, travelling in Japan is remarkably comfortable, even with the language barrier thrown in but its never familiar. Staying in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) is marvellously different from staying in a chain hotel. Soaking naked in an onsen (hot spring) with a bunch of strangers might be a little odd at first, but it is beyond relaxing. Sitting in a robe on tatami mats eating raw fish and mountain vegetables may not be how you dine back home, but it is unforgettably delicious.

Perhaps more than any country on earth, Japan makes you think. It is a country that took a good, hard look at the West and said Well take your technology, but were keeping our culture. It was never extensively missionised or colonised. It practises an ancient animist/pantheist religion while pushing the boundaries of modern technology. It is a country where tens of millions of people can cram into crowded cities without ever losing their temper. And while you explore Japan, you will regularly find yourself awed by how the Japanese do things and perhaps, just as often, wondering Why dont we do it that way back home?

Japans oldest wooden castle, the graceful Matsumoto-j
BOB CHARLTON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Kyoto Temples & Gardens

With more than 1000 temples to choose from, youre spoiled for choice in Kyoto ( ). Spend your time finding one that suits your taste. If you like things gaudy and grand, youll love the retina-burning splendour of Kinkaku-ji. If you prefer wabi-sabi to rococo, youll find the tranquillity of Hnen-in or Shren-in more to your liking. And dont forget that temples are where youll find the best gardens: some of them are at Ginkaku-ji, Ryan-ji and Tfuku-ji.

Kinkaku-ji
JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Japanese Cuisine

Japan is a food lovers paradise and the cuisine ( ) is incredibly varied, running the gamut from simple soba noodles to multi- course kaiseki banquets. In a city such as Tokyo or Kyoto, you could eat a different Japanese speciality cuisine every night for a month without repeating yourself. Theres no doubt that a food tour of Japan will be memorable, but theres just one problem: once you try the real thing in Japan, the restaurants back home will pale in comparison. The only solution is another trip to Japan!

GLENN BEANLAND / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Onsen

Theres nothing like lowering yourself into the tub at a classic Japanese onsen ( ). You can feel your muscles relax and the ahhh that you emit is just an easy way of saying Damn, Im glad I came to Japan! If youre lucky, the tub is outside and theres a nice stream running nearby. The Japanese have turned the simple act of bathing into a folk religion, and the country is dotted with temples and shrines to this most relaxing of faiths.

Takaragawa Onsen
MICHAEL S. YAMASHITA / CORBIS

Staying in a Ryokan

Eat in your bedroom. Spend the day lounging about in a robe. Soak in a bath while looking at a garden. Dont lift a finger except to bring food to your mouth. Sounds relaxing? Then we highly recommend a night in a good ryokan ( ). The Japanese had the whole spa thing figured out long before they ever heard the word spa. From first-class place to the most humble ryokan, they will all give you a taste of how the Japanese used to live.

Tawaraya ryokan
DAVID SAMUEL ROBBINS / CORBIS

Hiking in the Japan Alps

Close your eyes and picture Japan. If all you see are geisha, Zen gardens, bullet trains and hyper- modern cities, you might be in for a real surprise when you get into the Japan Alps ( ). Hike right into the heart of the high peaks here and youll be in awe of so much mountain splendour. You can go hut-to-hut among the peaks for a week with nothing on your back but a solid day pack.

DAVID CHEREPUSCHAK / ALAMY

Castles

Japans castles have about as much in common with their European counterparts as kimonos have in common with Western dinner dresses. Their graceful contours belie the grim military realities behind their construction. Towering above the plains, they seem designed more to please the eye than to protect their lords. If you have an interest in the world of samurai, shguns and military history, youll love Japans castles. Now that the castle at Himeji is under wraps, try the one at Matsuyama ( ).