Lonely Planet - Bali & Lombok Travel Guide

E-reader devices vary in their ability to show our maps. To get the most out of the maps in this guide, use the zoom function on your device. Or, visit http://media.lonelyplanet.com/ebookmaps and grab a PDF download or print out all the maps in this guide.

The mere mention of Bali evokes thoughts of a paradise. Its more than a place; its a mood, an aspiration, a tropical state of mind.

Sunset at Champlung (), Seminyak Beach
IAN TROWER/GETTY IMAGES

Bali is like no other destination in the world. Its rich culture plays out at all levels of life, from the exquisite flower-petal offerings placed everywhere to the processions of joyfully garbed locals, shutting down major roads as they march to one of the myriad temple ceremonies, to the other-worldly traditional music and dance performed island-wide.

Yes, Bali has beaches, surfing, diving, and resorts great and small, but its the essence of Bali and the Balinese that makes it so much more than just a fun-in-the-sun retreat. It is possible to take the clich of the smiling Balinese too far, but in reality, the inhabitants of this small island are indeed a generous, genuinely warm people. Theres also a fun, sly sense of humour behind the smiles. Upon seeing a bald tourist, many locals exclaim bung ujan, which means todays rain is cancelled its their way of saying that the hairless head is like a clear sky.

On Bali you can lose yourself in the chaos of Kuta or the sybaritic pleasures of Seminyak and Kerobokan, surf wild beaches in the south or just hang out on Nusa Lembongan. You can go family friendly in Sanur or savour a lavish getaway on the Bukit Peninsula. Ubud is the heart of Bali, a place where the spirit and culture of the island are most accessible. It shares the islands most beautiful rice fields and ancient monuments with east and west Bali. The middle of Bali is dominated by the dramatic volcanoes of the central mountains and hillside temples such as Pura Luhur Batukau (one of the islands 20,000). North and west Bali are thinly populated but have diving and surfing that make any journey worthwhile.

Almost as big as Bali, Lombok is the undiscovered place next door. From its volcanic centre to untrodden idyllic beaches like Mawun, it rewards travellers who want to explore. Many are drawn to mighty Gunung Rinjani, Indonesias second-highest volcano. Rivers and waterfalls gush down its fissured slopes, while its summit complete with hot springs and a dazzling crater lake is the ultimate trekker prize. The fabled Gili Islands three exquisite droplets of white sand sprinkled with coconut palms and surrounded by coral reefs teeming with marine life and, on Gili Trawangan, legendary nightlife.

Walking in rice terraces, Ubud ()
MARTIN PUDDY/GETTY IMAGES

There you are sipping a coffee at a cafe in, say, Seminyak or Ubud, when theres a crash of the gamelan (traditional Balinese orchestra) and traffic screeches to a halt as a crowd of elegantly dressed people comes flying by, bearing pyramids of fruit, tasselled parasols and a furred, masked Barong (mythical lion-dog creature) or two. Its a temple procession disappearing as suddenly as it appeared, with no more than the fleeting sparkle of gold and white silk and hibiscus petals in its wake. Dozens occur daily across Bali.

Balinese ceremony, Kuta, Bali
TOM COCKREM/GETTY IMAGES

Aaah, a Spa

Whether its a total fix for the mind, body and spirit, or simply the desire for a bit of serenity, visitors to Bali spend many happy hours (sometimes days) being massaged, scrubbed, perfumed, pampered, bathed and blissed out. Sometimes all this attention to your well-being happens on the beach or in a garden; other times its in stylish, even lavish, surroundings. As the Balinese massage techniques of stretching, long strokes, skin rolling and palm-and-thumb pressure result in an all-over feeling of calm, its the perfect holiday prescription.

Spa with banana-leaf wrapping, Ubud ()
MATTHEW WAKEM/GETTY IMAGES

Sybaritic Stays

On an island that honours art and serenity, is it any wonder youll find some of the worlds finest hotels and resorts? From blissful retreats on south Balis beautiful beach in Kerobokan or Seminyak to perches on cliffs above the dazzling white sands that dot the Bukit Peninsula, these stylish hotels are as lovely outside as they are luxurious inside. Further resorts by vaunted architects can be found in Ubuds river valleys and in remote idyllic coastal locations.

Hotel resort, Nusa Lembongan
ANDREW BROWNBILL/GETTY IMAGES

Balis Food

Oh goody! Its virtually impossible not to say this when you step into a classic warung (food stall) for lunch to find dozens of freshly made dishes on the counter awaiting you. It shouldnt surprise that this fertile island provides a profusion of ingredients that combine to create fresh and aromatic dishes. Local specialities such as babi guling (roast suckling pig thats been marinated for hours in spices) will have you lining up again and again. Try lunch at one of the excellent Balinese cafes in Denpasar ().

Bowls of traditional Indonesian food in Ubud
NIELS VAN GIJN/GETTY IMAGES

Offerings

A wisp of smoke rises from an incense stick perched in an exquisite array of orange flower petals on a banana leaf no bigger than a deck of cards. Youll quickly realise these Balinese offerings are everywhere outside your hotel room door, a tiny shrine on the beach, even at the end of the bar. They come in all shapes and sizes and are made throughout the day and night. Some are grand assemblages of fruit and food but most are tiny, appearing as if by magic.