Stewart Iain - Bali & Lombok Travel Guide

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The mere mention of Bali evokes thoughts of a paradise. Its more than a place: its a mood, an aspiration, a tropical state of mind.

Bali is like no other destination in the world. Its rich culture plays out at all levels of life, from the exquisite flower-petal offerings placed everywhere to the processions of joyfully garbed locals, shutting down major roads as they march to one of the myriad temple ceremonies, to the otherworldly traditional music and dance performed island-wide.

Yes, Bali has beaches, surfing, diving, and resorts great and small, but its the essence of Bali and the Balinese that makes it so much more than just a fun-in-the-sun retreat. It is possible to take the clich of the smiling Balinese too far, but in reality, the inhabitants of this small island are indeed a generous, genuinely warm people. Theres also a fun, sly sense of humour behind the smiles; upon seeing a bald tourist, many locals exclaim bung ujan (todays rain is cancelled) its their way of saying that the hairless head is like a clear sky.

On Bali you can lose yourself in the chaos of Kuta or the sybaritic pleasures of Seminyak, surf wild beaches in the south or just hang out on Nusa Lembongan. You can go family friendly in Sanur or savour a lavish getaway on the Bukit Peninsula. Ubud is the heart of Bali, a place where the spirit and culture of the island are most accessible. It shares the islands most beautiful rice fields and ancient monuments with east Bali. The middle of Bali is dominated by the dramatic volcanoes of the central mountains and hillside temples such as Pura Luhur Batukau (one of the islands 20,000). North and west Bali are thinly populated but have diving and surfing that make any journey worthwhile.

Almost as big as Bali, Lombok is the undiscovered place next door. From its volcanic centre to untrodden idyllic beaches like Mawun, it rewards travellers who want to explore. Many are drawn to mighty Gunung Rinjani, Indonesias second-highest volcano. Rivers and waterfalls gush down its fissured slopes, while its summit complete with hot springs and a dazzling crater lake is the ultimate trekker prize. The fabled Gili Islands three exquisite droplets of white sand sprinkled with coconut palms and surrounded by coral reefs teeming with marine life add a dose of south Bali buzz and, on Gili Trawangan, legendary nightlife.

A Festival of Festivals

There you are sipping a coffee at a cafe in, say, Seminyak or Ubud, when theres a crash of the gamelan and traffic screeches to a halt as a mob of elegantly dressed people comes flying by bearing pyramids of fruit, tasselled parasols and a furred, masked Barong or two. Its a temple procession disappearing as suddenly as it appeared, with no more than the fleeting sparkle of gold and white silk and hibiscus petals in its wake. Dozens occur daily across Bali.

FELIX HUG

Aaah, a Spa

Whether its a total fix for the mind, body and spirit, or simply the desire for a bit of serenity, visitors to Bali spend many happy hours (sometimes days) being massaged, scrubbed, perfumed, pampered, bathed and blissed out. Sometimes all this attention to your wellbeing happens on the beach or in a garden; other times its in stylish, even lavish surroundings. As the Balinese massage techniques of stretching, long strokes, skin rolling and palm-and-thumb pressure result in an all-over feeling of calm, its the perfect holiday prescription. Aaah

JERRY ALEXANDER

Sybaritic Stays

On an island that honours art and serenity, is it any wonder youll find some of the worlds finest hotels and resorts? From blissful retreats on south Balis beautiful beach in Canggu or Seminyak to perches on cliffs above the dazzling white sands that dot the Bukit Peninsula, these stylish hotels are as lovely outside as they are luxurious inside. Further resorts by vaunted architects can be found in Ubuds river valleys and in remote idyllic coastal locations.

Amandari hotel, Ubud
TONY WHEELER

Homestays

Off with his head! You wont hear it but you might think it as another chicken is prepared for a meal in a traditional family compound. Its but one of many moments within the daily rhythms of life as three or more generations make offerings, prepare food, come and go from the rice fields or perhaps create a spot of music. Many families have a couple of simple rooms they let out to visitors, so for the price of a nights sleep you can witness this tableau.

JERRY ALEXANDER

Balis Food

Oh goody! Its virtually impossible not to say this when you step into a classic warung for lunch to find dozens of freshly made dishes on the counter awaiting you. It shouldnt surprise that this fertile island provides a profusion of ingredients that combine to create fresh and aromatic dishes. Local specialities such as babi guling , roast suckling pig thats been marinated for hours in spices, will have you lining up again and again. Try lunch at one of the excellent Balinese cafes in Denpasar ( ).

ANDREW BROWNBILL

Offerings

A wisp of smoke rises from an incense stick perched in an exquisite array of orange flower petals on a banana leaf no bigger than a deck of cards. Youll quickly realise these Balinese offerings are everywhere outside your hotel room door, a tiny shrine on the beach, even at the end of the bar. They come in all shapes and sizes and are made throughout the day and night. Some are grand assemblages of fruit and food but most are tiny, appearing as if by magic.

HOLGER LEUE

Crafts of the Islands

Using a simple knife others might use to cut an apple, a Balinese craftsman sits in the shade of his family compounds frangipani tree and carves a masterpiece. Yes, schlock is sold here in profusion, as it is everywhere, but true local crafts draw on experience handed down for generations and nurtured through the years. Wood carvings are used for temple ceremonies and traditional performances such as the Barong, where colourful, animated wooden masks are integral to the story, while in Batubulan ( ) stone carvers create art from rocks.