Patricia Gajo - Frommers Montreal and Quebec City

The Best of Montral & Qubec City

The cafes along Rue Saint-Denis are the heart of francophone Qubec City.

If the province of Qubec had a tagline, it could be: Any excuse for a party. An enormous joie de vivre pervades the way that Montral and Qubec City go about their business. Their calendars are packed with festivals and events that bring out both locals and guests from around the world year-round.

Youll also find that Montral is a modern city in every regard. Skyscrapers come in unexpected shapes and noncorporate colors. Theres a beautifully preserved historic district. The subway system, called the Mtro, is modern and swift. And the citys creative inhabitants provide zest to the ever-changing Plateau Mont-Royal and Mile End, large neighborhoods of artists lofts, boutiques, and cafes, and miles of restaurantsmany of which are unabashedly clever and stylish.

Qubec City, more traditional and more French, is replacing its former conservatism with sophistication and playfulness. With an impressive location above the St. Lawrence River and carefully tended 18th- and 19th-century houses, this city is almost impossibly romanticand unlike any other in North America.

The most unforgettable Travel Experiences

Montral

Enjoy an Afternoon or Evening of Jazz: In downtown, Vieux-Montral, and the Plateau, this is a favorite pastime of locals and visitorsespecially in July, during the renowned Festival International de Jazz. See Music & Nightclubs, in .

Savor Gourmet Meals at Affordable Prices: Experience all of French cuisines interpretationstraditional, haute, bistro, Qubcoisthe way the locals do: by ordering the table dhte specials. Youll get to indulge in three or more courses for a fixed price that is only slightly more than the cost of a single main course. Most restaurants offer the option.

Explore Vieux-Montral: The citys oldest quarter has an overwhelmingly European flavor. Place Jacques-Cartier is the most popular outdoor square, and in any direction, youll find museums and churches worth savoring. A revitalized waterfront also inspires strolling or biking.

Place Jacques-Cartier is Montrals most popular public square.

Qubec City

Linger at an Outdoor Caf: Tables are set out at Place dArmes in Upper Town, in the Quartier du Petit-Champlain in Lower Town, and along the Grande-Alle. Its a quality-of-life invention the French and their Qubcois brethren have perfected. See for more information.

Soak Up Lower Town: Once all but abandoned to the grubby edges of the shipping industry, the riverside neighborhood of Basse-Ville/Vieux-Port has been reborn. Antiques shops, bistros, and chic boutique hotels now fill rehabilitated 18th- and 19th-century buildings.

Horse-drawn carriages are part of the romance of Old Qubec City.

Take in a Free Summer Evening Show by Cirque du Soleil: The internationally known circus company puts on free performances on city streets most summer nights through at least 2013, in a program that got its start as part of Qubec Citys 400th anniversary celebrations.

Romantic Qubec City

Every narrow street, leafy plaza, sidewalk cafe, horse-drawn calche, pitched roof, and church spire breathes recollections of Frances provincial towns. But to get the full Qubec City treatment, amble those streets in the evening and find a bench on Terrasse Dufferin, the promenade alongside the Chteau Frontenac. The river below will be the color of liquid mercury in the moons glow, and on a clear night, youll see a sky of stars. Faint music from the botes in Lower Town is a possibility. Romance is a certainty.

The best Splurge Hotels

Montral

Htel Le St-James, 355 rue St-Jacques ouest ( 866/841-3111 or 514/841-3111): This former 19th-century bank in Vieux-Montral lets no detail escape its attention. From an opulent restaurant to marble-rich bathrooms to an immaculately trained staff, Htel Le St-James provides an experience that may well be the highlight of your visit.

W Montral, 901 Rue de Square-Victoria ( 877/946-8357 or 514/395-3100): Hip, chic, and nightclubby, the W has three bars and lounges, a swank restaurant, and a clientele composed of knockouts of both genders. If youre staying here, it wont hurt if your platinum card is paid up and you dont need much sleep.

Montrals W Hotel is known for its lively nightlife.

Qubec City

Auberge St-Antoine, 8 rue St-Antoine ( 888/692-2211 or 418/692-2211): Sure, theres the Chteau Frontenac, looming on the cliffs above, the very symbol of the city. But for a more intimate visit, stay in Basse-Ville (Lower Town). This romantic luxury hotel has grown into one of Qubecs most desirable lodgings, with an arresting lounge and a top restaurant to boot.

The Auberge Saint-Antoine is one of Qubec Citys most romantic hotels.

Htel Le Germain-Dominion, 126 rue St-Pierre ( 888/833-5253 or 418/692-2224): An anchor in the successful redevelopment of the once-dreary Vieux-Port, the Dominion has bedding so cozily enveloping that you may not want to go out. Do, thoughfor the fireplace, croissants, and caf au lait in the lobby, if nothing else.

The best Moderately Priced Hotels

Montral

Auberge Bonaparte, 447 rue St-Franois-Xavier ( 514/844-1448 ): Even the smallest rooms in this fashionable urban inn are gracefully presented, and taking breakfast in the elegant Bonaparte restaurant is an especially civilized way to start the day.

Le Square Phillips Htel & Suites, 1193 Square Phillips ( 866/393-1193 or 514/393-1193): Tidy, centrally located, and equipped with full kitchens in every unit. Theres even a rooftop pool.

The rooftop pool at Le Square Phillips Htel & Spa in Montral.

Qubec City

Courtyard Marriott Qubec, 850 Place dYouville ( 866/694-4004 or 418/694-4004): A hot property in recent years due to room renovations, friendly staff, and fair prices. Beds are piled with five pillows and sheet-cover duvets.