Susi Gott Séguret - Cooking with Truffles
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- Book:Cooking with Truffles
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The Basic Four
T RUFFLES ARE MIND-BLOWINGLY MARVELOUS . And so is Susi Gott Sgurets enticing new book Cooking with Truffles.
F RANCES M AYES , author of Under the Tuscan Sun and See You in the Piazza
I N HER VOLUME Cooking with Truffles, Susi Gott Sguret explores this glorious fungus in ways that not only unwraps the mystery but unearths the path to mastery. Susi is writing for the chef who has been plunged unexpectedly into cooking with truffles, but she also writes for an old kitchen hand. If you are fortunate enough to be in the kitchen with a truffle, fresh from the earth, then you must have this book.
M ARK R OSENSTEIN , author of In Praise of Apples
T HE SENSE OF TASTE and the art of living are two qualities which cannot be improvised; they are cultivated, much like the truffle. Susi excels at both, with much generosity. I admire her culinary gifts, and above all, her talent in the art of transmitting and sharing her knowledge, of which this work isonce againthe perfect illustration.
E DWIGE R EGNIER , Director, Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne
I DONT KNOW ANYONE else in the culinary world who gives more generously of her time and talents; sharing her food, music and sense of purpose with so much enthusiasm.
J ANE M ORGAN S MITH , Truffles NC
I HAVE KNOWN Susi for many years, and can only say good things about her multiple skills: fabulous chef, fantastic instructor, incredible participant in our truffle events, and a great writer. And of course, a great personality and friend. This new recipe book truly does justice to the multiple ways truffles can be prepared and served.
F RANKLIN G ARLAND , Garland Truffles
Hatherleigh Press is committed to preserving and protecting the natural resources of the earth. Environmentally responsible and sustainable practices are embraced within the companys mission statement.
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COOKING WITH TRUFFLES
Text copyright 2021 SG Sguret
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available upon request.
ISBN: 978-1-57826-819-1
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher.
C OVER AND I NTERIOR D ESIGN BY C AROLYN K ASPER P HOTOGRAPHY BY F RANOIS DE M LOGUE , SG S GURET AND P IERRE S OURZAT .
Printed in the United States
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
T HIS BOOK is for the chef who has been plunged unexpectedly into cooking with truffles, and for the home cook who seeks some overarching guidelines to experimenting with this precious tuber. It is also for anyone looking for a collection of simple, doable, everyday recipes which can be confected just as well with or without the truffle.
Most importantly, it is a tribute to the truffle farmers who have worked and watched and waited in blind faith for their first and following crops to come to fruition, who are brave enough to embrace a seemingly impossible passion, who have generously shared their experiences with me along the way. And for the truffle itself, that dark, deep, mysterious nugget that signifies the deliciousness hidden in each one of us.
by Tom Michaels
H OW DO WE move the world forward? We write books. We read books. In writing this work, Susi has indeed nudged our beautiful world a good piece (as she might say in her Appalachian idiom) forward. I invite you to approach her work first as literature in its true sense, then as a practice.
Its like discovering something that hits you at the core. You find yourself slowing down. You pause to savor the words, the phrases. You dont want the book to end. You experience something, the je ne sais quoi, of what really is. And when you bring her suggested creations to table, you will know you have done something that whispers, Yes, I did itlove lives here!"
Fluffy language aside, thats what truffles do. Of all foods, I cant emphasize how much I truly believe truffles to be unique in bringing art to gustatory life. Welcome to Truffleland. As a plodding farmer, really not much different from the French peasant farmers of a hundred years ago, I husbanded truffles. Mechanization and new science have not changed the essential relationship between the farmer and his or her work. The humility is real, because anyone who has messed with truffles knows that they make you face the truth about our trivial command over Nature.
All I can do is offer them to the chef. They are still nothing until an artist uses them. Susi is the artist. I just supply the paint.
As you turn the pages of this book, imagine bursts of aromas inflaming your pleasure centers. There is much misdirection and misinformation about truffles but Susi, with her keen focus on flavor and taste, has cleared the way for you. Follow her temptations and nudges and you will find all your synapses firing to unleash the sybaritic delights that truffles offer.
A coda: you can find other truffle cookbooks (though even with the search power of Amazon and Google its still kind of hard to do), but this is the only book I know where the recipes are attentively created or selected by a French-trained chef who is unequivocally in love with the truffle. She now welcomes you into her kitchen.
My advice: jump into the recipes! Move yourself and your close friends at tableand the rest of the worldforward!
T OM M ICHAELS
Tennessee Truffle, Limestone, Tennessee
I T WAS IN 2007 that I fell deeply and irrevocably in love with truffles. The month was January, and a chilly mistral swept over the soft, grey curves of a wintry Provence, carrying with it the scent of wild rosemary and thyme, and the tang of woodsmoke rising from kitchen fires fed by sarment (discarded grape vines) left over from orchard trim.
I had made the trek by train from Paris, an hour north of my then-home in the Loiret , speeding south through fields of winter wheat, past pastures inhabited by Charolaisthe prized beef cattle from central and southeastern Franceunder towering remains of medieval castles long abandoned by their lords and ladies, past village after village, each one clustered around an ancient church, built out of stone and faith.
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