Title Page
Dedication
To my mom, Karen Levin, who is an amazing and talented recipe developer, tester, and cookbook author. She is my partner in all things food and in this book, and my greatest mentor.
Contents
Introduction
Lake Michigan is a quiet, subtle force in the American landscape. Its a source for recreation and fishing and food, affecting what we grow, the water we drink, and the air we breathe. On clear days, we stare into the sunset, thinking we can catch a glimpse of our neighbors on the other side of the lake, but let us not fool ourselves; we never do.
This is the vast and clear mishigami (great water), as the Ojibwa call it the place in and around where Native American tribes go for fish and wild rice, and indigenous berries, nuts, and more. This is the lake where for centuries, fishermen have cracked the dawn with their boats and tugs and trap nets of whitefish. Its the place where the rocks can either hurt your feet or the sand will tickle your toes; where cool winds blow at night, tempering the air and earth for vineyards and fruit orchards nearby and tenderizing asparagus and sweet onions after the first snows thaw. This is the lake where tourists flock from Memorial Day to Labor Day in hopes of a relaxing retreat or, come winter, where sheets of ice coat the surface and powerful winds make for oceanic sailing. This is the nearly 23,000-square-foot body of water that can give life as easily as it can take it. This is the spirit, power, and beauty of the Upper Midwest.
The Lake Effect is truly a phenomenon. And Im not just talking about the weather.
If youre a city dweller heading toward Americas Third Coast, something happens when you venture into these lakeside towns. Your blood pressure starts to drop as you take a big breath of fresh, clean air, sighing as a wave of calm washes over you. The quiet and stillness quickly become restfulness.
As a child, my family took vacations to Lake Michigan from our home in the Chicago area. One of my earliest food memories comes from the crunch of crispy fried perch, its steaming-hot tender flesh falling apart with every bite and every dip into my jar of tangy tartar sauce. Another memory stems from cherry pie that craveable contrast of sweet and tart cherries encased in a buttery crust, flaking with every stab of my fork.
As an adult, I enjoy visiting farms and farmers markets throughout the Upper Midwest, grabbing hold of just-picked peaches, blueberries, and crisp, tart apples in Michigan; supersweet carrots and asparagus in Wisconsin; and big, bright tomatoes from Illinois, taking the loot back to the vacation cottage to create delicious meals for family and friends. The tradition of vacationing, cooking, and eating along Lake Michigan spans generations.
Its my intent and hope that this book might stir up some nostalgia among those who live or vacation on Lake Michigan, and perhaps create new traditions and memories of family, friends, barbecues, beaches, cooking, and cottages. But its also my hope that this book inspires those who are new to the area to join in what is for so many of us a special community of return vacationers, long-time residents, and artisan food purveyors, bonded by the lakefront on all sides.
When it comes to the food of the region, things are starting to change. Were going back to our roots, getting to know our farmers and ranchers and fisheries. We may make the same recipes our grandparents did, but theyre made with the cleanest, most sustainable local ingredients that have helped those recipes stand the test of time. Theres nothing quite like a homemade pie with just a few ingredients, grown with the most care and attention, or lake perch that came straight from the waters next door. A growing force of food artisans in different communities, buoyed by the enthusiasm we the consumers have shown for them, has also helped propel this heritage movement forward. Were going back to old traditions, slowing down and enjoying life. Were cooking from scratch and spending more time with friends and families. What better place to do this than in our homes, cottages, and cabins near the lake?
You may be lucky enough to live year-round in Door County or Traverse City or elsewhere along the lakefront, letting friends, family, and visitors in on your secrets (from time to time) for the best fish fry and brandy old-fashioned, the best farmers market and fresh-baked fruit pie. You may have a second home you visit often, whenever you can find the time to escape. Or, you may be more like me, a city dweller who only dreams about this second home but finds solace in different borrowed homes along the way.
Many people who live on the East or West Coasts or in the South like to lump us into one category as the vast, mysterious Midwest. But those of us who live in the Upper Midwest know we share traits, foods, and cultures unique to our region and far different from those in states like Kansas and Ohio. We may have our unique preferences and playful rivalries between Michiganders and Wisconsinites, and with Illinois people like me but the closer to Lake Michigan you go, the more similar we become, bonded by this source of drinking water, food, happy memories, and peace. Even visitors who have fallen in love with the likes of Door County and Traverse City are welcomed with open arms into the club I like to call Lake Michiganites: a little rough around the edges, perhaps, but warm and welcoming at the core.
Whatever your story, its my hope that our shared love of this regions delicious food and great people and, of course, the lake unites us all.
How to Use This Book
First, this is a cookbook for Lake Michigan dwellers who also happen to be food enthusiasts. Its for those who grew up in the Midwest or those who have since left and crave that feeling of home and vacation. Its for those who spend their summers or winters, in some cases at different spots along the Lake Michigan coast, from Door County to Chicago, Saugatuck, and Traverse City and who are looking to re-create or reinvent their favorite comfort dishes on the road or at home.
This book is for the hobby cook, the advanced cook, or the cook who wants to take a little extra time to explore in the kitchen. Some recipes are super-simple, while others might require a little extra time, patience, and TLC. Many combine old traditions with local ingredients and progressive chef-inspired ideas.