David Lebovitz - Drinking French

Some of the recipes in this book include raw eggs. When eggs are consumed raw, there is always the risk that bacteria, which is killed by proper cooking, may be present. For this reason, always buy certified salmonella-free eggs from a reliable grocer, storing them in the refrigerator until they are served. Because of the health risks associated with the consumption of bacteria that can be present in raw eggs, they should not be consumed by infants, small children, pregnant women, the elderly, or any persons who may be immunocompromised. The author and publisher expressly disclaim responsibility for any adverse effects that may result from the use or application of the recipes and information contained in this book.

Copyright 2020 by David Lebovitz

Photographs copyright 2020 by Ed Anderson

Photo on by David Lebovitz

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Random House, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York.

www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Penguin Random House LLC.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Lebovitz, David, author. | Anderson, Ed (Edward Charles), photographer.

Title: Drinking French: the iconic cocktails, apritifs, and caf traditions of France, with 160 recipes / David Lebovitz; photographs by Ed Anderson.

Description: California: Ten Speed Press, [2020] | Includes index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2019019161 | ISBN 9781607749295 (hardcover)Subjects: LCSH: Cocktails. | AperitifsFrance. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.

Classification: LCC TX951 .L428 2020 | DDC 641.87/4dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019019161

Hardcover ISBN9781607749295

Ebook ISBN9781607749301

Food and drink styling by George Dolese

Prop styling by David Lebovitz and George Dolese

v5.4

prh

CONTENTS

AUTHORS NOTE

The recipes in this book are given in cups, ounces, and metric measurements. In some cases, Ive rounded amounts up or down slightly, if the precise conversion to metric is too persnickety and wont affect the results. Because liqueurs, spirits, and even fruit juices can vary in flavor and strength, its not always imperative to be ultra-precise with drinks. So, if a cocktail recipe calls for 22ml ( ounce) of a spirit or another ingredient, just aim for the midway point between 20 and 25ml in your measuring cup or jigger. In many instances, Ive kept measurements in teaspoons, as the French do, calling for a cuillre caf , a coffee (or tea) spoon. The metric equivalent of a teaspoon is 5ml, and a tablespoon is 15ml.

Cocktails are traditionally measured in ounces (or the metric equivalent), whereas other beverage recipes, especially non-alcoholic ones, are usually expressed in cups as well as ounces (and the appropriate metric equivalents). Because the recipes in this book range from hot chocolate, lemonade, and marshmallows to apritifs, infusions, and cocktails to candied nuts, home-cured salmon, and homemade syrups, please accept any variations in measuring methods that you might notice from one chapter to the next. Like the French, Im fond of rules, but also know when to diverge from them.

1 CAF DRINKS

Chocolat Chaud
Hot Chocolate

Chocolat Chaud au Caramel Beurre Sal
Hot Chocolate with Salted Butter Caramel

Chocolat Chaud aux pices
Spiced Hot Chocolate

Guimauves lArmagnac
Armagnac Marshmallows

Th la Menthe
Mint Tea

Vin Chaud
Hot Mulled Wine

Caf Frapp
Coffee Frapp

Chocolat Frapp
Chocolate Frapp

Caf Frapp Glac Irlandais
Coffee Frapp with Irish Cream Liqueur

Citronnade
Lemonade

Citronnade Gingembre-Romarin
Ginger-Rosemary Lemonade

Limonade
Sparkling Lemonade

Menthe lEau et Grenadine
Mint and Pomegranate Syrup Drinks

Diabolo Menthe Classique
Mint Lemon Soda

Diabolo Menthe Fait Maison
Homemade Mint Lemon Soda

Blanc Lim
Lemon-Flavored Wine

Panach
Lemon-Flavored Beer

Monaco
Lemon PomegranateFlavored Beer

Tango
Pomegranate-Flavored Beer

Picon Bire
Beer with Picon

Kir
White Wine with Black Currant Liqueur

Kir Royal
Champagne with Black Currant Liqueur

On the darkened streets and sidewalks of France, the flicker of lights in corner cafs signals the start of the day. Whether youre in a city like Paris, Lyon, or Marseille, or a village in the countryside, once the lights are on, the next order of business is to flip the switch on the coffee machine. With that simple action, the day begins.

While the machine is warming up, the beige ceiling lights cast a warm glow on wicker chairs stacked one on top of the other, along with the caf tables, waiting to be set up on the sidewalk outside. Baguettes picked up at the local bakery on the way to work are propped up against the bar in a paper sack, and will eventually be sliced for breakfast tartines , served with butter and jam . But first things first: coffee.

Le barman (or woman) releases a sputtering blast of steam from the milk-warming wand, an indication that the machine is ready to go, as people start to wander in. In the wintertime, the warmth is definitely part of the attraction, as are the free morning newspapers on wooden spindles. But any time of the year, locals gather at their neighborhood bar to stand and drink a short, dark caf express while reading the paper or catching up on commrages (gossip) in the neighborhood. Most of the customers have just woken up. Others are heading home after a long night of workor play. But it doesnt matter: There are no judgments in a French caf; everyone is welcome to gather there, whether you spent the night sweeping the streets (or working the streets), are on your way to a business meeting, or are a timid tourist, hoping to get your first taste of France.

I fell into the latter category. On my first visit to Paris, zonked after the long flight from California, I walked into a nearby caf and ordered a coffee at the counter. After the barman strong-armed the filter holder into place, he hit the switch and the espresso machine dribbled a trickle of murky dark liquid into a cup placed underneath the spout. When the flow of coffee stopped, he slid the cup and saucer toward me. I dutifully picked up my coffee, walked over to a table, and sat down to drink it. Within seconds the barman barked something at me that I didnt understand (with my nonexistent comprehension of French, and French caf customs), but eventually I deduced that Id made a grave error by taking my coffee from the bar to a table, where the price of a cup doubles. I slunk back to the bar, embarrassed by my gaffe , finished my coffee, and left. That was my first lesson in how to drink, and behave, in a French caf.