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First published in 2022 by Hachette India
(Registered name: Hachette Book Publishing India Pvt. Ltd)
An Hachette UK company
www.hachetteindia.com
Copyright Pallavi Nigam Sahay 2022
Pallavi Nigam Sahay asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work.
Photographs by Shabin E. and Yasmin Al-Shaqsi
Photographs Pallavi Nigam Sahay 2022
Cover and book design by Meena Rajasekaran
All rights reserved. No part of the publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system (including but not limited to computers, disks, external drives, electronic or digital devices, e-readers, websites), or transmitted in any form or by any means (including but not limited to cyclostyling, photocopying, docutech or other reprographic reproductions, mechanical, recording, electronic, digital versions) without the prior written permission of the publisher, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.
The views and opinions expressed in this book, and the recipes provided in it, are the authors own and the facts are as reported by her. The publishers are not in any way liable for the same. It is the sole responsibility of any cookbook user to check the list of ingredients, and cooking media provided to determine if any medical condition may arise from the consumption of the ingredients or in any combination of the ingredients in preparation of the recipe. Likewise, all instructions and timelines are for guidance only; and must be correlated to the actual kitchen in use, and utensils or appliances being used for preparation. Readers are advised to exercise a very high level of caution when following a recipe involving any potentially hazardous activity, including the use of high temperatures, open flames and when deep frying. In particular, when frying, add ingredients carefully to avoid splashing, and never leave the pan or flame unattended. The author and the publishers are not responsible for any problems or hazards including but not limited to allergic reactions, accidents or any harm caused during the preparation of any of the recipes in the book.
ISBN 978-93-91028-94-7
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Athato ghumakkar jigyasa
Mann milla toh mela nahi toh sabse bhala akela
Now for a study of ghumakkar, the unquenchable curiosity to wander
Where minds meet it's a festival, else much better to be alone.
Mahapandit Shri Rahul Sankrityayan,
Ghumakkar Shastra
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For MaPapa, MummyPapa, Sushmita, Kunal, and every tea lover in the world.
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I want to extend my sincere thanks to Parag Hatibarua, Madhurjya Gogoi, Sandeep Gogoi, Pabitra Ningda, Jaulet Manje, Manoj and Leena, Nalanda and Oshi, Boke, Kadu, Pabo, Mahesh Lama, Hrishikesh Lama, Bertie, Rajah Banerjee, Sanjay Das, Sanaya Khan, Sanjith Raju, Yezdi Mistry, Dr Sibby Matthew, Raj Ettan and Chechi, Shabin E., Meena Rajasekaran, Poulomi Chatterjee and the team at Hachette India, and so many others who have helped, guided and blessed me on this beautiful sojourn.
Contents
On a cold winter morning in October 2018, I stood on the bank of the River Brahmaputra in Guwahati, and was overcome by the same sense of curiosity that I had felt while exploring the food of Italy during a culinary course there. For someone who is as passionate about tea as I am, the solitude of tea estates feels like a carefully preserved slice of history; the tough, steep terrains of tea tree covered mountains narrates the story of the stubborn human spirit, the dense air seems to resonate with cheerful songs and giggles of those beautiful people who, for generations, have devoted their love and care to these pointy little leaves. A sense of excitement coursed through me, and I was sure that I was about to embark upon a beautiful journey in my tea trails across India.