Bunny Crumpacker - How to Slice an Onion: Cooking Basics and Beyond--Hundreds of Tips, Techniques, Recipes, Food Facts, and Folklore

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Table of Contents

Im grateful to five good cooks: Joan Schermerhorn, with whom Ive been exchanging recipes for years; Jil Picariello, whose excellent food is leavened with laughter and love; my dear sister June Alexander, who is the only other person in the world who remembers my mothers cheesecake (the best Ive ever tasted); Cathy Wolz, once again, not for numbers this time, but for her lovely Apple Chili Sauce; and David Calicchio, who will probably never write a cookbook, alas. My thanks are also heartfelt to my editor, Peter Joseph, who works hard and does so well, and to my good agent, Kate McKean, who is always generous with her time and good cheer, Sally Sturman for her charming drawings, and to Sallys capable and helpful agent, Melissa Turk and The Artist Network. Not finally, but always, Im grateful to Chick, first taster for all these years.

Perfect Figures
The Sex Life of Food
The Old-Time Brand-Name Cookbook
Old-Time Brand-Name Desserts

FOR CHILDREN
Alexanders Pretending Day

COWRITTEN WITH CHICK CRUMPACKER
Jazz Legends

Some Favorite Books

I love asking people what their favorite (book, poem, movie, play, musical, opera ) is, but I dont like answering that question when its asked of me. Nevertheless, this is an abbreviated list of some of my favorite books about food and cooking. They are kitchen-table books, as opposed to coffee-table books.

Cookbooks, Alphabetical by Author

Mark Bittman

How to Cook Everything: Simple Recipes for Great Food (paperback, Wiley, 2006; hardcover, Wiley, 1998)

A comprehensive, and thus invaluable, resourcesimple and clear throughout. Theres a revised, tenth anniversary edition (Wiley, 2008).

Julia Child

The Way to Cook (Knopf, 1989)

Julia Child was a great teacher and a fine cook. This book is lavishly illustrated (not quite coffee-table) and very thorough. I also value both Mastering the Art of French Cooking books, and The French Chef , her first book, which taught a whole generation about their own possibilities in the kitchen.

Laurie Colwin

Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen (paperback, Harper Perennial, 2000; originally published in 1988)

More Home Cooking: A Writer Returns to the Kitchen (paperback, Harper Perennial, 2000; originally published in 1993)

Both these books are good readingtheyre friendlyand have many good recipes.

Elizabeth David

Elizabeth David Classics: Mediterranean Food, French Country Cooking, Italian Cooking (Grub Street, 1999)

Three of the best, combined in one book, but also available separately. All of her books are wonderfulspringboards for the imaginationto dream over, and to cook from.

Michael Field

Culinary Classics and Improvisations (paperback, Norton, 1989) What to do with leftovers. A bit on the fussy side, but good ideas nonetheless.

Jane Grigson

Jane Grigsons Vegetable Book (Atheneum, 1979; paperback, Bison Books, 2007)

Jane Grigsons Fruit Book (Atheneum, 1982; paperback, Bison Books, 2007) All of Jane Grigsons books are impeccably researched; shes literate and witty, and there is much to learn in her pages, including often fascinating recipes.

Marcella Hazan

Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking (Knopf, 1992; paperback, Macmillan, 1995)

A combination, updated and expanded, of Hazans two earlier Italian cookbooks, The Classic Italian Cook Book and More Classic Italian Cooking , making it definitive. Her recipes are careful and clear; the flavors of her food are equally clear, and also delicious. Everything one needs to know about Italian cooking may be right here.

Edna Lewis

The Taste of Country Cooking (Knopf, 1976; thirtieth anniversary edition, Knopf, 2006)

In Pursuit of Flavor (Knopf, 1988)

The Edna Lewis Cookbook (Ecco, 1972)

From southern country cooking to chocolate soufflmany, many favorites.

Deborah Madison

Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone (Broadway, tenth anniversary edition, 2007) Just as the title says. Comprehensive, wide-ranging, clear recipes.

Richard Olney

Simple French Food (paperback, Wiley, 1992; original hardcover, Atheneum, 1974)

A classic, pure and simple, and a book that has inspired many of todays finest cooks. All of his books are estimable.

Jacques Ppin

Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home (Knopf, 1999)

Fast Food My Way (Houghton Mifflin, 2004)

Cooking at Home (another book that verges on coffee-table) compares the way the two master cooks approach the same dishes (point: theres more than one route to good food); its fun and instructive. The fast food book is about simple, easy, attractive food; there are many excellent ideas here. Theres a follow-up book, but of the two, I choose the first. His method and technique books are helpful guides.

Claudia Roden

The New Book of Middle Eastern Food (Knopf, 2000)

A classic, first published in 1972, now updated and revised, still wonderful. As are all her books, especially Mediterranean Cookery, The Good Food of Italy, and Everything Tastes Better Outdoors.

John Thorne

Simple Cooking (paperback, North Point Press, 1996)

Mouth Wide Open: A Cook and His Appetite , with Matt Lewis Thorne (paperback, North Point Press, 2008)

Essays about food (many first published in Thornes excellent food newsletter, Simple Cooking . There are several books between the two listed above (the first and the most recent); theyre all both personal and academic, discussions about recipes and recipes themselves.

There are many books to add to this list of favorites among favorites. Just a few, then, more informally, beginning with three of my own: The Old-Time Brand-Name Cook Book, Old-Time Brand-Name Desserts , and The Sex Life of Food . The first two are a look at American cooking from 1875 to 1950, through the medium of recipe pamphlets, with original illustrations, quotations, and updated recipes. The Sex Life of Food is about those places where psychology meets the food we eat and the way we eat itserious fun, wide-ranging, from sex and food to Adolf Hitlers vegetarianism. It includes a few recipes, two of which are included in this book.

A few others I cant resist listing: Nigel Slaters books; Love, Time & Butter by Joe Hyde; The Splendid Tables How to Eat Supper, by Lynne Rossetto Kasper and Sally Swift; Arthur Schwartzs What to Cook When You Think Theres Nothing in the House to Eat and his Soup Suppers and Jewish Home Cooking ; Mimi Sheratons The German Cookbook ; The Foods and Wines of Spain by Penelope Casas; Bistro Cooking by Patricia Wells; and almost any early edition (mine is 1964, but I believe 1975 is considered the classic) of Joy of Cooking .

If you like reading about food, there are many excellent books from which to choose, by such writers as A. J. Liebling ( Between Meals) and, years later, Calvin Trillin (the wonderful Alice trilogy). About professional cooking and what its like behind the scenes in big kitchens, theres Bill Bufords Heat , andfrom earlier days, but still very much worth readingGeorge Orwells Down and Out in Paris and London , and mystery writer Nicolas Freelings The Kitchen .

Out-of-print books can almost always be found at reasonable prices (if youre not looking for first editions) at used bookstores and online through AbeBooks, Powells Books, Amazon, and Barnes & Noble.

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