Matt Moore - The Souths Best Butts: Pitmaster Secrets for Southern Barbecue Perfection

THE SOUTHS BEST BUTTS

PITMASTER SECRETS FOR SOUTHERN BARBECUE PERFECTION

MATT MOORE

AUTHOR OF

A SOUTHERN GENTLEMANS KITCHEN

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

OPINIONS ARE LIKE BUTTSEVERYBODY HAS ONE. THE SAME COULD BE SAID ABOUT BBQ. AFTER ALL, THERE ARE AS MANY TYPES OF BBQ AS THERE ARE CHEFS. AND WHEN IT COMES TO GOOD CUE, EVERYBODY HAS AN OPINION. THROUGHOUT THE BBQ BELT, AND AMERICA FOR THAT MATTER, YOU WILL FIND COUNTLESS AND VARYING VIEWS, RECIPES, TECHNIQUES, AND TALL TALES THAT ALL PLAY THEIR PART IN THE RELIGION THAT IS BBQ.

Yes I said it, it's true. Southern BBQ is its own religion. And to experience it is akin to hearing the Gospel for the first time.

Smoke, perfumed with burning hardwoods, hisses and puffs out of open pits or smokers welded by hand. Theres the faint sound of a sizzle, from time to time, as the slowly cooked meats gently self-baste, giving up their fatty goodness to flavor the fire. All the while, glowing embers snap and hum as they steadily smolder, releasing their hard-earned flavor that softly kisses the meat.

And then, of course, there are the pitmasters men and women alike who serve as the grand conductors, or the preachers if you will, over the entire process. These folks hold as many secrets and hard-earned knowledge as they do good story and charm. At their basic level, pitmasters are perfectionists like no othersenduring years of trial and error to perfect their craft, often spending their entire existence smelling of smoke and meat while carefully drawing out the best of their cue during the hours when the rest of the world sleeps.

Creating BBQ is a humbling artas its not uncommon for nearly half a days work to be devoured in minutes, and, of course, judged to the nth degree by said patron. That being said, no true pitmaster cooks seeking recognition from others. Instead, it is an inner desire, almost primal, if you will, to persistently stand among the smoke and the flames to bring out the most beautifully nuanced and delicious tastes beloved the world over. Like all things worthwhile in life, mastering the art of BBQ is, well... it aint easy. One must constantly practice faith, persistence, and patience. But let me tell you, the rewards can be heavenly.

Ive been eating BBQ my entire life. More specifically, Ill say that the consumption of slow-roasted pig in its various forms is my favorite form of gluttony. I say that not with a sense of pride, rather its simply a way of life down here. If you cook BBQ, we will come, whether its for a covered-dish supper, neighborhood gathering, tailgate party, political rally, or a weddingyes, its entirely appropriate to serve BBQ at a wedding.

Good cue never grows tiresome. In fact, I believe that some of my happiest moments in life could all trace back to a soundtrack of BBQ in the backgroundyes, even including my own wedding.

That said, I must offer up my first, of many, opinions. When it comes to BBQ, the pork butt reigns supreme in my book. Sure, I like a good side of ribs, pulled chicken, brisket, chipped mutton, sausage, and whatever other protein hits the smoke, but the pork butt is often my starting point for defining and enjoying good cue. It is humble, affordable, and forgiving. It can also stretch to feed a crowd. At the same time, the cut is extremely variable. After all, Ive never come across a pork butt I didnt like, each one encompassing a different preparation, brine, rub, cooking technique, sauce, and method of service. The pork butt is ubiquitous, a veritable cornerstone of BBQ. As such, I felt compelled to travel throughout our fair South to visit and document the folks who pay homage to this cutone state and one butt at a time.

So, I ask you to journey with me as we seek those men and women who keep the flames alive. Whether out on the open road or via the friendly skies in a 76 Piper Cherokee, I invite you to sit right seat as I provide a sneak peek into the kitchens, smokehouses, and personalities of the BBQ Belts most enduring pitmasterssome known, and some youll soon discover. We will explore the marriage of meat, preparation, method, and sauce from state-to-state-to-state. I will showcase the honest stories and delicious results that can result only from hours, days, and years spent coaxing meltingly tender perfection from the humble pig. Of course, your bellies will soon be grumbling, so Ill let you take the reins. Ill deliver the tried and true pork butt recipes Ive managed to pry from these pitmasters, along with the trimmings, that will change the way you cook, smoke, grill, and eat.

Ready? Lets crack open a cold beer and get to work. I invite you to enjoy some of the Souths best butts.

A SHORT HISTORY OF THE PIG IN AMERICAN BBQ

THE STORY OF BBQ IN THE ANTEBELLUM SOUTH IS A BLEND OF HISTORY AND MYSTERY. THE TRUTH IS THAT A MYRIAD OF INFLUENCE, INGREDIENTS, CULTURE, AND YES, EVEN TECHNOLOGY ALL HELPED TO SPAWN AND SHAPE THE CRAFT.

For the Yankees, BBQ in the South is less verb and more noun. Barbecuing is not simply throwing meat on the grill and slathering it with sauce. As I, and others, will demonstrate in the pages that follow, barbecue takes more time, patience, and practice to perfect. So, be forewarned: if you invite me to a barbecue and you don't serve me slowly smoked pig (or other meats), I will refer to you properly and promptly as a Yankee. Whenever you grill your hamburgers, brats, pork chops, or steaks, do me a favor and invite me to a cookout or simply tell me you are grilling out... just don't call it barbecue, or barbecuing. Got it? Good.

And, now time for another opinion, which Texans (with their affinity for beef) and Kentuckians (with their love of neutrality and mutton) shall not take offense. True, Southern BBQ has one, and only one common denominator: pig. So lets dig in.