Carrie Frasure - Arizona Off the Beaten Path®: A Guide to Unique Places

If youd like to visit a community that is short in the way of tourist amenities but long on history, you might want to make a stop in Colorado City (928-875-2646), on AZ 389 immediately south of the Utah state line. The town, called Short Creek until 1958, has been around since the 1860s, when it was a Mormon settlement. When the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints outlawed polygamy in 1890, church members who decided theyd rather fight than switch headed for Short Creek. This tiny agro-community became known to church officials and Arizona law enforcement officers as a haven for polygamists, and Mormons continue to be thus characterized by Hollywood and other less-informed folk.

Over the next forty to fifty years, there were several arrests for polygamy, and some questionable detective work was done by agents investigating the populace by posing as filmmakers. On July 26, 1953, the towns male population was rounded up and taken to the schoolhouse (which still stands today), where they were arrested, and the children were led away in the custody of the state. The families were eventually reunitedeven in a conservative state like Arizona, the meat-hook approach to law enforcement didnt go over well. The governor responsible for the raid (conservative Republican Howard Pyle) was defeated for reelection, partly because of public disapproval of his methods in this case.

NORTHERN ARIZONA

From all appearances polygamy (which court rulings have declared is legal as a religious doctrine) is still practiced in Colorado City. For decades following the raid, outsiders were not especially welcome in town, and one can hardly blame residents. Though the gingham gowns, spit curls, and many other trappings of a simpler time still abound, the community is changing enough to make a genuine effort to accommodate travelers. Visitors report that people here are friendly and more than willing to give you directions or chat about what there is to see and do in the area.

One of the favorite activities here is hiking, as there are many wild areas to the north just across the Utah border. The vegetation here is typical of the high desertjunipers, sagebrush, some pion pinesand there are distinct seasonal changes in temperature: High double- to triple-digit readings are common in the summer, and during the winter the community experiences three or four good snowfalls.

If you get hungry while visiting Colorado City, the Vermillion Cliffs Candy Shop & Deli (928-875-8093) at Arizona Avenue and Richard Street is open from 5 a.m. to 3 p.m. and has a full breakfast menu, along with every type of sandwich imaginable. They also make their own candyincluding toffee, caramels, chocolate-covered peanuts, and date ballsand bake coffee cake, brownies, pies, and other goodies on the premises. Currently there are no motels in Colorado City; the nearest lodging is either in Hurricane, Utah, or Fredonia, Arizona.

One of the most spectacular nearby sights is Toroweap Point (spelled Tuweep on some maps), about 60 miles from Colorado City off AZ 389 down a lengthy stretch of graded (unpaved) road. The primary access point, also known as the Sunshine Route, is on BLM Road 109, which leaves the highway about 7 miles west of Fredonia. The Clayhole Route travels along BLM Road 5, which leaves the highway at Colorado City. Allow two to three hours to travel to Toroweap and be aware that the routes may be impassable when wet. The point juts out over the Colorado River, which lies about 3,000 feet below. Because its closer to the river than many areas of the Grand Canyon are, you get both a spectacular view and a real sense of the power of the Colorado. There is no charge for day use or the nine primitive campsites at the rim. At Toroweap, the Lava Falls Route drops 2,500 feet down a steep 1.5-mile trail to the Colorado River. Be aware that the trail is poorly marked and is exposed to the sun, making it one of the most strenuous trails into the canyon. A lot of visitors either dont know about Toroweap Point or decide that theyd rather see the Colorado from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, so chances are you can spend as long as you like at Toroweap and not get elbowed aside by other visitors.

AUTHORS TOP PICKS IN NORTHERN ARIZONA

Antelope Canyon

Antelope Point Marina

El Tovar Lodge

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

Grand Canyon National ParkNorth Rim

Museum of Northern Arizona

Pink Jeep Tours

Papillon Grand Canyon Helicopters

Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument

Wupatki National Monument

TOP ANNUAL EVENTS IN NORTHERN ARIZONA

FEBRUARY

International Film Festival

Sedona

International independent cinema, documentary, and animation, panel discussions featuring leading film professionals.

(928) 282-1177 or (888) 399-FILM; www.sedonafilmfestival.com

Winterfest

Flagstaff

Sled-dog races, llama games, winter sports, snow sculpture, parade, concerts, theater, art shows, historic tours, workshops, and winter stargazing.

(928) 774-4505; www.flagstaffchamber.com

MARCH

Grand Canyon State Winter Games

Flagstaff

Arizona Snowbowl, slalom and giant slalom races, all ages, 5K Nordic skirace, and ice hockey. Other games and activities are held in Phoenix and Tucson.

(928) 773-9707 or (480) 517-9700; www.gcsg.org

MAY

Rendezvous Days

Williams

Parade, black powder shoot, carnival, street dances, crafts, and music.

(928) 635-4061; www.williamschamber.com

Zuni Festival of Arts and Culture

Flagstaff

Zuni artists, dancers, and flute players perform at this festival at the Museum of Northern Arizona in partnership with the A:shiwi A:wan Museum and Heritage Center.

(928) 774-5213; www.musnaz.org

JUNE

Wool Festival

Flagstaff

Sheep shearing, spinning and weaving demonstrations, and livestock competition at the Arizona Historical Society Pioneer Museum.

(928) 774-6272; www.arizonahistoricalsociety.org

JULY

Arizona Highland Celtic Festival

Flagstaff

Celtic celebration honoring the people of Brittany, Cornwall, Scotland, and Wales.

(928) 774-9541; www.nachs.info

Hopi Festival of Arts and Culture

Flagstaff

Hopi artists, demonstrations, tribal dances, storytelling, and childrens activities at the Museum of Northern Arizona.

(928) 774-5213; www.musnaz.org

Western Arts Day

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim

Cowboy poetry readings, musical performances, and arts and crafts demonstrations.

(928) 638-7888; www.nps.gov/grca

AUGUST

August Native American Heritage Days

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim

Craft demonstrations, educational lectures, guided hikes, Indian arts and crafts, and Native American song and dance.

(928) 638-7888; www.nps.gov/grca

Cool Country Cruise-In and Route 66 Festival

Williams

1950s-style fun with a classic car show, battle of the bands, and a sock hop.

(928) 635-1418; www.williamschamber.com