U.S. & BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
SUSANNA HENIGHAN POTTER
The colors are the first things you notice in the Virgin Islands. The shimmering sea is a palette of blue, green, and purple. Bright white sand and green coconut palms create a picture so pleasing to the eye it is difficult to look away. When the sun shines brightly from above, the tropical colors intensify until they dance beneath the light.
At other times of day, color is more muted, but no less beautiful. At dawn, curls of orange and pink glow from behind the mountains. After the sun drops below the horizon in the evening, the sky turns a deep, dark blue so pure it could swallow you. At night, the sky is blackthe perfect backdrop for the extravagance of stars above.
But the Virgin Islands are much more than beautiful. They are alive. Step off the plane and you are bombarded by the lyrical and seemingly indecipherable tongue of the islandersan English awash with colorful phrases, colloquialisms, and a dialect that is part West African, part American, and part Caribbean. Study this language long enough and you have studied the Virgin Islands in their entirety.
One of the greatest things about the Virgin Islands is their sheer variety. Each island is distinct. You can immerse yourself in the pleasant bustle of St. Thomass Charlotte Amalie or choose to drop off the map on isolated Anegada. Pick your way through St. Croixs museums and historic attractions, or set sail from Tortola to one of the British Virgin Islands remote cays.
tropical flowers on St. Thomas
Many visitors simply want respite and relaxation. And there is nothing wrong with that. Indeed, when the first travelers began discovering the Virgin Islands, emptiness and obscurity were their greatest attractions. Despite decades of growth, it is still possible to find the same quietude that so delighted the first visitors to the Virgin Islands. At the right places and the right times, there is a stillness so powerful it steadies your mind and heart. In the middle of the forest of St. John, on a quiet beach in St. Croix, or at the heart of a seaside village on Tortola the stillness surrounds you. Dust settles, no one moves, and the world pauses just long enough for you to notice.
Life exists in equal measure to this silence: comings and goings on the harbors, dancing under the stars, a delightful mlange of cultures, the exciting start of a regatta. The joy of the Virgin Islands is that you choose your proportions: two parts stillness, one part life, chill and serve. Yield: paradise.
sailboats at anchor around The Baths National Park
an iguana on St. Thomas.
kitesurfing near Keel Point, Anegada
Where to Go
St. Thomas
Bustling, crowded, and commercial, St. Thomas is the most accessible of the Virgin Islands. Historic Charlotte Amalie is the main attraction, although spectacular beaches like Magens Bay and Smith Bay provide an escape from the city. Duty-free shopping for watches, jewelry, and crystal is a major draw for the millions of cruise ship passengers who visit here annually.
St. John
Some two-thirds of St. John is protected by the Virgin Islands National Park. St. John has the best beaches in the U.S. Virgin Islands, and the best hiking in the whole archipelago. Accommodations range from beachfront campgrounds to high-end resorts. Laid-back Cruz Bay and Coral Bay provide an antidote to the outdoors with funky shops, hip restaurants, and buzzing bars.
St. Croix
The largest of the Virgin Islands, St. Croix offers an appealing balance of history, natural beauty, and culture. Christiansted and Frederiksted are classic West Indian harbor towns with exquisite Danish colonial architecture. Buck Island is an ideal place for hiking and snorkeling. A lush rainforest is a perfect contrast to the sunny, sandy beaches, and divers come to explore the storied Wall off the islands north coast.
Tortola
Tortola is an island of steep hills, remarkable vistas, and quiet beaches. Delight in the exquisite white sand at Smugglers Cove, hike through a tropical forest at Sage Mountain National Park, or admire tropical flowers and trees at the Joseph Reynold ONeal Botanical Gardens. Nightlife is laid-back, except when full moon parties ignite the night with infectious Caribbean music and creative libations. A sailboat is the best way to explore the out islands, including Norman Island, believed to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevensons Treasure Island.
Virgin Gorda
At The Baths National Park, giant boulders create grottoes and pools that have delighted visitors for generations. On the other end of the island, North Sound is a sailors paradise: a community without roads, where the fastest route between two points is over the water. In between, find a series of
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