Darcy Williamson - Zakuska ~ Russias Little Bites

ZAKUSKA Russias LittleBites By Darcy Williamson Cover Painting by Suzanne Sheldon PUBLISHED BY: Darcy Williamson onSmashwords Copyright 2010 by Darcy Williamson Allrights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyrightreserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced,stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, inany form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,recording, or otherwise) without the prior written permission ofboth the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Smashwords Edition License Notes This ebookis licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This ebook may not bere-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to sharethis book with another person, please purchase an additional copyfor each person you share it with. If you're reading this book anddid not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your use only,then you should return to Smashwords.com and purchase your owncopy.

Thank you for respecting the author's work. ISBN 978-0-984-31366-2 First eBook Edition Table of Contents Introduction Chapter I Syr (cheese) Chapter II Pelmeni (filled dumplings) Chapter III Pirozhki (small filledpastries) Chapter IV Ribi, Eekrah (fish, caviar) Chapter V Myahssah (meat) Chapter VI Ptyeetsi (fowl) Chapter VII Salat (salad) Chapter VIII Khlyehb (bread) Chapter IX Avahshchyee (vegetables) Chapter X Tryehtyeh (dessert) Chapter XI Miscellaneous Index Introduction: Zakuska precedes evening meals throughout theSoviet Union. Depending on the occasion, or the economic standingof the family, these "little bites" range from humble offerings ofhard salami and bread to elaborate buffets complete with caviar andsmoked salmon. Whether humble or elaborate, the warmth andsincerity of the host and hostess presenting the zakuska nevervaries. Russian families set aside the timenecessary to enjoy their evening meal and zakuska is enjoyed as theactivities of the day are discussed. Hidden in the flaky pastriesor steamed dumplings of the "little bites" are remnants of previousmain courses.

The main course of the meal usually consistsof boiled meat, fish or poultry and vegetables, and is served anhour or two after the zakuska. Many couples in the large cities of Moscowand Leningrad dine out frequently. In restaurants and cafesscattered throughout the cities, well-dressed couples savor tidbitsfrom small dishes which garnish each table. It isn't unusual to seethe same couple, three hours later, lingering over dessert. When friends gather, it usually includes anevening meal. Stringed instruments of one kind or another usuallyappear and songs are sung as vodka and zakuska are passed.

Myhusband and I attended such gatherings of friends in Moscow. Thezakuska tables were filled with such delights as fried goat'scheese, pickled mushrooms, bliny, dumplings, salami, breads, smokedfish, caviarthe variety seemed endless! While vodka, Russian beerand wine took the late-November chill from our bodies, our newfound friends took the chill off our preconceived opinions of theSoviet people. Good friends and good zakuska warmed our spirits andleft a lasting glow of comradeship. Dining, for the people of the Soviet Union,is an event and zakuska marks the beginning of this very specialtime. When I now gulp down a quick meal amid a busy schedule, Ican't help reflecting on the leisurely zakuskathe unhurriednibbling of some tantalizing treasure. Chapter I Syr (cheese) The Mongols taught the Slavs how to makecurd cheese from goat's and ewe's milk.

The following recipe forBrynza is a curd form of an aged cheese known by the same name.Curd cheeses remain an important dairy food to the countries of theSoviet Union. The Turkmen nomads made a staple cheesecalled kurt, which was molded into a sphere and sun-dried. Cured inthis manner, the cheese would retain its edibility for years. Thischeese is reconstituted as needed by soaking small chunks in wateror milk. For eight months out of the year the nomads live almostentirely on the milk of horses, goats and sheepand cheese. Most cheeses found in the Soviet Union arewhite.

They include spicy pilchard, Swiss, Rossiky and Tvoraga potcheese. Cheese is most frequently eaten as a breakfast food. It isalso often found on Zakuska tables, since in metropolitan Russiancheese is seldom, if ever, served as a main course. Bry nza (sheep's milk curd cheese) Makes 10ounces gallon sheep's milk cup clabbered buttermilk 1 Tbsp. water plus 1 tsp. finely grounddried nettle (available at natural food stores) Pour gallon of fresh, raw sheep's milkinto a deep crock.

Milk should be slightly warmer than roomtemperature (75 to 80 degrees F.). Whisk buttermilk, water and nettle into themilk. Secure a square of double-folded cheesecloth over the openingof the crock, and set the crock in a warm place (75 to 80 degreesF.) for 24 hours. If the milk has not clabbered, continue to keepit in a warm spot until it does (may take up to 36 hours). At this point, a thin, watery liquid calledwhey will have separated from the curd. cubes. cubes.

Place a pan large enough to hold the crockon low heat. Add a few inches of water to the pot and set the crockin the pot. Insert a thermometer in the curd and keep heat on lowuntil the thermometer reaches 115 degrees F. Retain thistemperature for 30 minutes, gently stirring the cubed curdoccasionally. Line a colander with cheesecloth and gentlypour the curds and whey into the colander. Allow most of the wheyto drain out (save the whey for use in soups or gravies), then takeup the corners of the cheesecloth and hang the bundle over a bowlto catch any remaining whey that drips.

Hang for 2 hours. Bring to boiling a pot of water. Plunge thebundle into the water for 4 seconds, then hang the bundle again.After 1 hour, repeat the boiling water plunge, allow mixture todrain 1 hour, then wrap in several layers of cheesecloth andrefrigerate. The curds will be ready to eat in three to fourdays. Curds of Brynza are used in numerous ways.Often a bowl of curds is placed on the Zakuska table and spoonedover bliny. The curds are also used in dumplings (see Pelmeni withBrynza, Chapter II).

Brynza is good eaten by itself, or sprinkledwith caviar. Blirek (cheese filled turnovers)Approximately 24 1 cup warm milk (110 degrees F.) Dash of sugar 2 pkgs. active dry yeast 4 cups all-purpose flour 1/3 cup butter, melted 2 eggs, lightly beaten Filling : 1 cup Emmenthal cheese, finely grated cup Swiss cheese, finely grated cup curd Brynza or large curd cottagecheese cup sour cream 1 egg beaten To make pastry, sprinkle dash of sugar and 2pkgs. yeast over warm milk. Let stand 5 minutes in warm place. Stirgently.

Sift flour into a large bowl. Melt butter in small saucepanand cool to room temperature. Lightly beat eggs and butter intoyeast mixture. Pour over flour in bowl, stirring with wooden spoonto make soft dough. Turn on lightly floured surface and knead untilsmooth and satiny. Cover and let rise in warm place 1 hours.

Meanwhile, make filling by mixing togethergrated cheese, curd cheese, sour cream and beaten egg. Chill. On lightly floured surface, knead doughlightly. Roll out to a 20 x 16-inch rectangle. Divide doughlengthwise into six long pieces. Cut each strip into 4 equalpieces.

Place one slightly heaping tablespoon of filling in thecenter of each rectangle. Moisten all edges. Fold one of the longersides over filling. Fold up both short ends and turn filled rollseam side down, pressing lightly to seal edges. Place rolls onlightly oiled baking sheets, brush with beaten egg yolk and bake at400 degrees F. Serve hot. Serve hot.

The rolls may be made ahead and frozenbefore being baked. Place unbaked rolls on a lightly greased bakingsheet and freeze. When frozen, transfer rolls to a freezer bag, andstore in freezer until needed (keeps frozen up to 6 months). To bake, place frozen rolls on a lightlyoiled baking sheet, giving each -inch space from the edge of thesheet and other rolls. Allow to stand at room temperature for 60minutes, and then bake as previously directed. active dry yeast 1 cup lukewarm milk 4 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp. salt cup butter, room temperature 1 Tbsp. sugar Filling: 1 lb. sugar Filling: 1 lb.