CONTENTS
EVERYTHING YOU SEE I OWE TO PASTA
Sophia Loren
I have trained in Italian and French cuisine and the first commercial kitchen I worked in was LAnima, London, under the watchful eye of Francesco Mazzei. My time there made me aware of the wonders of Italian cooking. Many of the first dishes that I learned had a southern Italian feel to them thanks to Mazzeis Calabrian and sous-chef Lellos Sardinian roots. Since then, my food has been a colourful mix inspired by the food of Italy and my French childhood spent in St Tropez.
After my first cookbook NINA St Tropez was published I had already set my sights on my next food destination: Capri was my first choice. I was drawn to this island that seemed to possess a similar air to St Tropez. I first visited Capri with my family when I was 12-years-old and returning there to research the book, it felt very familiar. Italy is of course a beautiful country, but for me the Bay of Naples is the most alluring and captivating part. There is an energy that surrounds it, with its rocky cliffsides, black volcanic sand, piercing blue waters, welcoming locals, blue and white wooden fishing boats, noisy Piaggios and mouthwatering cuisine that, combined, adds to the charm of the place.
When at a wedding in Ravello, we dined under a canopy of olive trees overlooking a steep drop to the town of Amalfi: there is something magnetic about this part of Italy.
I was fascinated by Capri for its seascapes and beauty but I wanted to strip it back to something more accessible and discover the real food, the food that the locals have been enjoying for years. I want to take you along on the journey to uncover the classic recipes of the island and beyond. Travels that continue to Naples, the island of Ischia and along the Amalfi Coast.
Winding up the road along the dramatic coastline, my brother Christian and I ate our way past Sorrento, Nerano, Positano, Montepertuso, Praiano, Furore, Amalfi, Ravello and finished at the anchovy capital, Cetara. What struck me most about all the restaurants we came across was that many of them are family businesses, ones that were proud to have the mother of the family as the head chef. Being a female chef myself, I have never seen so many women working in the kitchen, and although in Italy this is traditional, it seemed quite modern.
In Campania, almost every household and restaurant grows their own fruit and vegetables. Of course, the perfect weather in Italy permits the cultivating of food that is unbelievably delicious served simply with a splash of extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and lemon juice. The locals are passionate about the quality of their food and share their recipes and ingredients generously. I am always drawn to a place not just for its food but also for the stories behind the food. Icons such as Maria Callas, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor and Jackie Kennedy who visited this region during the summers, and the dolce vita (the fashionable, wealthy crowd who came from Rome and the rest of Europe), all added to the glamour and intrigue of the area. NINA Capri features the recipes, places and people that I have encountered on my travels. My interpretations of these dishes have, where possible, been given a slightly healthier feel look out for the gluten-free and dairy-free symbols.
The food covers everything from breakfast through to dinner and desserts structured in the style of Italian meals. The combination of fish and meat with legumes and pulses helps lighten what would be heavy mains and illustrates some of the great food combos that people eat on the islands and coast. There are lemons growing absolutely everywhere in Campania, so forgive my obsession for squeezing them over most dishes. Lemons here are used in the same way as salt and pepper it brings all the flavours together right at the end, and adds a touch of freshness. This leads me to the stunning Caprese colours, which are without contest: the yellow from the Amalfi lemons, Grecian white of the houses and the bright blue of parasols and the sea.
I want you to fall in love with the place and people as much as its food. It is the dolce vita that made this a famous holiday location, and today I believe it still retains that old-world charm. I hope to bring you a little closer to the action and summer heat with the help of the locals. It is their traditions, their ingredients, recipes and family restaurants that keep this beautiful corner of the coast alive.
Breakfast is simple and unfussy here in Capri, and almost always surrounded by a stunning coastal view. As the sun beats down, you can enjoy gazing over one of the many rocky cliffsides. Here, breakfast is all about caff: caff latte, cappuccino or espresso. Everything else takes a bit of a back seat after coffee oclock and, possibly, a cigarette. Its a speedy affair with people who are on-the-go, after something quick. For me, breakfast was usually a cappuccino with a chocolate-hazelnut filled mini-croissant, the chocolate melting down my hand in the heat while I waited for the boat from the Naples port to Capri.
As a breakfast lover, I could not write a chapter simply about coffee so I have enhanced this section by creating delicious recipes using some of my favourite Italian ingredients. And keeping in the Caprese vein, you can enjoy your coffee with a tasty almond hazelnut or pistachio almond biscuit dunked into it. These biscuits are of course also amazing at teatime too. The markets and roadside stalls offer pretty much every type of summer fruit so take your pick and use them in the beautiful Amalfi fruit salad with home-made vanilla orange syrup. Many restaurants serve ricotta or similar soft cheeses to start the day, so I came up with ricotta pancakes. These are truly the lightest, fluffiest little hotcakes you will ever eat. Served with lashings of the almond honey butter it is off-the-chain! I cannot talk about this chapter without gushing about the chestnut banana bread. Chestnut flour is one of my favourite nut-based flours to cook with, and there is something so incredibly special about this particular gluten-free bread it has got to be baked ancora e ancora. And finally, for those who are not huge coffee fans I have included a couple of dark hot chocolates: a classic version and one made from raw cacao. Both are extremely good with my pandoro bread not to mention one of the three jams Ive created. Que buono!
MACEDONIA DI AMALFI CON SCIROPPO DI ARANCIA VANIGLIATA
AMALFI FRUIT SALAD WITH VANILLA ORANGE SYRUP AND FRESH MINT