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2008 by Claire Shaeffer
Published by
Krause Publications
4700 East Galbraith Road
Cincinnati, OH 45236
All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages in a critical article or review to be printed in a magazine or newspaper, or electronically transmitted on radio, television, or the Internet.
Other fine Krause Publications titles are available from your local bookstore, craft supply store, online retailer or visit our website at www.fwpublications.com.
12 11 10 09 08 5 4 3 2 1
Project Manager: Jay Staten, Toni Toomey
Content Editor: Barbara Smith
Copyeditor: Barbara Weiland Tagart
Illustrations: Rachael Knier and Rachael Smith
Cover designer: Julie Barnett
Interior designer: Sandy Kent and Rachael Smith
Photography (unless otherwise credited): Claire Shaeffer and Sarah Benson
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Shaeffer, Claire B.
[Fabric sewing guide]
Claire Shaeffer's fabric sewing guide / by Claire Shaeffer. Rev. ed.
p. cm.
ISBN 978-0-89689-536-2 (pbk. : alk. paper)
eISBN 13: 978-1-4402-2112-5
1. Textile fabrics. 2. Dressmaking. 3. Sewing.
I. Title.
TT557.S53 2008
646.40028 dc22
2008017158
The following registered trademark terms and companies appear in this publication
A.C.E., Acrilan, Agilon, Airloft , Alaskine, Alcantara, Anso, Antron, Aqua Shell, Aqua Shell, Aquator, Armo Wool, Armo Rite, Arnel, Avisco XL, Avlin, Avril, Avron, Avsorb, Ban-Lon, Barge cement, Barge glue, Beau-Grip, Bernina, Bernina Aurora 440, Bi-Loft , Bio Fresh, Biz, Blue C, Borgana, Bully Lock, Byrd Cloth, Cadon, Caprolan, Captiva, Caressa, Casuwool, Celanese, Celebrate, Chinella, Chromespun, Citifleece, Cleerspan, Clover tire thread, Coloray, Comfort Fiber, ComFortrel XP, Com-Fortrel, Comiso, Comuloft , Cool Wool, CoolMax, Cordura, Core-Lock, Courcel, Courtek Macrylic, Creora, Creslan, C-Thru Ruler, Dacron, Dan-Press, Dantwill, Darleen, Darlexx Superskin, Darlexx, Dorlastan, Dow XLA, Drima, Drizzle Cloth, Dryline, Dura Spun, Du-Rel, Du-rene , Durvil, Dynel, Ecofil, Eco-Friendly Batting, Eco-Friendly Batting Blend, EcoSpun, Ecsaine, Eloquent Luster, Eloquent Touch, Encron, Enka viscose, Enkacrepe, Enkair, Enkalure, Enkasheer, Entrant, ESP, Espa, Essera, Estron, Eucalan Woolwash, EZ Stitch-Thru, Facile, Fairtex, Fantastik, Fibermet, Fi-lana, Fine Fuse, Formula 409, Fortisan, Fortrel MicroSpun, Fortrel, Foxfibre, Furelle, Fusi-Knit, Glore-Valcana, Glospan, Golden Glow, Golden Touch, Gore-Tex, Gore-Tex, Hang Loose, Harris Tweed, Heat'n Bond, Helanca, Herculon, Hi-Tech Supplex , HollofilII, Hump Jumper, Hydrofil, Ingeo, Interspan, JetSpun, Jean-a-ma-jigs, Jiffy Fuse, Kevlar, Kinderfleece, K-Kote Plus, Knit Fuze, Kodaire, Kodalite, Kodel, Kodofill, Lamous, Lastex, Lenzing Lyocell, Lenzing Modal, Lethasuede, Lifa, Lorette, Lurelon, Lurex, Lustra, Lycra, Marimekko, Matte Touch, Maxi-Lock, Metalastic, Metlon, Metroflock, Metrolene, Metrosene Plus, Mettler Poly Sheen, Micro Modal, Microft , Micromattique MX, Microsoft, Microsupplex, MicroSupreme, Microtherm, Milium, MiniMicro, Mitin, Mylar, Mystique, Natural Luster, NatureTex, Naugahyde, Needle Glide, No Shock, Nomelle, Nomex , Norae, Nordic Fleece, Nupron, Opelon, Orlon, Palm Beach, Pa-Qel, Pellon, Pil-Trol, Plyloc, Polarfleece, Polarguard, PolarLite, Polar-Plus, Polartec, Polartec Power Dry, Polartec Power Shield, Polartec, Power Stretch, Posder Dry, Prima, Qiana, Qiviut, Quallofil, Quick Knit, Quick Liner, Remember, Retayne, Revere, ReviveX, Rexe, Rib-It, Savina DPR, Savina, Savina DPR, Scotchgard, Seam Sure, Seams Great, SEF, Sensuede, Sensura, Sesua, Sewers' Aid, Shanton, Shareen, Shimmereen, Slinky, Sofrina, Soft Skin, Soft Touch, Soft alon, So-Lara, SolarKnit, Solarweave, Sorbit, Spandaven, Spandura, Spanzelle, Stitch Witchery, StretchAire, Strialine, Stunner, Sulky, Sunbrella, SunRepel, Superloft , Superwash, Supplex, T.E.N., Tackle Twill, Tactel Micro, Tactel, Tactel Micro, Tanera, Taslan, Teflon, Teklan, Tencel, Terylene, Thermax, Thermolite, Thermolite, Thinsulate, Thinsulate Lite Loft, ThinTech, Trevira , Tuftex, Turtle Fur, Type 420, Tyvek, Ultra Touch, Ultraglow, Ultraleather, Ultrasuede, Ultrex, Ultron, Velcro, VelvaBoard, Verel, Versatech , Vincel, Vyrene, WeatherBloc, Whisper Weft , Windbloc, Wind Pro, Wonder-Under, Xena, Yukon Fleece, Zankara, Zantrel, Zefran, Zeftron, Zirpro, Zitkrome
I know I am obsessed.
Since I have accepted my obsession and acknowledged that I like collecting fabrics almost as much as I like sewing them, I'm very well adjusted. After all, everyone collects something (recipes, coins, stamps, dolls, wine, guns, woodworking equipment, records, china figurines, records, videos) or has a hobby to enjoy in his or her leisure hours, so it's all right for me to collect fabrics.
Unlike most collections, the only constant in mine is change. I am an avid sewer, and unlike many fabric collectors, I have the confidence to cut or sew any fabric. Long ago, I decided to discard fabrics that no longer meet my standards, are the wrong color, or make me feel guilty. I don't have room for them to clutter my space and life.
For me, sewing fulfills both the desire to make something creative and to show it off, and part of my joy is taking a risk to achieve the unexpected and conquer the unknown. I love to experiment, try new techniques, fine-tune old methods, and combine fabrics and designs innovatively.
Most of my results have been successful, and some have been stunning creations beyond my wildest expectations. When I have the occasional failure, I remind myself that professionals have them, too, and it really is no worse than burning the brownies.
This book is the only comprehensive sewing reference that focuses on fabrics. It began several decades ago when I first taught Sewing Special Fabrics at the College of the Desert in Palm Desert, California. There was no book that came close to being a text-book. As I researched my subject, I realized that, in addition to the wealth of material on special fabrics scattered in a variety of different sources, a great deal of information about traditional fabrics was no longer available, some of the information provided by the home-sewing industry was incorrect, and many of the techniques I had learned as a professional had never been put into print. So the project mushroomed into a very large book that includes techniques for sewing all types of fabrics. The information is based on my experiences as an educator and professional home sewer; interviews with designers, experts, and educators in the home-sewing and fashion industries; visits to factories and designer workrooms; research in consumer and trade publications; research in the costume collections at the Victoria and Albert Museum, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fashion Institute of Technology, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, Phoenix Art Museum, and the Museum of the City of New York; countless snoop-shopping expeditions to examine ready-to-wear in all price ranges; and reexamining the garments in my own personal collection. The Second Edition has been revised extensively to incorporate new fabrics, fibers, design ideas, and techniques. It continues to be the most comprehensive reference available and includes 300 diagrams and 248 color photographs.