Sarah Woods - The 50 Greatest Road Trips

GREATEST

ROAD TRIPS

OF THE WORLD

Also available

The 50 Greatest Train Journeys of the World

The 50 Greatest Rugby Union Players of All Time

The 50 Most Influential Britons of the Last 100 Years

The 50 Greatest Walks of the World

Geoff Hursts Greats: Englands 1966 Hero Selects His Finest Ever Footballers

David Gowers Greatest Half-Century

GREATEST

ROAD TRIPS

OF THE WORLD

SARAH WOODS

Published in the UK in 2016 by

Icon Books Ltd, Omnibus Business Centre,

3941 North Road, London N7 9DP

email:

www.iconbooks.com

Sold in the UK, Europe and Asia

by Faber & Faber Ltd, Bloomsbury House,

7477 Great Russell Street,

London WC1B 3DA or their agents

Distributed in the UK, Europe and Asia

by Grantham Book Services, Trent Road,

Grantham NG31 7XQ

Distributed in Australia and New Zealand

by Allen & Unwin Pty Ltd,

PO Box 8500, 83 Alexander Street,

Crows Nest, NSW 2065

Distributed in South Africa by

Jonathan Ball, Office B4, The District,

41 Sir Lowry Road, Woodstock 7925

Distributed in India by Penguin Books India,

7th Floor, Infinity Tower C, DLF Cyber City,

Gurgaon 122002, Haryana

Distributed in Canada by Publishers Group Canada,

76 Stafford Street, Unit 300, Toronto, Ontario M6J 2S1

Distributed in the USA by Publishers Group West,

1700 Fourth Street, Berkeley, CA 94710

ISBN: 978-178578-096-7

Text copyright 2016 Sarah Woods

The author has asserted her moral rights.

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any means, without prior permission in writing from the publisher.

Images see individual pictures

Typeset and designed by Simmons Pugh

Printed and bound in the UK by Clays Ltd, St Ives plc

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

T riple-award-winning travel writer Sarah Woods is a veteran of road-tripping, having driven the iconic 19,000-mile route from North America to South Americas tip, completed several dusty voyages in the Australian outback and scaled towering Saharan sand dunes in a 4x4. Sarah has won the prestigious British Guild of Travel Writers Travel Guide Writer of the Year award and has been the recipient of the Kenneth Westcott Jones Award twice for thrilling road-trip articles. As a travel presenter on British daytime TV Sarah won the PSA prize for reportage in 2012.

INTRODUCTION

T here is something utterly seductive about the prospect of a road trip. My senses start to tingle at the very thought of hitting the open road, from the preparations and packing up of the car to the unfurling of the map to scrutinise the route and the anticipation of firing up the motor.

Road trips neednt always be long but they should always be scenic in a way that allows the journey to slowly unfold. As the landscape reveals itself and the miles slip magically by, I often feel as if it is the road that is moving not me and my vehicle. From the drivers seat I have felt every season on my skin through my open window: the warm showers of South Americas wet season on the Pan American Highway (see page 225); the bone-chilling cold of Canadas ice fields (see page 189); the deep, rich gold-leafed hues of autumn woodlands along stretches of Tasmania (see page 139); and the stifling airless heat of the desert (see page 163).

Of course, not all road trips are effortless far from it but even the most gruelling, wheel-wrenching, gear-crunching slogs hold a special place in my heart. I have learned to view mechanical failures, cavernous potholes and navigational mishaps as part of the entertainment. Wildlife however big, fierce and reluctant to move is always exciting company.

As a veteran of unmaintained, roughshod routes I am even tolerant of roadworks and feel any repair works should be welcomed even those that are poorly timed. My biggest gripe? Gridlocked traffic: the bumper-to-bumper crocodile of cars that is impossible to flee. In The 50 Greatest Road Trips of the World I have included only a smattering of routes in which this type of congestion is possible and all are worth the drive for their glorious hairpin bends and heart-lifting views nonetheless.

Whether you drive for the thrill or for the peace, for the rush or for the space and the thinking time, or simply to get there, this book offers an enticing trip for you all. Settle back and enjoy the ride.

THE 50 GREATEST ROAD TRIPS

UNITED KINGDOM and IRELAND

PEMBROKESHIRE COASTAL ROUTE, WALES

With over 240 gleaming beaches and a jewel-coloured sea that sends poets into raptures, the secret coves and rugged bays of the Pembrokeshire coast have a knack for capturing hearts and minds. Designated as Britains only coastal national park in 1952, Pembrokeshire has been rated by the USAs National Geographic Traveler magazine as one of the worlds top-two coastal destinations. Wild, maritime landscapes have always been a special feature of the 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path, opened in 1970, but since 2012 they are better than ever as part of the 870-mile Wales Coast Path. No other country has created a public footpath that traces its entire coastline. Pembrokeshires outstanding views across where land, sea and sky meet are enough to make the heart skip. No wonder visitors like me keep returning, year after year.

Road-tripping the Pembrokeshire coastline is to skirt the weather-worn cliffs with one eye on the weather and a neoprene wetsuit, sea shoes and a towel in the car boot. Through the windscreen of my elderly VW Beetle (named Ringo), the views are magical and easily absorbed at a modest 30 miles an hour.

Tucked away in the south-west corner of Wales, Pembrokeshire borders Carmarthenshire to the east and Ceredigion to the north-east. Every part of its coastline is a heaven for swimmers, beachcombers, wildlife-watchers, outdoor adventurers and walkers more than 620 miles of public footpaths and bridleways riddle the spectacular coastal scenery around Pembrokeshires main towns. Rolling green pasture, woodlands carpeted with bluebells and hedgerows bursting with bright yellow gorse. Meadows scattered with flitting butterflies; frolicking dolphins in the sea. Wheeling seabirds screech above the ragged cliffs where seals snooze in the sun. Wild garlic, campion, harebells and cowslips fringe pastoral countryside in a land of constantly changing beauty backdropped by the sea. Few other counties in the UK have anywhere near as many Blue Flag, Seaside and Green Coast awards as Pembrokeshire with so many wonderful beaches to choose from, the dilemma is where to start.

Photo: Jonesofcam

Driving around the Pembrokeshire coast is a true delight. The road follows cliff-top routes that hug the shore, where seabirds, seals, porpoises, dolphins and whales thrive. Join the route along the coastal waters by taking the A487 south from Newport it heads through the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park and en route towards St Davids passes long salt-water creeks dotted with boats, rock pools and broad curves of golden sand, cave-riddled cliffs and hidden sandy coves and rolling countryside warmed by a milky sun.