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Breakfast
Fresh Ricotta, Butter, and Milk Jam
Dan Barber
Blue Hill Farm, my familys dairy farm in the Berkshires and our restaurants namesake, is a 100 percent grass-fed dairy operation, so dairy has always played a big role on the Blue Hill menu. With access to the most delicious fresh milk, we began to experiment with its many possible incarnations: fresh ricotta, butter, and milk jam. Theyre far less intimidating to make than you might thinkand now is the perfect time to give it a try. If you can, support your local grass-fed dairy farmer. Youll find that the flavor of their milk blows anything from the grocery store out of the water.
Fresh Ricotta Cheese
Makes about 1 cup
1 quart whole milk, not ultra-high temperature (UHT) pasteurized
quart buttermilk
Pinch of salt, to serve
In a large saucepan with a thermometer clipped to the side, combine the milk and buttermilk and place over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula. When the temperature reaches about 185F, after about 20 minutes, curds will begin to form, separating from the whey. Continue to cook for another couple of minutes, stirring gently. Remove the pot from the heat and allow to stand for about 10 minutes.
Line a strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a medium bowl. Gently ladle the cheese curds into the strainer and allow the curds to drain for 20 to 25 minutes, depending on how thick you want the ricotta to be.
Use the ricotta immediately, sprinkled with a little salt, or cover and refrigerate for about 4 days.
Butter
Makes about cup
1 cup heavy cream, not ultra-high temperature (UHT) pasteurized
Coarse salt, to taste
In the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, beat the heavy cream at high speed until you achieve the consistency of whipped cream, 2 to 3 minutes.
Continue to beat the cream, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally with a rubber spatula. After about 2 minutes, the cream will slowly begin to turn a light yellowish color and take on a slightly granular appearance. After another 2 minutes, when you start to see a watery liquid separate from the mass of yellowish butter solids, stop the mixer.
Transfer the mixture to a fine mesh sieve set over a bowl and press to squeeze out as much liquid as possible from the mass of butter.
Transfer the butter to a bowl, season lightly with coarse salt, and knead to combine. Store the butter in an airtight container in the refrigerator for about 1 week, or freeze for several months.
Milk Jam
Makes about 1 cups
1 quart whole milk
1 (15 ounce) can condensed milk
cup corn syrup
1 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise and scraped
In a large stockpot, combine the milk, condensed milk, corn syrup, and vanilla pod and seeds. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer, about 5 minutes.
Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook for about 45 minutes, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pot with a rubber spatula to prevent sticking, until the mixture has turned a light caramel color. Remove the pot from the heat and discard the vanilla pod.
Use an immersion blender (or carefully transfer the mixture to a regular blender) to puree the milk jam until smooth. Pass the milk jam through a fine mesh sieve and allow to cool. Use immediately on toast, over ice cream, or in coffee, or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Dan Barber is the author of The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food (Penguin Press, 2014).
My Perfect Breakfast
Alison Roman
Serves 1
This is a more than necessary elaborate breakfast, but thats what makes it perfect. This is not an everyday affair; its a special occasion affair, when I am not running late for something or too hungover to function. The ingredient list is absurdof course, nobody is going to make this whole thing, but thats not really the point here. Make the whole thing to the letter or use it as inspiration for your very own version of a perfect breakfast.
6 large eggs (youre only using one, but may as well make a few)
1 small or large cucumber, thinly sliced
1 large radish or 1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lemon, halved for squeezing
Peppery salad greens, like arugula
Herbs, like chopped chives, dill, or parsley
1 thin piece of Danish rye bread or other seedy, dense bread, well toasted (like, very well toasted; you can also use Wasa crackers)
Softened, spreadable butter
A few good anchovies, a little smoked trout, or gravlax
A little bit of aged Cheddar or Gouda, sliced (or a spoonful of cottage cheese, full fat)
Crushed red pepper flakes
Black coffee
Ginger kombucha
Sparkling water with lemon
Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Gently lower the eggs into the pot and boil for 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to a medium bowl. Run cold water over them for a minute or two to slow the cooking (I dont think you need an ice bath for this). Peel one egg and set the rest aside in your fridge so you can have jammy eggs any time you want.
Toss the cucumber and radish together in a medium bowl and season with salt, pepper, and a good squeeze of lemon. Add the greens and most of the herbs, toss toss toss, and season with more salt, pepper, and lemon. (I dont think this needs olive oil, but you can drizzle a little bit if you want.)
Find your favorite bowl (mine is larger than necessary and wider than it is tall) and place your dressed vegetables and greens on one side. Spread the butter (lots of it) onto your very well (almost burnt) piece of bread and sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Put a few anchovies or other smoked fish on top. Set it almost vertically in the bowl. Put the little slices of cheese next to it (or a spoonful of cottage cheese). Halve your egg and nestle it into the greens, then sprinkle it with salt and crushed red pepper flakes. Scatter with the remaining herbs.
Eat your breakfast in bites and pieces, either on the toast or not. Drink the coffee you made over an hour ago and wish it were hotter but do not reheat. Open the kombucha, take a sip, and forget about it for the rest of the morning. Drink all of the fizzy water with lemon. Finish the breakfast, and wash your bowl immediately. An hour or so later, eat another piece of cheese or egg sprinkled with salt. Find your kombucha and wish you had refrigerated it.
Alison Roman is the author of two books, including Nothing Fancy: Unfussy Food for Having People Over (Clarkson Potter, 2019).
Stuffed Bagel Balls
Gina Homolka
Serves 8
My husband, Tommy, is obsessed with Bantam Bagel balls stuffed with cream cheese! But since theyre often sold out when we try to buy them at our neighborhood Starbucks or in the frozen aisle of the supermarket, I was determined to make them at home for him. We usually eat half on a Sunday morning or for a special occasion, like his birthday, and freeze the rest in a ziptop bag for up to three monthsthey reheat well and taste like theyre fresh out of the oven. Just pop them in the microwave for a few seconds until they are heated through and soft.
You can get super creative with the cream cheese filling and toppings! Try adding chopped scallions to the cream cheese and top with dried onion, or add chopped lox to the cream cheese and top with sesame seeds. For a sweeter option, add chopped raisins and cinnamon to the cream cheese and top with cinnamon and sugar.