Taryn Plumb - Maine Off the Beaten Path®: Discover Your Fun

Taryn Plumb is a freelance writer who has also authored Haunted Boston: Famous Phantoms, Sinister Sites, and Lingering Legends, and Haunted Maine Lighthouses, both by Globe Pequot Press. She enjoys exploring her home state whenever she canand discovering hidden gems and off-beat places.

No one person can know all the locales off the beaten path, so this book wouldnt have been possible without the help of dozens of people offering tips and feedback (and sometimes sending the writer on wild goose chases, but those can be fun, too). Thanks to friends, family, locals, editors, and many an old-time Mainer for their input and advice. Particularly of note are the dedicated staff members and volunteers at the states numerous museums, historical attractions, historical and preservation societies, tourism organizations, and chambers of commerce. And dont believe the stereotype of the stodgy and off-putting Mainerthey are a proud and often reserved bunch, but they are among the most hospitable youll find anywhere.

While you could look for a greater range of terrain and regional character than youll find in southern Maine, youd be hard pressed to find it. Southern Maine has everything: From small coastal harbors and beaches, to mountains and woods. It is the bucolic quiet of the country and the states most populous and bustling city wrapped up in one. And, as is the case with much of the state, the bulk of the population is clustered along the coast. It is here where European ships first deposited early settlers, and, later, where highway construction made it most convenient to live. The main arteriessuch as US 1 and the turnpikerun parallel to the shoreline, creating a broad transportation corridor with links to Boston and southward. By contrast, traveling east to west (or vice versa) can sometimes present more of a challenge (Maine, after all, just wouldnt be Maine without its windy, bumpy and often heavily frost-heaved secondary and back roads).

Historical attractions are a chief draw of the southern regionthose who delight in the quiet serenity of early homesteads and the cluttered comfort of antiques stores will find contentment here. Likewise, this is prime beach territory; in the warmer months, locals and tourists alike congregate to its miles of sandy shorefront. With or without the crowds, its a great place to walk, relax and of course swimbut keep in mind that the ocean temperature doesnt get much warmer than 60 degrees on even the balmiest of days.

did you know?

Despite its size, Maine has one of the slowest population growth rates in the country. Some would say this adds to its charm.

Some would argue that York County should be entirely eliminated from this guide. After all, it is one of the states greatest tourist hamlets (due largely to its southernmost nature and easily-accessible diversity of terrain). Few places here remain undiscovered by visitors, and many cater exclusively to tourists (one of Maines most significant trades). Due to that fact, as well as its large population of summer-only residents, some Mainers disavow the county altogether (if good-naturedly). In fact, one prominent Maine newspaper once quipped that the state should just gift York County to New Hampshire in exchange for toll-free travel on the Granite States turnpike. Maine never did act on this unsolicited advice, but the idea hits upon the popular notion that York County has been engulfed by the megalopolis that spreads north from the cultural and economic powerhouse of Boston.

Still, York County is a delightful spot with plenty to offer (particularly if you can avoid the bustle, clatter, and gridlock of US 1). The region has a strong historical tradition with roots tracing to the 17th and 18th centuries and many attractions reflecting this early history. Visitors might also be surprised to find that, just driving a tad bit inland, the townships and forests are as peaceful, inviting and remote as any to be found in the state.

Kittery and Vicinity

If youre driving north, your first encounter with Maine will be Kittery, the states oldest town located just over the I-95 bridge after Portsmouth, New Hampshire. Veer off at exit 3 if youve got an urge to spend some money. A growing number of factory outlets cluster along both sides of US 1, creating a sort of Scylla and Charybdis of consumer culture. Dozens of stores hawk brand-name merchandise ranging from Coach to Calvin Klein, Movado to Swarovski. Bostonians and many others seeking out a bargain (or two or three) throng here all year long, which often results in gridlock and lots of frustration (not to mention many a beeping horn) along this busy stretch of road. And if youre trying to take a left? Be prepared for a long wait. If youd prefer outlet shopping on foot in a village setting, stay on the highway and head for Freeport, Maines other well-known outlet destination. Youll come upon it about an hour north of Kittery.

POPULAR ATTRACTIONS

Hamilton House, Salmon Falls River

Museums of Old York buildings and the Old Burying Ground, York

Perkins Cove, Ogunquit

Ogunquit Museum of American Art, Ogunquit

Seashore Trolley Museum, north of Kennebunkport

Biddeford Pool

The inland town of Cornish

Eastern Promenade Trail, Portland

Sabbathday Lake Shaker Community, New Gloucester region

One of the shops that launched the Kittery retail boom is the eponymous Kittery Trading Post, and its worth a visit even if youre not partial to shopping. It is Maine in a nutshell, filled with rugged merchandise and all manner of hunting, fishing, camping, and outdoor gear. Youll find it on US 1 on your left as you head north past the chain stores and strip malls. Its open daily; call (888) 587-6246 or (207) 439-2700 (local) for hours and information or visit kitterytradingpost.com.

In contrast to the outlet area, Kitterys small downtown (referred to as Kittery Foreside) has a sleepy, backyard feel, seemingly overlooked by both travelers and time. Dominating the town is the venerable Portsmouth Naval Shipyard. It was established on Dennetts Island in 1806 as the Navys first yard, then in 1866, expanded to neighboring Seavey Island (the names are now interchangeable, depending on who youre talking to). The main entrance is in the middle of Kittery, just beyond the Rice Library, a stately manse of elaborate Victorian brickwork.

Kitterys rich naval and shipbuilding heritage comes alive in the Kittery Historical and Naval Museum. It features a large collection of shipbuilding tools, ship models, lighthouse artifacts and examples of the age-old art of scrimshaw. There are also displays from bygone eras, a digital timeline of Kittery, as well as an authentic reproduction of a 17th-century garrison house, a fortified farmstead offering protection from raids by Native Americans during the Colonial days. The museum is open seasonally on Wed and Sat from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and on Sun from 1 to 4 p.m. Admission is $5 for adults and $3 for children. A family plan, which must include at least one child, is available for $10. Discounted rates are also available, including for AAA members. For more information call (207) 439-3080 or visit kitterymuseum.com. Be sure to check out the museums variety of special events, including historical presentations and neighborhood block parties. To get there, drive north on I-95 and take exit 2 to ME 236. Follow the route south to the rotary, then take US 1 north. The museum is on the immediate right, next to Kittery Town Hall.