Photographs 2009 B. J. Lacasse
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Acknowledgments
Id like to give a very special thanks to all of the local farms and ranches that truly produce the finest ingredients anyone could ever ask for. For all of those who put in the backbreaking work and have dedicated their lives to growing and harvesting products with the highest standards of excellence and environmentally ethical standards, I thank each of you from the bottom of my heart. It is only with the finest ingredients that I can even begin to create Fine Texas Cuisine. The following Texas farms and ranches have all contributed to the success of Bonnells in one way or another:
Brazos Valley Cheese, Waco: Handmade all-natural cheeses; Broken Arrow Ranch, Ingram: Hill Country venison and antelope; Burgundy Pasture Beef, Grandview: Organic, grass-fed angus beef; Deborahs Farmstead Goat Cheese, Fort Worth: Handmade all-natural cheeses; Diamond H Ranch, Bandera: Texas gourmet quail; Dominion Farms, Denison: Free-range organic chicken, eggs, and pork; Frontier Meats, Fort Worth: Texas wild boar, ostrich, buffalo, and all-natural beef ; The Haute Goat Creamery, Lubbock: Handmade goat cheeses; Homestead Gristmill, Elm Mott: Stone ground grits; La Casa Verde, Weatherford: Organic hydroponic microgreens, specialty herbs, and tomatoes; Youngs Greenhouse, Charlie: Organic baby lettuces
Id like to thank chef Ed McOwen, a longtime friend, co-owner of Bonnells Restaurant, and one of the finest chefs in the country, for his participation and help, not only in developing this book, but for his selfless approach in helping create what we call Fine Texas Cuisine.
A special thanks to all of the dedicated staff at Bonnells, who work tirelessly day after day to keep our business on top. For those I affectionately call Lifers, who have been with me since day one: Thank you, Pedro, Reyna, Lilia, Maria, Ari, Pablo, and Sheila. Long live the opening team! Thank you, Andreas, for keeping the front of the house up to the standards of the food for the past three years and for your personal dedication to the service industry. Thanks to sous chefs Fletcher and Pedro for their long hours and commitment to nothing short of perfection every day, on every plate. I would also like to thank Jenevieve Croall, who keeps me organized and has worked just as hard as I have to make this book a reality.
And mostly I thank my wife, Melinda, for her understanding and patience as we ride this crazy rollercoaster of a life together. As they say, the only thing crazier than being a chef is being married to one. I can hardly wait until our daughter, Charlotte, is old enough to read this book!
Introduction
What is Fine Texas Cuisine?
When I opened my first restaurant, I named it Bonnells, Fine Texas Cuisine as a way of defining my own personal culinary style. The concept was somewhat misunderstood at first since fine dining and Texas havent always been synonymous. The confusion would go something like this:
The sign here says you serve Texas food, a patron would remark. |
Yes, sir, Id confidently reply. |
So is that Mexican, barbecue, or chicken-fried steaks? |
Well, the sign does say TEXAS, but it also says FINE CUISINE. |
My personal culinary style and interpretation of Texas food reflects my passion for fine dining and Texas-style cooking. Texas has traditionally been known more for comfortable and casual food than for white linen tablecloth fare. In recent years, however, Texas has influenced the food scene of the entire nation with inventive and creative strides in the fine-dining arena. I chose the words Fine Texas Cuisine to describe my restaurant, because it defines exactly what we strive to provide. Im passionate about fine cuisine, and Im passionate about Texas heritage and Texas ingredients.
I began the concept for Bonnells by researching Texas farms and ranches to find the highest quality and most unique ingredients. It wouldnt make sense to serve Georgia peaches when my neighboring county throws an annual festival dedicated to the peach-season harvest. I prefer the Parker County peaches that get to my door after only one trip in one truck to any produce sent via air, boat, or interstate. Its that intimate relationship with local food products that begins to truly define fine Texas cuisine.
Once the freshest farm ingredients are obtained in their peak of ripeness and freshness, my design work in the kitchen begins. My seasonings, flavors, and techniques come from those places Im proud to call neighbors in a culinary sense. From our neighbors to the south, I borrow the Tex-Mex traditions that I grew up on, along with a few authentic Mexican tricks of the trade thrown in for good measure. From our easterly neighbors (past Dallas, of course), there will always be a special place in my heart for the New Orleans Creole flare that I picked up while working for the Brennan family in the French Quarter. I tend to bring a lot of southwestern ingredients into my kitchen as well, including various dried chiles and spice combinations. By borrowing a little inspiration from great neighbors, then applying it to farm-fresh ingredients that are Texas born and Texas bred, Ive created my own brand of what customers now understand completely as Fine Texas Cuisine.
Appetizers
Without a doubt, appetizers are my favorite category on any menu, including the one in my own restaurant. When I arrive at any type of gathering, from a birthday party to a wedding, I can pretty much tell how the evenings going to go by the end of the first round of appetizers. Its the zone where chefs and hosts love to show off just a little bit. Anyone throwing a dinner party really sets the mood for the night with that first hors doeuvre tray or cocktail platter.
In the restaurant, customers seem to seek out the appetizers as a way to sample the chefs talent without the total commitment of choosing a full-size entre. The most exciting thing about appetizers for a chef is the complete lack of rules, which leaves all options open. They dont have to have a vegetable, starch, sauce, or garnish. Appetizers are not supposed to fill someone up, although its more than acceptable if they come close. With just a little tweaking, any dish that you can dream up can be shrunk down and fancied up to be the coolest, trendiest, most fashionable little canap. On the appetizer page, we get the freedom to create one-biters, mini-size entres, shooters, or exotic combinations with no creative limits. I recently cooked a dinner at the James Beard House in New York City for some of the most discerning palates in the nation, and I started them off with barbecued pork sandwiches, miniaturized to fashionable bite-size cocktail portions, and rabbit loin corndogs. Carnival food can be elevated into fine dining, and sophisticated cuisine can become casual nuggets of comfort food when served properly as appetizers.